Short story. In order to change rear axle's wheel stud(s) the whole axle shaft must be pulled out.

Long story. [Father's 2015 reg cab short bed truck] previous owner / unknown tire shop used anti seize and stretched lug studs. Ruined lug nuts. Aluminum wheels' lug holes are damaged too. ALL LUG NUTS WERE RE-TORQUED AND WHEELS ARE NOT TIGHT. I tried to replace a rear stud and this truck's rear axle doesn't match videos on YouTube or my 2012. NO DRUM STLYE BRAKE SHOES as parking brake. Not enough room to get new ones in. Not able with caliper bracket removed. The brake's dust cover is a single piece and is trapped behind axle shaft's abs ring.

So it's going to the shop and getting rear 12 lugs replaced. Guessing they'll open up differential, pull C clips to remove axle shaft and use a press to change studs.

Meanwhile I'll be deep in classified hunting for Steel wheels for my ol mans work truck.

 

Are you sure there is not a hole somewhere in the dust cover to push a stud through? Can you drill one from behind?

 

Drilling or cutting dust shield would work. My father and I weren't willing to hack his 75k mile truck up. Also to that you'd never drive it in with hammer. More than likely use an impact socket as a spacer and twist a lug nut on threads to seat the stud in fully. Maybe a C clamp method?

I'll post what an estimate or quote he gets today. A rear differential service isnt a bad thing, just an un foreseen additional cost. After 6 weeks of owning.

 

I replaced studs on several vehicles. They have all been the same. No need for a hammer or impact gun to seat the stud. There are splines on the stud that will prevent the stud from turning. The stud will slide in up to the splines and provide enough resistance for you to use a lug nut and a socket to hand tighten the stud in the rest of the way. Just be gentle. You may need a spacer to fully seat it before it bottoms out on the stud. Once you get them started the wheel can be your spacer.

 

I had to replace a wheel stud on my wife's Edge. There's a dimple in the hub. Line the stud up with the dimple, dimple the heat shield and drive the broken stud out. Push the new stud in from the back. I used a spacer over the lug and a lug nut to pull the stud into place.

 

Gearhead,

If you remember this thread, your Dad's misfortune is a good example of an answer to my question of using 'anti-seize' and Pioneer's adept reply posted here:

https://www.f150forum.com/f118/swoll...3/#post6582083

The results of lubricating lug nuts is quite clear and it's a shame your Dad's truck became an example of why not to do this through no fault of his own.

I didn't know this and many others here may not know this either. Keep us posted plz?

 

I'll keep this updated. I know never to use any lube. No Wd40 ect. Brake cleaner and heavy plastic or brass brush to remove rust from lug studs.

 

Growing up in the east with road salt, my dad taught me how grease on the studs prevented future issues. These were on 70's and 80's cars with hub caps over an otherwise exposed stud and the good 'ole small lug nuts. Just a light smear of grease is what we used.

I also don't think I've ever seen a torque wrench used on a lug nut during that time period.

In addition to grease on the studs, I was also taught to not over tighten a greased thread. So I was taught preventative maintenance, but was also taught what consequences it has in terms of torque values.

 

IIRC the recommendation is to reduce the torque value by 10% if applying lube to the threads.

 

Thinking about this some more. On the rear axle, it should be simple enough to pound the studs out without removing the axle. Put an old nut or two on the stud so that you don't mushroom it and make the job more difficult. There should be more than enough room to put the studs in from the rear. Use a stud installer or spacer and a lug nut to pull the stud in until it's fully seated. No reason to use a press to install them.