Anyone install the Yukon Duragrip YC F8.8-4-34T/L diff yet in their F150?

looking for info on how well it works and what was needed for the swap? I have a 3.55e

https://www.randysworldwide.com/prod...-f8-8-4-34t-l/

 

no experience with these units. looks like it still has clutch packs tho, and we know how well those don't hold up here I always told my parents to replace theirs with a Detroit locker, they're supposed to be maintenance free except for changing the gearcase oil. https://www.eaton.com/Eaton/Products...etroit-locker/

anyway, good luck with your project!

 

This a pretty good thread here read through it.
https://www.f150forum.com/f123/super...457580/index4/

 

There’s no TrueTrac for the 8.8

 

Here’s all the known info.

https://www.f150forum.com/f123/2015-...al-lsd-467291/

 

ah, didn't realize that. just looked at their catalog online, hasn't been updated for awhile. looked on summit racing they have some auburn units as well as the yukon listed, so another option to look at if the op is curious.

https://www.summitracing.com/search/...ntial-carriers

 

The Auburn doesn’t come in 34 spline for our axles.
There’s Torsen style diffs out as well...but those don’t take c-clips and won’t work.
Not to mention 8.8 carriers won’t work in place of the Super 8.8.
Again, all current info is in the thread I linked.

 

I watched the videos UNBROKEN linked up nicely.
The cause of the failure in the one video is due to plate wear.
When the friction plates wear the mesh between the side gears and the small pinions moves from the root of the tooth to the tip of the gear and yes when you really pour the power on you can break the teeth.
Robs performance video he never said what you are supposed to do is soak the friction plates in the friction modifier before install.
Other wise it is an excellent tutorial.
I'm not so convinced it is necessary to have those side gears cut down and modified for the clearance at a machine shop like Rob did.
I'd have to see one personally but I have the feeling Yukon gear is doing the same, just shaving off some where the c clip rests on the inside of the side gear.
F1scamp got it to work with shaving only .009" off the c clip.
That is pretty minor thickness and should be adequate.

 

I'm sure there's a reason... but any reason a c clip eliminator kit couldn't be used?

 

I haven’t seen anyone try yet. Not sure if the axle ends are the same where the ones from a Mustang will even work.