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The spec. is for a lubricated joint that does not require additional lube on the line. The nuts will have RP on them, the bearing and studs will have RP on them, and the studs are coated with the friction reducing coating. Adding lube to the assembly is not going to change the torque spec. needed, just keeping it closer to factory with the RP and coating being gone/worn off.
Lube also will not cause 150 ft./lbs. to be more than 150 ft./lbs, it will just get my joint closer to an actual 150 instead of say 140. Ford has done a lot of testing on this and is well aware of what is going on in this joint, applying lube and torqueing to spec. will not cause an issue in a properly designed joint.....and a lot less issues than a non-lubricated joint.
Not true. My son is a Honda design engineer and I got what I wrote above directly from him. He works with torque measurements all the time.
yes, shops overtighten regular. The FORD EDGE 2014 and prior uses 100 foot lbs torque, the FORF EDGE 2015 and after uses 150 foot lbs torque, my vehicle is the 2014, and the garages overtighten it. I just tell them direcly what it is, it takes 100 and use a 13/16 socket because I replaced the nuts from 19mm.
buy what is called a lug nut removal kit for $30. It will have some sockets in it. They are designed to cut into the worn lug nut after you hammer it on, then you put on your 1/2 inch socket wrench and apply pressure, it will cut into the nut and force it to spin off. Works very well.
Not true. My son is a Honda design engineer and I got what I wrote above directly from him. He works with torque measurements all the time.
Ditto. The simple "mechanic mind" can't see past "torque" and has come to believe twisting torque holds things together. We only spec torque because we can not conveniently directly measure tension on the stud. When lubed 150 ft-lbf of torque pulls harder on the stud than not-lubed. Yes, it is the same twisting torque on the nut but the stud is pulled 10-20% tighter if lubed.
Think of the stud (or any bolt or screw) as a spring. It really does stretch when the nut is tightened. The design question is how much stretch pulling the parts together is needed? Studs and nut torque sized accordingly.
This is what the WSM shows, but I've always just tapped them out with a hammer and installed them with a lug nut (similar to below)
unless the hub is off the vehicle, then I use my hydraulic press.
This reminds me of a young friend who bought new tires and rims for a 65 Chevy pu he was restoring.
His Dad worked at our shop, a mechanic for our trucks. 18 wheelers. No one was at the shop at the time.
We had a gigantic pneumatic tire impact wrench for the lugs for the big trucks..
He had his new rims and tires mounted somewhere and stopped at our shop to put them on the pickup truck.
He used the big gun and tightened them way too much.
He left the shop and took the first hard turn and both the rims came off the truck.
Because he tightened them too much, it was an expensive mistake and he broke the studs and cracked the new rims and messed up his brakes.
Not true. My son is a Honda design engineer and I got what I wrote above directly from him. He works with torque measurements all the time.
It wont be "more than 150", so he is not correct in that sense. But, the stress on the stud WILL be higher torqued to 150 lubricated vs dry.
My 2018 manual does not mention anything about lubricating, and to my knowledge, there is no lubricating coating (xylan, etc) applied to the studs at manufacturing. If you lubricate them and torque to 150 lb/ft and the spec is dry at 150 lb/ft, you are indeed overtightening them. Without knowing the material properties and required clamping force Ford has determined, it would be difficult to "figure out" if it is intended to be dry or lubricated.
01-04-2023, 01:34 PM
