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Remove Overhead Map Light/Sunglass Panel?

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Old Feb 2, 2019 | 10:54 PM
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Default Remove Overhead Map Light/Sunglass Panel?

Looking to power a dash cam. Guessing sufficient power can be found in the overhead console. Before I start tugging and forcing things to explore, any guidance on where to tug? Where to find hidden screws? How about removing the dome light? Appears to be LED and not intended for user serviceable parts.

2018 XLT Supercab.
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Old Feb 3, 2019 | 01:39 AM
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Originally Posted by N4HHE
Looking to power a dash cam. Guessing sufficient power can be found in the overhead console. Before I start tugging and forcing things to explore, any guidance on where to tug? Where to find hidden screws? How about removing the dome light? Appears to be LED and not intended for user serviceable parts.

2018 XLT Supercab.
Any reason you don't want to run a wire to the fusebox on the passenger side? That's what I did and used an add-a-fuse. Took 5 minutes.
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Old Feb 3, 2019 | 02:45 AM
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Originally Posted by chris24
Any reason you don't want to run a wire to the fusebox on the passenger side? That's what I did and used an add-a-fuse. Took 5 minutes.
How did you run the cable so it was hidden? I think it is easier to tap the map light \ sunglass panel like the OP wants to do. Will be watching this thread.
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Old Feb 3, 2019 | 04:11 AM
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Originally Posted by dms1
How did you run the cable so it was hidden? I think it is easier to tap the map light \ sunglass panel like the OP wants to do. Will be watching this thread.
Just ran it across the headliner and down the pillar, tucked into the weather stripping. Cant see it. Bought a hardwire kit from Amazon for around $13 and it included everything, including the add-a-fuse. I was considering hardwire into overhead but id rather have something easily removable.
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Old Feb 3, 2019 | 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by chris24
Any reason you don't want to run a wire to the fusebox on the passenger side? That's what I did and used an add-a-fuse. Took 5 minutes.
The dash cam should draw relatively little power that could be stolen from somewhere close. The overhead console seems easier than figuring out how the roof liner comes loose at the front.

Secondly am also installing amateur radio and considering installing the remote control head on the rear side of the overhead console. Rather than put holes in the roof liner I want to get the console out to see if I can fabricate a ProClip-like bracket to slip between console plastic and roof liner.

The question about dome light has to do with dropping the roof liner enough to ensure I don't drill an antenna hole into a wiring harness or roof brace. Then the coax will run down the passenger rear corner. Radio body under either rear seat or passenger seat. Control head cable back up the right rear corner through the roof liner to the overhead console. And power probably run in door sill or under carpet to firewall and out to battery, many vehicles have a wire trough in the door sills. There is a chance I will run it through a drain plug in floor and under the truck to the battery.

Last edited by N4HHE; Feb 3, 2019 at 09:43 AM.
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Old Feb 3, 2019 | 11:52 AM
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its pretty easy to get off. I powered my dashcam from up there. My dashcam is powered from a usb port so it takes 5 Vdc and I needed a little step down dc/dc converter. pretty cheap on amazon. I did some searches on here on how to remove the upper console and found a few threads showing how to do it.
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Old Feb 3, 2019 | 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by N4HHE
The dash cam should draw relatively little power that could be stolen from somewhere close. The overhead console seems easier than figuring out how the roof liner comes loose at the front.

Secondly am also installing amateur radio and considering installing the remote control head on the rear side of the overhead console. Rather than put holes in the roof liner I want to get the console out to see if I can fabricate a ProClip-like bracket to slip between console plastic and roof liner.

The question about dome light has to do with dropping the roof liner enough to ensure I don't drill an antenna hole into a wiring harness or roof brace. Then the coax will run down the passenger rear corner. Radio body under either rear seat or passenger seat. Control head cable back up the right rear corner through the roof liner to the overhead console. And power probably run in door sill or under carpet to firewall and out to battery, many vehicles have a wire trough in the door sills. There is a chance I will run it through a drain plug in floor and under the truck to the battery.
I wouldn't recommend running anything "under" the truck, there are "pass throughs" in the firewall.
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Old Feb 3, 2019 | 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Spectragod
I wouldn't recommend running anything "under" the truck, there are "pass throughs" in the firewall.
I haven't looked from the cabin side but see a fusebox on right rear in the engine compartment that has a big maybe 4" diameter rubber grommet with at least 2 big cable assemblies that appear to be coming from the fuse box. That looks to be the easiest place to thread another wire cable. Or is there another you recommend?
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Old Feb 3, 2019 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Spectragod
I wouldn't recommend running anything "under" the truck, there are "pass throughs" in the firewall.
Pfft, those pass-throughs aren't sufficient for dual 1/0ga. cables
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Old Feb 3, 2019 | 11:00 PM
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I powered my cam from the rear window slider button in the upper console. It was easy as pie. There is a wire that is hot when the ignition is on, and off when the ignition is off. As well as a ground, all right there.

The console itself just pulls straight down. Like the others have said, just youtube it. I was nervous at first as well, but it just popped right down and popped right back up.

I spliced in a female USB plug, which gives me the option to plug just about anything into it. I then plugged my GoPro cable into it and hid it all in under the console.

Here are some pics. The electrical tape makes it look a little bad, but that was just for shielding the bare spots. I did a fully soldered in-line splice connection on both the hot and ground. It has worked flawless, and no impact on the rear window operation either.

https://i.imgur.com/vB4pSIY.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/OUCw6yh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ayuT6pg.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/tBAn3RE.jpg
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