Trailer Brake Controller Issues - Ford Disaster - Solved
04-21-2021, 05:38 AM
#41
Senior Member
I have a small aluminum trailer 6' x 10' that I tow my polaris ranger on. I took it to the trailer / camper trailer dealer and had electric brakes installed a week ago. So I've only used it from there to home 60 miles. I couldn't tell if the brakes were working or not. Very flustrating. I want to lock up the brakes and drag it. THERE I know the brakes work.
I'll read the owners manuel soon and see if I'm missing something.
I'll read the owners manuel soon and see if I'm missing something.
04-21-2021, 08:50 AM
#42
I have a small aluminum trailer 6' x 10' that I tow my polaris ranger on. I took it to the trailer / camper trailer dealer and had electric brakes installed a week ago. So I've only used it from there to home 60 miles. I couldn't tell if the brakes were working or not. Very flustrating. I want to lock up the brakes and drag it. THERE I know the brakes work.
I'll read the owners manuel soon and see if I'm missing something.
I'll read the owners manuel soon and see if I'm missing something.
Burnishing Brakes & Bedding Brake Pads | Wagner Brake
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MikeD134 (04-21-2021)
10-11-2022, 03:52 PM
#44
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Pendulum versus Electronic Brake Controllers
I have a 2020 F-150. It came from the factory with tow package but no TBC. I bought a TBC from Amazon that is meant as a replacement for the OE. Installed it and had dealer program the computer to see the module.
I purchased a tandem axle travel trailer (2017) with electric brakes. When I attempted to use the manual switch or adjust the gain, I got the same message indicating "no trailer". Aside from the brakes, all other hookups seem to be fine (lights etc.).
I installed the load equalizer as the OP described. While still parked I checked things out by using the manual slide and adjusting the gain. I still got the message. Choosing electric over hydraulic did not change this at all.
I measured the voltage going to the bundle of wires for the brakes and got 3v when pressing the brake pedal or sliding the manual switch. I'm assuming this should have been 12v. The resistance on the brake wiring is reading 1.6 ohm at the control box on the trailer. I tried to measure at the plug and the meter would not display anything. Not sure if this indicates anything specific.
I decided to take it for a spin to see what would happen. From 25 mph, when I got the slide on the TBC, it would come to a stop after about 75 yards or so. I had the computer setup for high brake effort and gain set at 10. When using only the trucks brake pedal, I would feel a jerk from the trailer just before coming to a complete stop. If I reacted to it by letting off of my brakes, it did not seem to re-engage after.
I'm concerned that the TBC is not functioning correctly, but not sure how to test that without buying the stock unit and swapping them.
Anyone have any ideas?
I purchased a tandem axle travel trailer (2017) with electric brakes. When I attempted to use the manual switch or adjust the gain, I got the same message indicating "no trailer". Aside from the brakes, all other hookups seem to be fine (lights etc.).
I installed the load equalizer as the OP described. While still parked I checked things out by using the manual slide and adjusting the gain. I still got the message. Choosing electric over hydraulic did not change this at all.
I measured the voltage going to the bundle of wires for the brakes and got 3v when pressing the brake pedal or sliding the manual switch. I'm assuming this should have been 12v. The resistance on the brake wiring is reading 1.6 ohm at the control box on the trailer. I tried to measure at the plug and the meter would not display anything. Not sure if this indicates anything specific.
I decided to take it for a spin to see what would happen. From 25 mph, when I got the slide on the TBC, it would come to a stop after about 75 yards or so. I had the computer setup for high brake effort and gain set at 10. When using only the trucks brake pedal, I would feel a jerk from the trailer just before coming to a complete stop. If I reacted to it by letting off of my brakes, it did not seem to re-engage after.
I'm concerned that the TBC is not functioning correctly, but not sure how to test that without buying the stock unit and swapping them.
Anyone have any ideas?
I think you have a pure electronic brake controller, meaning that it uses a timer to adjust the release and power the brakes receive while driving; they typically also have an 'aggressiveness' setting too where pendulum's only have braking power. I had one of these a Long time ago and got rid of it because of exactly what you're describing. I bought it because it was less expensive. A pendulum style has a sensor, used to be pendulum but could be accelerometers now, that would swing forward more or less depending how hard you were stopping. The harder you brake, the controller would apply that proportion to the brakes. One test would be to roll forward slowly and apply the brakes enough that the lights come on, depending on how aggressive your setting, you'll feel the trailer brakes apply after a certain speed and release below a certain speed.
02-12-2023, 02:18 AM
#45
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I know this is an older thread, but…. Is there a fuse that needs to be installed when adding the brake controller? The IPC shows connection to the trailer but the manual slide doesn’t do anything and the controller disconnects from the trailer. Brakes don’t work.
thanks, Clint
thanks, Clint