Speaker/Amp Setup
06-16-2019, 04:48 PM
#11
My bad, sorry missed the part when you said you cut the harness wires not factory wires
06-16-2019, 04:52 PM
#12
Senior Member
06-16-2019, 04:55 PM
#13
06-16-2019, 05:05 PM
#14
Senior Member
FOR11-CK Harness
9 Channel Speed wire
take the harness in the house.. solder speed wire for in of the harness and another set to the out of the harness .. you will need to measure how much speed wire you will need to where you plan to install your DSP or amp.. i personally went with 2 (20ft) of speed wire ..
now you're wondering why would you do this if you're only doing a sub.. well.. this is if you want to upgrade all your speakers later on .. then you don't have to do double work..
so once you've run the speed wire to where your equipment will be... tap into the front wires of the speedwire for your sub... then connect the in speed wire to the out wire .. and that will maintain yoru factory radio to front and rear speaker connections.. then you run your tapped wires to your amp/dsp/crossover for your sub
in the future when you want to upgrade everything.. you disconnect those in and out speed wires.. then upgrade from there.. connections already done
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STF15.0 (06-18-2019)
06-16-2019, 06:30 PM
#15
To @dhmcfadin and @doug97gxe
THANK YOU for taking the time and effort to share these details in one, consolidated thread. Your patience and expertise is greatly appreciated.
THANK YOU for taking the time and effort to share these details in one, consolidated thread. Your patience and expertise is greatly appreciated.
06-16-2019, 09:20 PM
#16
Senior Member
To @dhmcfadin and @doug97gxe
THANK YOU for taking the time and effort to share these details in one, consolidated thread. Your patience and expertise is greatly appreciated.
THANK YOU for taking the time and effort to share these details in one, consolidated thread. Your patience and expertise is greatly appreciated.
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Wanna Ride (06-17-2019)
06-17-2019, 12:21 AM
#17
06-08-2020, 04:01 PM
#18
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The plug they speak of is for non-amplified vehicles. Sony is different.
To OP. To add more bass, stray away from the hideaway and ultra compact subwoofer setups. The results are lackluster and not worth the time of install. That being said, time of install does not indicate the level of difficulty. It's very easy to do it right.
Let's start with the basics. For a bass upgrade on an oem amplified system, you need the following basic components
1. Subwoofer and enclosure
2. Amplifier
3. Power wiring
4. Speaker wire
5. Soldering iron and solder
6. Heat shrink
What you do not need:
1. Forscan
2. Rear channels for source
In order for a subwoofer or any speaker to play, the speaker needs a source. In non-amplified f150 systems, you would use the for-11ck harness for source. The reason you use the harness compared to the hidden rear plug is due to the following:
1. No forscan changes needed- forscan can cause more issues than it solves
2. Installing the for-11ck harness is completely plug and play and allows you to easily add an amp for your components speakers in the future if you choose to do so.
3. The front left and right channels of the non-amplied f150 systems is full frequency from <20hz to >20,000hz. This means there is not bass roll off of any kind thus all of your speakers being amplified will have a full frequency signal. The rears however have a non-defeatbale 50hz highpass filter. Do not use the rears for signal in any application. Music is recorded in stereo left and right. Not front and rear. Rear channels are simply a processed reproduction of the front channels.
I know OP does not have a non-amplified system. I say all this first because I know there will be people who have non-amplified systems and will have the same original question.
To OP:
On your Sony system, the for-11ck harness will not work for your truck. However, that does not complicate the install. The signal you will use for your aftermarket subwoofer will simply be the subwoofer output of the Sony amp. That signal does have a small amount of bass roll off to protect the oem Sony sub. However, this will not hinder your subs ability to play full frequency as long as you choose the right equipment.
The oem Sony sub is dual voicecoil. This mean there are four wires within the sub harness that supply signal to sub. You want to use all four of these wires. Think of each wire as a channel. Left 1 Right 2 Left 3 Right 4.
