KOZ45

If/When bought new, I believe most places want it installed by the authorized shop for warranty........which is a joke

Most places also do a HORRIBLE job at wiring the cap, and find the easiest and cheapest method

Here is what I found when I re-wired my cap:




The caps are easy to remove and easy to install, just 4-6 clamps.........lining it up and being careful not to hit the cab is the hardest part, but still can be done with ease

Siskiyou

I used to take mine off and just set it in the lawn when I wanted to haul bark or gravel. That got old so I bought a small utility trailer but like KOZ45 shows they are pretty easy to remove. If you buy from a dealer you still need to get it home though. Also, I must be fortunate because I thought the dealer did a very nice job of installing mine. Now if only the paint matched.

A&B

Are the 2016's just plug and play for the wiring of the cap. Having one installed when it arrives and would prefer not to find a mess like KOZ45 after installation.

acdii

I haven't checked how they wired mine yet, but when asked they did know what needed to be done to wire them. So at least they are up to speed on where the taps are for the brake light and aux power for the interior lighting, which the 15+ no longer have that was on the 09-14 under the hood. They know about those as well.

What I haven't done yet is to see if there is a way to disable the cab light that comes on when the bed lights are on.

acdii

No, they have to tap a wire in the kick panel inside the cab. That is only for the brake light. I haven't looked into a aux tap for the interior lights.

j.digiacomo

They're not terribly difficult to do, but most of the time it's worth the $100 (or less) to use the forklift to set it, and the installers know the wiring like the back of their hands. With our trucks, you either have to run a converter that passes a brake signal once both taillights are lit, or a single hot wire from the frame rail under the drivers seat. Most of the dome lighting is tied into the existing bed light wiring and switches. E-locks will generally have to be run from the sill plate wiring channel.

KOZ45

This is a factory wire tap in my truck, for the cap's third brake light






I also ran a 12G wire from the battery to the cap, for a 3 hole 12V (switched) accessory outlet, for my Streamlights and two interior LEDs strip lights

DaNinja

I love reading through all the input here.

The camper top I have on the 1999 Ram is a high rise Ranch.

I just picked up a 2015 F150 and I am looking for a camper top for some of the gear that I carry.

Truck is Ruby Red w/ Metallic Clear. Bed is the 68" (If that is what it is called).
I like the AREs that I see here. Cab high looks best with the short bed. Higher rise would be nice, but would look odd with this short bed.

Drop down front window looks like a great option as I try to clean the old Dodge and shell windows. Lighting also looks pretty handy.

I have an quote request out to ARE. Input to your most valued options are welcomed.

acdii

Not knowing where you are, the prices vary on location. An ARE that I got a couple quotes on are between 2300 and 2500 installed. Mine is also RR with the short box. I wound up getting a Lakeland topper instead, only $1477 installed.

All were quoted pretty much the same, fold down front slider, carpeted interior, the ARE though had LED strip lighting and post switch added that wasn't an option on the Lakeland.

Here is one of them

DaNinja

I will get my quote from ARE tomorrow. I guess I should work on my profile while I am at it. Thanks.