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Be sure to torque the rear 5100s with the truck on the ground, with the rear suspension at normal ride height.
If you torqued the fasteners to spec with the axle hanging in the air, just don't off-road the thing or have ten people jumping up and down in the bed until you loosen the fasteners, then put the truck on the ground, then torque the fasteners with the rear suspension at normal ride height.
Easy peasey.
May I ask why? Im installing Fox 2.0's this weekend and have watched at least 10 videos from shops such as CJ off road, american trucks, stage 3, and so forth and they all torque everything with the vehicle up on a lift.
Also, would this apply to all the suspension components on the front? Cant torque some of the stuff with the wheel on.
More on the blackout front. Installed smoke third brake light. Cheap $16 solution to get the look I wanted, matching the license plate lights. Bed light is pretty useless, but since I have a hard tonneau, it's a non issue. After I installed, it rained, which was nice, as I was able to see how it performed in the rain. No leaks, at least that I can see at this point.
Nice work, but without an explanation I thought you were going to pull a fifth wheel with it. BTW, you aren't the only one who over-engineers! Lots of thought in that plan.
Originally Posted by Flamingtaco
Ram ***** on my BuiltRite Dash Mount. Big one for my tablet, one to the right for a plate that will hold the RADAR/LASER detector and a dash cam, one to the left for a boost gauge.
And three 12V ports, so everything gets power. I wanted to push the ports forward so I can plug/unplug cords, but as far back as they are, I still was hitting one of the stupidly long bolts underneath that are for attaching something I don't have (nav?). I fixed that by rotating a plug, but blew through three fuses before I fixed the issue because I wasn't sure the fuses were blowing. $20 later, I have replaced the fuses, and have a spare. Yes, they are stupidly expensive. They are cheaper at the dealership than autozone, who only had one fuse.
One can easily tap the dash power port for power, but getting that plate out of the dash is a bit of a pain. Gotta squeeze pretty hard at two locations on either side to pop it out.
This concludes my renovations for this month. Tomorrow I clean and load up the truck for a week at Acadia.
The price is showing as $18, free shipping. I think I watched this in My eBay over the period of a few weeks or so and they dropped the price a few bucks and that's when I purchased it. This is for trucks that did NOT come with factory LED third brake lights. Again, none of the LEDs are as bright as the picture on the webpage would lead you to believe. So, please be aware of that. Easy install, but you'll have to remove the plug from where it is clipped into place in order to access the connection. I didn't re-attach the clip to its original position, without any consequences. You'll see where the clip is at once you remove the factory light housing. Also, my housing had a light scuff on it, but not worth sending back for a $16 solution. You couldn't see it unless I pointed it out to you, once installed.
Thanks. Took about 6.5 hours. $50 for the stripe kit. Not clear how long they will last. There are not as many choices for stripes on the F-150 as there are for my Mustang.
Thanks. Took about 6.5 hours. $50 for the stripe kit. Not clear how long they will last. There are not as many choices for stripes on the F-150 as there are for my Mustang.
Rob
I like the blue stripes! I have had mine for 2 years and they still look good.
May I ask why? Im installing Fox 2.0's this weekend and have watched at least 10 videos from shops such as CJ off road, american trucks, stage 3, and so forth and they all torque everything with the vehicle up on a lift.
Also, would this apply to all the suspension components on the front? Cant torque some of the stuff with the wheel on.
The rear shock bushings, when tightened to the truck, are then under torsion everytime the axle moves in it's travel. This twists the rubber of the bushing itself. Other suspension pieces where this will matter are control arm bushings.
The reason Bilstein in it's Installation Instructions advises torquing the rear shock mount bolts with the truck on the ground is to center the bushing before it is torqued so that when the suspension is compressed further, the bushing will begin to twist one way, then when the axle falls, the bushing will be twisted the other way (when a bushing in this configuration is twisted too far it will tear, then begin to disintegrate).
But the experts on YouTube don't bother reading the Installation Instructions because, well, who knows.
When blowing apart the F150 front suspension to install a spring/shock unit, there's little to no need to mess with control arm bushing bolt torque; all we do is disassemble one or two ball joint studs (upper control arm and steering rack tie rod) from the steering knuckle, and the three top mount bolts. This is why the front suspension can be re-torqued in the air.
07-05-2019, 07:27 AM
