Flamingtaco

I want to raise the rear 1/2-1 inch when I raise put the front at the 1.79 Bilstein setting, and have several options to achieve this:

Blocks
Shackles
Add-a-Leaf

Blocks: Not really considering this as all they do is lift the rear, and I am not against reducing squat, if possible.

Shackles: This is currently my first choice. In addition to lift, as the shackle hangs from the spring, you shorten it to get lift, which also reduces the amount of room the spring has to stretch under compression. This serves to increase the spring rate, which would reduce squat under a load. What I don't know is:
1) Is the change in spring rate significant enough to notice a reduction in squat, or feel an increase in ride firmness or bounce?
2) Do 5100's provide enough dampening for the higher spring rate?
3) How much lift do they provide? I've only found Maxtrac shackles that indicate a 1" lift. Does not clarify if that's a 1" lift at the shackle (1"shorter shackle), or a 1" lift of the rear (2" shorter shackle).
4) Would a 1" or 2" shorter shackle place too much stress on the wrapped end spring? Is failure a thing because of shackles?

Add-a-leaf: Similar effect to shackles by actually providing spring support, but I've only found them with 1.5" lift minimum.

There are other options, but I'm already in for front adj. Bilsteins, an alignment, a new set of wheels, and new tires. I'd rather leave it near level for now than spend much beyond $100, in which case I'd go with bags.

Thanks!

Mb1500

If you are 4x4 buy a 2” block and be done. Will raise about .75” from the stock block. If 2wd just purchase whatever height block you want to raise the rear.

Flamingtaco

Thanks.

Looking for comments on experience in using the other options as well, if you have installed shackles or add a leafs, post up!

2018LLB4x2

It hadn't occurred to me that swapping shackles would change the effective spring rate. If that was sufficiently effective I probably could've saved some cash.
I went to a spring shop that turned out wasn't too far from home. I indicated that I needed both more rear height as well as an increase in stiffness to help from bottoming out. He just asked for a target rear height so I picked one and it was just under an inch more that it sat when I dropped it off. I probably could've just gone with one of my earlier plans and not done the air bags too if was indeed correct about being able to build a spring pack to work.

Short answer is that with custom spring work you be able to reach your goals.

Flamingtaco

How much did the customs springs cost? Looking to stay under $100.

DeltaNu1142

AAL's are cheap. I used AutoSpring leafs that cost just over $100 and I replaced the stock rear 1.75" block with a 1" block.

I share this table from my build thread quite a bit:

Mods.........................Front.....Rear......Rake
Stock........................37.125....39.75.....2.625
+ 2" spacers, Decked.........38.75.... 39.0625...0.3125
+ wheels & tires.............40.1875...40.25.....0.0625
+ bumper & cargo.............39.75.....39.5625..-0.1875
+ AAL, - stock block.........39.75.....39.875....0.125
+1" block....................39.625....41.031....1.406
+Bilsteins & HDPP springs....40.54.....40.75.....0.22
-spacers, Bilsteins to 2.1”..39.56.....40.75.....1.19

You can read the rest here.

2018LLB4x2

I'll need to find paperwork to see if it has better details on the part cost. It was around $500, but that was drop it off and pick it up. It would have been a bit less if the bags were not there as it added to the list of things that needed to come off and go back on.

Flamingtaco

That's a good idea, take the additional height, dial it down with shorter blocks. Slightly more $$, but retains oem spring stretch, and reduces wrap potential.

What are the sizes of the various oem blocks? Everything I found in google is either the 4x4 (1-1/4") block, or taller. I presume the lower 4x2's have a shorter block.

2018LLB4x2

There isn't a block on the 4x2's, so it's a really affordable swap

Flamingtaco

I came to the conclusion last night that I probably won't want a block. 2.0 lift - 1-1/4 block = 3/4 lift. Just got the front 5100's, putting them at 1.75" which appears to settle around 1.5". I want to keep some rake for loads, but don't want to move the hitch too far as my draw bars are close to setting my trailers noticeably nose high. I'm using Reese's stainless Interlock bars/*****, my light trailers are on the deepest drop bar.