I saw that and liked it, just more money then I wanted to spend. It is what gave me the idea to mount a light in the same spot.

 

I went with this:

https://www.vleds.com/shop-products/...erse-72-w.html

I've been very happy and it's very easy to wire to your taillight or to your towing wiring harness. Extremely bright too!

 

I would have bought it it was less then $40. $75 was just to rich for me. Glad you like it.

 

@Toolferone Sorry I didn't notice the previous post that already pointed out the Vled option. I actually got mine on a Vled sale where it was $25 off, so I only paid $50.

 

See if it'd fit under the bumper like mine... It's pretty much invisible unless you duck down to look under the bumper and will give you nice light output when reversing. Just tap power to center wire on the 7pin connector (reverse) and ground to chassis.

Attachment 566402
Attachment 566403
Attachment 566404

 

Awesome idea! I will look into it. I have 2 units. Thx!

 

These are great ideas, and...I'm embarrassed to admit I have NEVER tapped into the existing wiring on ANY vehicle I've ever owned. At my age, embarrassment is appropriate .

Can I be a pest and ask someone to explain / post pics of exactly how "tapping" into the trailer harness and/or the existing tailight works?

I would love a brighter reverse option.

 

It's pretty much just taking an existing wire (in this case, the wire for the reverse lights off of the trailer connector) and running another wire from it to power the lights. You can do this using a wiretap (such as these off amazon ) or just cutting and soldering on an additional wire.

So for example if you want to power an LED reverse light bar... you would connect the power wire from the lightbar to the reverse light wire on your trailer connector (If you look at the 7 pin connector, the wire going to the center pin will power on when the car is in reverse), then you connect the negative on your LED light bar to the chassis to ground it.

 

I recommend these:
Have used on multiple projects.

At the 1:30 mark is when the taps are demoed

 

YES, Posi-taps are an excellent option! Not the cheapest though. I mostly solder my connections.