Trailer Jack - Rear Gate Interference
#1
Trailer Jack - Rear Gate Interference
I am having issues with the top of the trailer jack hitting the edge of the rear gate when lowered. I've been very careful using it but know it is just a matter of time till someone releases the gate and I end up with a broken tailgate.
I have the longest Class IV hitch I can find - DrawTite 40202 which is 11-1/4" from the ball hole to the hitch pin hole. (4" drop, 1-1/4" hole)
I've modified my trailer jack to shorten it as much as I can to keep it from hitting my 2010 but now it just does touch the black trim on the gate when lowered. I can't find a lower trailer jack and I can't cut it down anymore and still have it work.
When I fold the trailer jack handle over and out of the way, and lower the gate, the black vinyl trim that forms the top of the gate just touches the center of the handle. I need to move it back about 2" to have proper clearance.
The trailer uses a welded on ball receiver (coupler) which also locates the trailer jack. There is a center frame rail that butts to the jack so I can't move it back any.
Did find one Extra Long hitch but it downgrades to Class III (6,000 lbs) which I would prefer not to do. There's probably a safety factor that would make it OK but prefer not to tempt fate.
Has anyone else run into this? Any ideas on how to come up with more clearance?
Paul
I have the longest Class IV hitch I can find - DrawTite 40202 which is 11-1/4" from the ball hole to the hitch pin hole. (4" drop, 1-1/4" hole)
I've modified my trailer jack to shorten it as much as I can to keep it from hitting my 2010 but now it just does touch the black trim on the gate when lowered. I can't find a lower trailer jack and I can't cut it down anymore and still have it work.
When I fold the trailer jack handle over and out of the way, and lower the gate, the black vinyl trim that forms the top of the gate just touches the center of the handle. I need to move it back about 2" to have proper clearance.
The trailer uses a welded on ball receiver (coupler) which also locates the trailer jack. There is a center frame rail that butts to the jack so I can't move it back any.
Did find one Extra Long hitch but it downgrades to Class III (6,000 lbs) which I would prefer not to do. There's probably a safety factor that would make it OK but prefer not to tempt fate.
Has anyone else run into this? Any ideas on how to come up with more clearance?
Paul
#2
Member
I am having issues with the top of the trailer jack hitting the edge of the rear gate when lowered. I've been very careful using it but know it is just a matter of time till someone releases the gate and I end up with a broken tailgate.
I have the longest Class IV hitch I can find - DrawTite 40202 which is 11-1/4" from the ball hole to the hitch pin hole. (4" drop, 1-1/4" hole)
I've modified my trailer jack to shorten it as much as I can to keep it from hitting my 2010 but now it just does touch the black trim on the gate when lowered. I can't find a lower trailer jack and I can't cut it down anymore and still have it work.
When I fold the trailer jack handle over and out of the way, and lower the gate, the black vinyl trim that forms the top of the gate just touches the center of the handle. I need to move it back about 2" to have proper clearance.
The trailer uses a welded on ball receiver (coupler) which also locates the trailer jack. There is a center frame rail that butts to the jack so I can't move it back any.
Did find one Extra Long hitch but it downgrades to Class III (6,000 lbs) which I would prefer not to do. There's probably a safety factor that would make it OK but prefer not to tempt fate.
Has anyone else run into this? Any ideas on how to come up with more clearance?
Paul
I have the longest Class IV hitch I can find - DrawTite 40202 which is 11-1/4" from the ball hole to the hitch pin hole. (4" drop, 1-1/4" hole)
I've modified my trailer jack to shorten it as much as I can to keep it from hitting my 2010 but now it just does touch the black trim on the gate when lowered. I can't find a lower trailer jack and I can't cut it down anymore and still have it work.
When I fold the trailer jack handle over and out of the way, and lower the gate, the black vinyl trim that forms the top of the gate just touches the center of the handle. I need to move it back about 2" to have proper clearance.
The trailer uses a welded on ball receiver (coupler) which also locates the trailer jack. There is a center frame rail that butts to the jack so I can't move it back any.
Did find one Extra Long hitch but it downgrades to Class III (6,000 lbs) which I would prefer not to do. There's probably a safety factor that would make it OK but prefer not to tempt fate.
Has anyone else run into this? Any ideas on how to come up with more clearance?
Paul
#3
Get a 5th wheel, won't have that issue... the first time I hooked up my car trailer I checked that, now when I have a trailer connected I just don't open my tailgate. Not that big of a deal to me bit kinda makes me wish I had windoor's on my canopy, tho that would still be a pain.
#4
Senior Member
Show us pics of it.
#5
The solution for me was to remove the center A frame jack and install a side mounted jack a few inches further back on the trailer. This option may not work on some trailers but worked for mine.
#6
I order my trailers ( BIG TEX ) with an extended tung. usually an option on most trailers. But you should be able to relocate it without any issues.
Last edited by Trotter; 10-31-2016 at 07:38 AM.