I think I know how this is going to go but I still want to see how this turns out. I can get a pretty good deal on some new rims and tires to complete my upgrades but the jury is out (the one in my head at least) on what I'll have to do to make them fit without rubbing. The details are:

• Halo Lifts Aluma 2.0- set at 2-1/2" can go to 3" along with a 2-3/4 to 2-5/8 tapered rear block
• Wheel- Fuel Zephyr 17x9 0 offset
• Tire- 35 x 12.5 x 17

 

Only as an FYI:
3" up front is not the best option. Staying at or lower than 2.5" is suggested.
I don't have any help for the 35's....but if you feel like going to 3" just to fit and not trim I'd encourage you to consider other options.

 

Do you know what is in the Halolifts Aluma? It has new UCA's, its not a puck system.

 

No pucks. Full coilovers but no new UCAs ( i got rear shocks too). I know because the boxes are sitting on the floor in my garage.

 

3" with just coilovers? I would upgrade to the kit with new UCA's myself.

 

I already bought the kit without the UCAs. I can still get the uppers but my questions is- will the tire/rim combo not fit regardless??

 

With new upper control arms the ride quality will be less degraded is all. You can back a touch of UCA articulation.

Adding a replacement control arm or not will not affect the half-shafts (CV joints). Only way to address the half-shaft is by raising the spindle or lowering the differential.

How much of a problem is it...meh, only when you're in 4x4. The 4a in OP's truck though has minimal drag on the front drive line at all times.
Not trying to scare you, just informing you.

 

At the 2.5" setting, what's going to get you is the wheel offset. I'm using a +20 with BFG 315/70/17, a plus +18 would likely work, but I wouldn't go any further. I'm one that feels if you start trimming things, the combination doesn't work. Spreading the crashbars I can live with, although I haven't needed to. I'm not using any mudflaps either, on the last truck with the same level, and with Raptor wheels, +34, I had to remove my front flaps, they were WeatherTechs, and possibly they were a bit wider than most.
What is the exact size and brand of tires you're considering Will? A 315 is 12.40 in a KO2, at 34.4" diameter, possibly a 305 would work better with that 0 offset? I was worried when I went to the +20.

 

The deal is for some Yokohama Geolanders. I'm not stuck on the tire so much but I was really hoping to get a 0 offset to work somehow. If I need to come down to a 285 to make that happen I will. I keep getting teased though by posts where guys said they made a larger tire work with out rubbing. It makes me wonder about the honesty level, or if they meant no rubbing after trimming. I don't want buy something that doesn't fit, but I also don't want but something and immediately think I could've went bigger.

 

I just quickly ran 305/70/17 on a calculator I use, and it looks like that may be a good size.
Here's a link to it, you just have to plug in the numbers.
275/60-R20 vs 315/70-R17 Tire Comparison - Tire Size Calculator