BlackBoost

Forums search didn't help much, and google image search doesn't come up with results that I'm looking for... which is specifically a 16' canoe.

Wondering if anyone has a decent side-view pic of a 16' canoe on an F-150, preferably a Screw shortbox.

I'm building a rack for the bed that will overhang above the cab and trying to guestimate how long and high the overhang should be. I'm thinking if the back tip of the canoe is over the hitch ball, then the front tip will be about halfway down the windshield. But I'm also curious about the curve of the canoe and how low it'll hang. Need to make sure the overhang is right. The problem is that I don't have the canoe now, and need to make the drive to go pick it up and bring it home, but can't pick it up because I don't have the rack. Chicken and egg thing...

Just trying to get a good visual really, with a confirmed 16-foot canoe length instead of browsing all the image searches that don't specifically state the length

TIA!

ian1386

Don't have a canoe myself, but a short bed screw is 232" long and a 16' canoe is 192" long, so the tip will be about 40" back from the front of the truck if you line it up with the rear bumper. Quick photoshop for reference:

BlackBoost

Thanks man that really helps me get an idea! I'm trying to get a pic of the actual canoe's side profile to see how much it bows. Looks like I should make the crossbar at the rear of the bed lower than the one above the cab...

Gordy49913

The problem I see is weight distribution. The center of balance will be over the cab of the truck.

Delavan

Boost,

I would let the back of the canoe overhang maybe another 12 inches further than the hitch ball...its high enough.


Here is my truck in the back. Sorry, it's a 6.5ft box. 15.5 foot canoe. I got a pool noodle-type foam device (NOW wedged in the front handle) to avoid the roof from being damaged. The way the noodle was sitting depicted in the picture was just a trial. I can say that the front tip of the canoe is basically sitting right over the rear-view mirror mount.

The rack is :

http://TracRac TracOne Truck Bed Cargo Rack

The noodle-type thing:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/pa...0122p.html#srp

Jim10517

Why not make a mounting bracket for the front or the front and back to raise the canoe up enough to clear the roof? I'd be concerned about the canoe deflecting a bit and damaging the roof with or without the noodle.

Delavan

Good suggestion, but I can say that I've been driving the truck for 2 full summers with that setup and its fine. Driving down the highway at 70-75 mph daily. I added and "anti-theft" wire with a padlock, which in reality also acts as a third fastening point. I can also see if the straps are still tight, as the wire doesn't move. I changed the ratchet straps every year for good measure, in case UV rays take their toll on the fabric..A front hitch attachment with a bar would be nice, but not necessary in my case I believe. The canoe does flex when its hot out (you can see some form getting out of shape), but its an old beater made out of plastic. I torque the straps quite a bit!

BlackBoost

I'm fine with that. The rack will be tied down in the bed with ratchet straps and won't go anywhere. If it were a couple hundred pounds I'd be concerned, but at 60 lbs it's a non-issue.

Thanks for the pics! I'll definitely be loading it much more forward as I'll be building an overhang over the cab like this




Note that this is someone else's design for using the stake pockets. Mine will be a removable full frame. I can't have anything touching the roof because I have a moonroof. This is where I'm worried: I'd like to have it further back, but this means that front tip comes closer to the windshield and top front of the roof.

I might have to just make it really tall just to pick it up and get it home... I can always cut the wood afterwards. It's all gonna be bolted together so I can change it I guess...

Lil' Rob

The amount of bow the canoe has will be key, as well as placement of the supports. I have a 17' canoe and had it on top of my old truck ('04 Extended Cab with a cap). I used a product similar to these cushions to keep it off the cab and cap.

https://www.cabelas.com/product/Malone-Canoe-and-Kayak-Carrier-Blocks-and-Kits/1157039.uts?productVariantId=2876931&WT.tsrc=PPC&W T.mc_id=GoogleProductAds&WT.z_mc_id1=03141671&rid= 20&ds_rl=1252079&gclid=Cj0KCQjwv-DaBRCcARIsAI9sba8x0LQ3GQa8Et2wH1Tm6JPG6tyLImOEHoKT VaE0AZRzvew73nlXNcYaAtSZEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

With this setup, the back of the canoe was about a foot behind the cap, but I have bracket on it to mount a trolling motor, so I had a ratchet strap straight down from that bracket and around my hitch draw bar. The front of the canoe well out over my hood and because of the bow in the bow it came down well below the rear view mirror height. For the front, I had a ratchet strap around the canoe and through the cab. Make sure you have a twist in those straps exposed to the air, or you'll be listening to them vibrate and hum going down the road.

Unfortunately I never took any pix of that setup. I have not yet hauled this canoe with the new truck, so all this is something I have to think about when it comes time to do that, as I've got a crew cab with cap now.

Although my setup is different from what you are doing, you can still see what I am saying about positioning. You may want to consider having the rack you're going to build just be for the back above the bed and then use the cushions for the front? ..............missed where you said you had the moon roof. Because to the bow/curve in my canoe, the front cushions were all the way forward, just short of meeting the windshield.

BlackBoost

Yeah the bow on the ends is what has me concerned, and I think I'll just make it very tall (overkill) just to get it home and ensure it doesn't touch the front of the cab. I could always bring my drill with me to make new holes and reconfigure the crossbars when I'm picking it up so I only have to move the bolts holding it together...

Thanks for the info!