303 Stainless, so just hardware store bolts and washers at a markup. Between the softness of the 303 stainless, the galvanic corrosion when paired with the cast iron diff housing, and the cheesy hex key driver, I would expect to strip some out popping the cover off after any significant amount of time.

 

just giving him options as he already got his answer and appears to not be a fan of the cost of the ARP bolts. They hold up well enough to have almost 0 complaints and are cheap enough to replace every 30-40k which is when some of us pop the cover for a quick drain and fill.

 

What galvanic corrosion are talking about? They will live happily until the end of time in a differential. Just stop making things up, it's a bad look.

 

Have you had to drill out a snapped diff cover bolt before? I am certain that the majority of cheap hardware store bolts won't cause an issue. But I have had to drill out a snapped stock bolt, and would gladly have paid an extra $20 to get that hour of my life back.

Galvanic corrosion - what happens when dissimilar metals are in contact with each other within a corrosive environment.

https://worldstainless.org/wp-conten...h_Other_EN.pdf

The combination of stainless steel and cast iron is called out several times and always noted that it's not a recommended combination due to the high self-corrosion rate of the cast iron. Not sure about the Super 8.8, but I know on the 9.75 that many of the bolts are complete through-holes, meaning salt spray, water, and grime can get into the hole and soak the bolt-to-case connection forever.

 

not sure what that has to do with what I said. He asked a specific question, got his answer, and then seemed to not be happy with the cost (nothing to do with your opinion of cost)…so I offered him a cheaper alternative. Didn’t say it was a better solution or anything else. Just another option that doesn’t seem to be subject to issues based on reviews.

but yes, I am quite experienced in hardware removal in both auto and aircraft.