starting issue
On 4 occasions my 2016 F-150 5.0 with standard key has done nothing when the key is turned to start position, except the battery light comes on. After a few tries, it has started. To shop twice; nothing found. All were hot start attempts until the last one, which was after 3 days sitting. This last time, I held the key in start position hoping something would burn out, be diagnosed, and we could then repair it. Guess what? After holding there a bit, it suddenly started. Dealer/Ford Service does not have a clue. Anyone else with this issue?
Had this happen twice now on my 15 Lariat push button start.
First occasion:
Fob in cup holder. Foot on brake. Push button to start. Everything lit up like normal, but no crank. Tried again, no crank. Took fob, got out of the truck, shut door, remote start with fob and it cranked right over and started.
Second time:
Two days later. Attempted remote start from the kitchen with the second fob, (always leave a fob in the truck). Watching out the window, lights came on like normal but did not hear it crank. Looked at the fob and the green light was flashing quickly. Normally it would be solid green if start was successful, red if un-successful, but this time flashing green. Tried sequence again...no crank, flashing green light on fob. Went out and got in the truck. Foot on brake, push button, no crank. Everything else seemed normal, just no crank. Tried again and a warning came up on instrument cluster, "check charging system", so I checked battery voltage and it was at 12.2. Thought that was a bit low so I hooked up the charger and after about 5 min. got in and it started right up.
Took it in for diagnosis hoping it was just a weak battery but multiple load tests showed it was good. Tech spent a couple hours drilling into the modules and systems looking for a fault or code and nothing was found that would indicate any problems with the systems. We did find in the manual that the flashing green light on the fob was in response to the truck receiving the signal to start from the fob, but the fob was not sent back a signal from the truck confirming that the truck had taken action on the start command.
So, that was all about a week and a half ago, and it has not failed to start to date. No resolution was found for the no crank condition, so I'm just waiting for it to do it again, and stay "broke" so the problem can be diagnosed.
Still love the truck!
First occasion:
Fob in cup holder. Foot on brake. Push button to start. Everything lit up like normal, but no crank. Tried again, no crank. Took fob, got out of the truck, shut door, remote start with fob and it cranked right over and started.
Second time:
Two days later. Attempted remote start from the kitchen with the second fob, (always leave a fob in the truck). Watching out the window, lights came on like normal but did not hear it crank. Looked at the fob and the green light was flashing quickly. Normally it would be solid green if start was successful, red if un-successful, but this time flashing green. Tried sequence again...no crank, flashing green light on fob. Went out and got in the truck. Foot on brake, push button, no crank. Everything else seemed normal, just no crank. Tried again and a warning came up on instrument cluster, "check charging system", so I checked battery voltage and it was at 12.2. Thought that was a bit low so I hooked up the charger and after about 5 min. got in and it started right up.
Took it in for diagnosis hoping it was just a weak battery but multiple load tests showed it was good. Tech spent a couple hours drilling into the modules and systems looking for a fault or code and nothing was found that would indicate any problems with the systems. We did find in the manual that the flashing green light on the fob was in response to the truck receiving the signal to start from the fob, but the fob was not sent back a signal from the truck confirming that the truck had taken action on the start command.
So, that was all about a week and a half ago, and it has not failed to start to date. No resolution was found for the no crank condition, so I'm just waiting for it to do it again, and stay "broke" so the problem can be diagnosed.
Still love the truck!
Had this happen twice now on my 15 Lariat push button start.
First occasion:
Fob in cup holder. Foot on brake. Push button to start. Everything lit up like normal, but no crank. Tried again, no crank. Took fob, got out of the truck, shut door, remote start with fob and it cranked right over and started.
Second time:
Two days later. Attempted remote start from the kitchen with the second fob, (always leave a fob in the truck). Watching out the window, lights came on like normal but did not hear it crank. Looked at the fob and the green light was flashing quickly. Normally it would be solid green if start was successful, red if un-successful, but this time flashing green. Tried sequence again...no crank, flashing green light on fob. Went out and got in the truck. Foot on brake, push button, no crank. Everything else seemed normal, just no crank. Tried again and a warning came up on instrument cluster, "check charging system", so I checked battery voltage and it was at 12.2. Thought that was a bit low so I hooked up the charger and after about 5 min. got in and it started right up.
Took it in for diagnosis hoping it was just a weak battery but multiple load tests showed it was good. Tech spent a couple hours drilling into the modules and systems looking for a fault or code and nothing was found that would indicate any problems with the systems. We did find in the manual that the flashing green light on the fob was in response to the truck receiving the signal to start from the fob, but the fob was not sent back a signal from the truck confirming that the truck had taken action on the start command.
So, that was all about a week and a half ago, and it has not failed to start to date. No resolution was found for the no crank condition, so I'm just waiting for it to do it again, and stay "broke" so the problem can be diagnosed.
Still love the truck!
First occasion:
Fob in cup holder. Foot on brake. Push button to start. Everything lit up like normal, but no crank. Tried again, no crank. Took fob, got out of the truck, shut door, remote start with fob and it cranked right over and started.
Second time:
Two days later. Attempted remote start from the kitchen with the second fob, (always leave a fob in the truck). Watching out the window, lights came on like normal but did not hear it crank. Looked at the fob and the green light was flashing quickly. Normally it would be solid green if start was successful, red if un-successful, but this time flashing green. Tried sequence again...no crank, flashing green light on fob. Went out and got in the truck. Foot on brake, push button, no crank. Everything else seemed normal, just no crank. Tried again and a warning came up on instrument cluster, "check charging system", so I checked battery voltage and it was at 12.2. Thought that was a bit low so I hooked up the charger and after about 5 min. got in and it started right up.