You want one of the following:
1. An amplifier that accepts high level input
2. A high to low level converter (AudioControl lc2i is the best out there). This converts highlevel subwoofer signal from the Sony amp to low level rca to the new subwoofer. If your amp accepts high level, you can skip this step.
For a sub and just a sub upgrade, I recommend one of the "all in one" subs. JL would be my go to. 1 TW3 or TW1 10" will sound incredible next to the factory Sony system. This setup will give refined, impactful bass that won't over power the rest of the Sony system will still giving you enough boom to put a smile on your face when you need it. It's absolutely an SQ oriented sub.
Any of these will work with a little modification to the back wall padding.
https://www.jlaudio.com/car-audio-su...ified-microsub
From here, just run power to your new amp from the battery, find a factory ground (there are a number of them on the back wall).
Set your gain on your amp with a small amount of overlap to compensate for the small amount of bass role off from the Sony amp and you are done!
To OP. To add more bass, stray away from the hideaway and ultra compact subwoofer setups. The results are lackluster and not worth the time of install. That being said, time of install does not indicate the level of difficulty. It's very easy to do it right.
Let's start with the basics. For a bass upgrade on an oem amplified system, you need the following basic components
1. Subwoofer and enclosure
2. Amplifier
3. Power wiring
4. Speaker wire
5. Soldering iron and solder
6. Heat shrink
What you do not need:
1. Forscan
2. Rear channels for source
In order for a subwoofer or any speaker to play, the speaker needs a source. In non-amplified f150 systems, you would use the for-11ck harness for source. The reason you use the harness compared to the hidden rear plug is due to the following:
1. No forscan changes needed- forscan can cause more issues than it solves
2. Installing the for-11ck harness is completely plug and play and allows you to easily add an amp for your components speakers in the future if you choose to do so.
3. The front left and right channels of the non-amplied f150 systems is full frequency from <20hz to >20,000hz. This means there is not bass roll off of any kind thus all of your speakers being amplified will have a full frequency signal. The rears however have a non-defeatbale 50hz highpass filter. Do not use the rears for signal in any application. Music is recorded in stereo left and right. Not front and rear. Rear channels are simply a processed reproduction of the front channels.
I know OP does not have a non-amplified system. I say all this first because I know there will be people who have non-amplified systems and will have the same original question.
To OP:
On your Sony system, the for-11ck harness will not work for your truck. However, that does not complicate the install. The signal you will use for your aftermarket subwoofer will simply be the subwoofer output of the Sony amp. That signal does have a small amount of bass roll off to protect the oem Sony sub. However, this will not hinder your subs ability to play full frequency as long as you choose the right equipment.
The oem Sony sub is dual voicecoil. This mean there are four wires within the sub harness that supply signal to sub. You want to use all four of these wires. Think of each wire as a channel. Left 1 Right 2 Left 3 Right 4.
You want one of the following:
1. An amplifier that accepts high level input
2. A high to low level converter (AudioControl lc2i is the best out there). This converts highlevel subwoofer signal from the Sony amp to low level rca to the new subwoofer. If your amp accepts high level, you can skip this step.
For a sub and just a sub upgrade, I recommend one of the "all in one" subs. JL would be my go to. 1 TW3 or TW1 10" will sound incredible next to the factory Sony system. This setup will give refined, impactful bass that won't over power the rest of the Sony system will still giving you enough boom to put a smile on your face when you need it. It's absolutely an SQ oriented sub.
Any of these will work with a little modification to the back wall padding.
https://www.jlaudio.com/car-audio-su...ified-microsub
From here, just run power to your new amp from the battery, find a factory ground (there are a number of them on the back wall).
Set your gain on your amp with a small amount of overlap to compensate for the small amount of bass role off from the Sony amp and you are done!
I seen you recommended the LC2i. My current amp that i pulled from my GM before I sold doesnt have high level inputs. So i would need this for sure. Would I gain anything with using the Pac Amp Pro FD21 instead? From what i can see, cleaner signal. And i can add speakers/amps in the future. But the low bass roll off still exists, correct?
Ford definitely makes this confusing in comparison to the other 2 installs I did.