Reflection 150 series question
Good morning all,
I'm looking at upgrading our TT to one of the new “half ton towable” fifth wheels. We’ve had our TT for 8 years and it’s time for a change (at 6650 lbs dry with 400 lb tongue weight it tows like a dream BTW).
Our Truck is a 2019 F150 Lariat Special Edition, Supercrew, 3.5 EB, 3.55 axle, tow package with a payload of 1692 lbs and a max tow of 10500 lbs (the dealer tells me, I’m confused what the actual tow capacity is but payload is off the sticker).
The fifth wheel we are looking at is a Grand Design, Reflection 150, 268BH which is 7995 lbs dry with a hitch weight of 1274 lbs.
I understand that payload is the critical number here and if I take off the three of us, two dogs, the hitch (@150lbs) and another 100 lbs for Good measure, I’m at about 900lbs available which is way under the hitch weight need.
My question is, am I missing a fundamental difference between TT and Fifth wheels when towed or am I automatically out on being able to tow this model based on the payload alone as I’ve identified above?
Many thanks in advance for any advice and guidance.
Dave
I'm looking at upgrading our TT to one of the new “half ton towable” fifth wheels. We’ve had our TT for 8 years and it’s time for a change (at 6650 lbs dry with 400 lb tongue weight it tows like a dream BTW).
Our Truck is a 2019 F150 Lariat Special Edition, Supercrew, 3.5 EB, 3.55 axle, tow package with a payload of 1692 lbs and a max tow of 10500 lbs (the dealer tells me, I’m confused what the actual tow capacity is but payload is off the sticker).
The fifth wheel we are looking at is a Grand Design, Reflection 150, 268BH which is 7995 lbs dry with a hitch weight of 1274 lbs.
I understand that payload is the critical number here and if I take off the three of us, two dogs, the hitch (@150lbs) and another 100 lbs for Good measure, I’m at about 900lbs available which is way under the hitch weight need.
My question is, am I missing a fundamental difference between TT and Fifth wheels when towed or am I automatically out on being able to tow this model based on the payload alone as I’ve identified above?
Many thanks in advance for any advice and guidance.
Dave
1rst question 5.5' bed or 6.5' bed ????
No go on the 5.5' bed with out a special tongue on the trailer.
https://www.etrailer.com/Fifth-Wheel...se/RP34FR.html
____________________________
19 F150 Max Tow
No go on the 5.5' bed with out a special tongue on the trailer.
https://www.etrailer.com/Fifth-Wheel...se/RP34FR.html
____________________________
19 F150 Max Tow
Thanks, it’s a 5.5 bed and the Reflection 150 series is designed for that with the turning point hitch (it puts the pivot point 22 inches back to allow up to 90 degree turn in a short bed). That’s one reason why I like that model.
It won't work with that truck, trust me and see my signature below. That hitch weight isn't true in your case. Those advertised hitch weights (and for that matter towing capacities) are for sleezy RV salesmen and truck manufacturer advertising having little to do with your actual towing experience. If you mulitply the trailer GVWR x .18 (for 150 series 5W ) you'll get a number that is realistic and could make a fair judgement on.
The dynamics and loading of a fifth wheel are greatly different as the weight is placed over the rear axle vs the receiver hitch on the rear bumper. With a rear hitch you can use a weight distribution hitch to transfer weight to the front axle sharing the load. What is on your pin with a 5W is it, the load is spread by the frame. So you need a tow vehicle that has the structure to handle the weight, i.e. payload. Also consider an Andersen Ultimate Hitch along with a B&W Turnover Ball or Curt Double Lock Gooseball as it would lower hitch weight by more than half. 75# vs nearly 200# for a traditional fifth wheel hitch.
Go to the B&W hitch website and search for their calculator. If you are honest in your inputs you'll see that even a 230RL probably would not work with your truck. Above all do your homework and educate yourself, Don't get stars in your eyes over something new and don't listen to a salesman, his interest is not in your best interest. Your safety and towing comfort is in your best interest, you are the one who will be pulling the trailer around.
The dynamics and loading of a fifth wheel are greatly different as the weight is placed over the rear axle vs the receiver hitch on the rear bumper. With a rear hitch you can use a weight distribution hitch to transfer weight to the front axle sharing the load. What is on your pin with a 5W is it, the load is spread by the frame. So you need a tow vehicle that has the structure to handle the weight, i.e. payload. Also consider an Andersen Ultimate Hitch along with a B&W Turnover Ball or Curt Double Lock Gooseball as it would lower hitch weight by more than half. 75# vs nearly 200# for a traditional fifth wheel hitch.
Go to the B&W hitch website and search for their calculator. If you are honest in your inputs you'll see that even a 230RL probably would not work with your truck. Above all do your homework and educate yourself, Don't get stars in your eyes over something new and don't listen to a salesman, his interest is not in your best interest. Your safety and towing comfort is in your best interest, you are the one who will be pulling the trailer around.
Last edited by Wicked ace; Oct 18, 2020 at 11:45 AM.
Just taking your payload (1692) minus the hitch weight (1274) only leaves you 418 pounds before you're over your payload rating for your truck. Three humans and two dogs will put you well over that. I'm sure the truck would pull it but if you're being honest with yourself if you are set on this trailer it is time for an F250.