Took it in for diagnosis hoping it was just a weak battery but multiple load tests showed it was good. Tech spent a couple hours drilling into the modules and systems looking for a fault or code and nothing was found that would indicate any problems with the systems. We did find in the manual that the flashing green light on the fob was in response to the truck receiving the signal to start from the fob, but the fob was not sent back a signal from the truck confirming that the truck had taken action on the start command.
So, that was all about a week and a half ago, and it has not failed to start to date. No resolution was found for the no crank condition, so I'm just waiting for it to do it again, and stay "broke" so the problem can be diagnosed.
Still love the truck!
Last edited by Livoniabob; Jun 3, 2016 at 12:07 PM.
Had this happen twice now on my 15 Lariat push button start.
First occasion:
Fob in cup holder. Foot on brake. Push button to start. Everything lit up like normal, but no crank. Tried again, no crank. Took fob, got out of the truck, shut door, remote start with fob and it cranked right over and started.
Second time:
Two days later. Attempted remote start from the kitchen with the second fob, (always leave a fob in the truck). Watching out the window, lights came on like normal but did not hear it crank. Looked at the fob and the green light was flashing quickly. Normally it would be solid green if start was successful, red if un-successful, but this time flashing green. Tried sequence again...no crank, flashing green light on fob. Went out and got in the truck. Foot on brake, push button, no crank. Everything else seemed normal, just no crank. Tried again and a warning came up on instrument cluster, "check charging system", so I checked battery voltage and it was at 12.2. Thought that was a bit low so I hooked up the charger and after about 5 min. got in and it started right up.
Took it in for diagnosis hoping it was just a weak battery but multiple load tests showed it was good. Tech spent a couple hours drilling into the modules and systems looking for a fault or code and nothing was found that would indicate any problems with the systems. We did find in the manual that the flashing green light on the fob was in response to the truck receiving the signal to start from the fob, but the fob was not sent back a signal from the truck confirming that the truck had taken action on the start command.
So, that was all about a week and a half ago, and it has not failed to start to date. No resolution was found for the no crank condition, so I'm just waiting for it to do it again, and stay "broke" so the problem can be diagnosed.
Still love the truck!
First occasion:
Fob in cup holder. Foot on brake. Push button to start. Everything lit up like normal, but no crank. Tried again, no crank. Took fob, got out of the truck, shut door, remote start with fob and it cranked right over and started.
Second time:
Two days later. Attempted remote start from the kitchen with the second fob, (always leave a fob in the truck). Watching out the window, lights came on like normal but did not hear it crank. Looked at the fob and the green light was flashing quickly. Normally it would be solid green if start was successful, red if un-successful, but this time flashing green. Tried sequence again...no crank, flashing green light on fob. Went out and got in the truck. Foot on brake, push button, no crank. Everything else seemed normal, just no crank. Tried again and a warning came up on instrument cluster, "check charging system", so I checked battery voltage and it was at 12.2. Thought that was a bit low so I hooked up the charger and after about 5 min. got in and it started right up.
Took it in for diagnosis hoping it was just a weak battery but multiple load tests showed it was good. Tech spent a couple hours drilling into the modules and systems looking for a fault or code and nothing was found that would indicate any problems with the systems. We did find in the manual that the flashing green light on the fob was in response to the truck receiving the signal to start from the fob, but the fob was not sent back a signal from the truck confirming that the truck had taken action on the start command.
So, that was all about a week and a half ago, and it has not failed to start to date. No resolution was found for the no crank condition, so I'm just waiting for it to do it again, and stay "broke" so the problem can be diagnosed.
Still love the truck!
The Ford dealer's main electronics guy spent lots of time on it. Had it driven all over and started multiple times over two days.....no luck repeating the problem. Once when I turned on the key, a screen came up for the automatic climate system, which I do not have. There is a gremlin somewhere here. Next trip in is #3. If no fix, is it a "lemon"?
Trending Topics
I think the missing link in this issue is the following:
Once the Ignition switch or Button is operated, it only signals a different circuit located in the Body Control Module that does the actual power circuit connection for Starter operation.
The fact that it is intermittent and shows the starter and its circuit works, indicates the >Start request< from the driver to the BCM is the failure link.
It can be the Bus, a connector or any part of that link that fails.
If this is not considered and worked on, the issue will just keep occurring.
.
The start circuit is not the old time Ignition switch applying power through the TR switch to a solenoid that applies power to the Starter Motor. Those days are long gone.
Almost everything is powered through a Body Control Module link.
This is necessary, to have remote control of many functions on the vehicle.
Good luck.
Once the Ignition switch or Button is operated, it only signals a different circuit located in the Body Control Module that does the actual power circuit connection for Starter operation.
The fact that it is intermittent and shows the starter and its circuit works, indicates the >Start request< from the driver to the BCM is the failure link.
It can be the Bus, a connector or any part of that link that fails.
If this is not considered and worked on, the issue will just keep occurring.
.
The start circuit is not the old time Ignition switch applying power through the TR switch to a solenoid that applies power to the Starter Motor. Those days are long gone.
Almost everything is powered through a Body Control Module link.
This is necessary, to have remote control of many functions on the vehicle.
Good luck.
I left it in Menards parking lot last night. Going soon to do one of 2 things,start it or tow it to the dealer 2 hundred yards away. Pay 250 for a diagnosis to see if my bumber to bumper warranty covers it.
My truck had this problem (2016 model) for 3 years, off and on. Dealer gave up and called in an outside consultant. He said he found nothing and did nothing. STRANGE that it has never happened again.