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback, I do believe we need a F250 for our towing desires but wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing something as experienced as we are with TT [why I went from 2.7 to 3.5), we are completely new to the concept of a fifth wheel. It just delays our upgrade for a year or so but I’m prepared to do that. 👍
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It won't work with that truck, trust me and see my signature below. That hitch weight isn't true in your case. Those advertised hitch weights (and for that matter towing capacities) are for sleezy RV salesmen and truck manufacturer advertising having little to do with your actual towing experience. If you mulitply the trailer GVWR x .18 (for 150 series 5W ) you'll get a number that is realistic and could make a fair judgement on.
The dynamics and loading of a fifth wheel are greatly different as the weight is placed over the rear axle vs the receiver hitch on the rear bumper. With a rear hitch you can use a weight distribution hitch to transfer weight to the front axle sharing the load. What is on your pin with a 5W is it, the load is spread by the frame. So you need a tow vehicle that has the structure to handle the weight, i.e. payload. Also consider an Andersen Ultimate Hitch along with a B&W Turnover Ball or Curt Double Lock Gooseball as it would lower hitch weight by more than half. 75# vs nearly 200# for a traditional fifth wheel hitch.
Go to the B&W hitch website and search for their calculator. If you are honest in your inputs you'll see that even a 230RL probably would not work with your truck. Above all do your homework and educate yourself, Don't get stars in your eyes over something new and don't listen to a salesman, his interest is not in your best interest. Your safety and towing comfort is in your best interest, you are the one who will be pulling the trailer around.
The dynamics and loading of a fifth wheel are greatly different as the weight is placed over the rear axle vs the receiver hitch on the rear bumper. With a rear hitch you can use a weight distribution hitch to transfer weight to the front axle sharing the load. What is on your pin with a 5W is it, the load is spread by the frame. So you need a tow vehicle that has the structure to handle the weight, i.e. payload. Also consider an Andersen Ultimate Hitch along with a B&W Turnover Ball or Curt Double Lock Gooseball as it would lower hitch weight by more than half. 75# vs nearly 200# for a traditional fifth wheel hitch.
Go to the B&W hitch website and search for their calculator. If you are honest in your inputs you'll see that even a 230RL probably would not work with your truck. Above all do your homework and educate yourself, Don't get stars in your eyes over something new and don't listen to a salesman, his interest is not in your best interest. Your safety and towing comfort is in your best interest, you are the one who will be pulling the trailer around.
Posts #5 & #6 look good to me, especially #6 math but I can add to the discussion. Drive your truck across a scale with a full tank of gas, recording the weight on each axle, subtract that weight from the vehicles gross vehicles weight. You will now have a new actual pay load available. Remember added anything else to the truck as you pack up, impacts payload, another passenger, shovel, tool box, heavy 5th Wheel hitch for the truck. .Also each axle has its own maximum weight plus I suspect most of the 5th wheels weight is carried on the trucks rear axle. Now the 5th wheel trailer is going to gain about a 1,000 pounds by the time you add all you supplies dishes, cooking utensils, filling the refrigerator (6 or 8 cubic foot space capacity) with food, beer,soda, extra chairs, hoses, extra power cords, clothing.water, propane and all those necessities we are getting away from home but are taking them with us. I do tow a 7,400 lb travel trailer, that's its weight fully loaded. Now Ford has specifications for your maximum towed vehicles frontal face, 5th wheels stand quit high and wide, make sure you actually calculate that, that one measurement, could cancel the hole idea. All that stuff we add to the 5th wheel does not get carried on the 5th wheels axles, some moves to added the tong weight, depending where you place it in the RV unit. Speaking for my trailers weight, 3.5L echo boost engines are a bit marginal when relying on compression to hold you back while going down a 6% grade as compared to my old 396 cubic inch engine hold back. The 3.5 EB works but you want to keep your mind clear, possibly adding a needed touch of breaking going down a 6% grade and if your going the same hill slower, there is less compression effect as all engines do. Get in an accident your fault or not and exceeding the vehicles maximums may become a finical head ache. Even if just maximizing your vehicle's limits can limit the enjoyment of a pleasurably traveling.trip.
Take care, be cautious of most if not all sales people, they only have to live with the short falls during that brief sails period, we may be taking them home to struggle with for years to come.
Take care, I hope it works out well for you
Take care, be cautious of most if not all sales people, they only have to live with the short falls during that brief sails period, we may be taking them home to struggle with for years to come.
Take care, I hope it works out well for you
With a 10,000lb GVW you are pushing the limits of the F150 with twice it's weight in a trailer. About the only way you should consider this with a 150 is with an HDPP. Beyond having a near end of range GCWR, the suspension and rear axles of the non-HDPP trucks can't support the payload needed for a trailer like this.
You can find some XL configurations that can handle this, but you're trading features for capacity. Either way you look at it, you're due for a new truck to handle that trailer.
You can find some XL configurations that can handle this, but you're trading features for capacity. Either way you look at it, you're due for a new truck to handle that trailer.






