Bought this 2020 XLT 302A a few months ago. It is setting this code VERY randomly. Might do it twice in a week. May not do it for a month. It will set then the symptoms disappear and truck will go back to normal operation till the next event.
A full carmax report show that the truck was at the dealer several times in its life for conditions related to this issue in it’s lifetime such as traction control, etc that are turned off if you loose the TPS. I see that the accelerator pedal and connector has been replaced. Also a connector on the left from fender has been replaced as I see green wires on it and a taped up harness there. I feel that someone passed their problem on to me.
nontheless is this a common issue with these trucks and what is the best solution to head to? Googling shows may be petal. (Not likely now), throttle body, ecm, or loose connectin/compromised wire.

Update: I misspoke when I said Carmax report. I was able to download a full service history from Motorcraftservice. This detailed all the visits at dealerships. The vehicle had basically been at a dealer for 22 visits over its 5 year history. Everything from oil changes to tire rotations has been done at two or three dealerships. There were some visits that had not details but several complaining of ABS and stabiltrack errors. The first thing that happens when you get the P2138 code is it disables those systems + cruise control, hill start assist, and a couple of others that don't come to mind right now and you will get limp mode for throttle response for a bit. Letting the truck sit for a bit, or disconnecting the battery usually puts the codes into history and normal operation till the next time.

 

A throttle body failing, or failed, shares a lot of those symptoms but usually causes the truck to go into limp mode. There have been a few throttle pedal assembly replacements reported in the forum but not a lot. Is P2138 the only DTC?

 

It has gone into limp mode several times with lack of throttle response. It will clear if you shut it off for a while or disconnect the battery.

I am getting a couple of other DTCs but caused by my own fault. Not related to engine performance.
1. I added Morimoto XB head and tail lights(BLIS) and am getting some codes for front parking light outage, rear taillight turn and marker light outage.--The lights work perfectly, still getting the codes.
2. I changed the TPMS receiver to 902 MHz and bought 4 button remotes so I can remote start from the key fob--getting a code for transmitter code not recognized in the BCM; even though everything works correctly.
3. Changed DDM and PDM wiring harnesses to add power folding mirrors with BLIS---Getting a code U2010-switch illumination. I think for the window/mirror control switch which works fine but no illumination until you turn the ignition key on.

 

That really sounds like throttle body. Generally throttle bodies are not that expensive and fairly easy to replace.

 

I agree. Been doing a bunch of research online this evening. Seems like a fairly common problem. I will pick up an oem part tomorrow and throw it in. It would be great to finally get this resolved. Exact symptoms as a lot of others online.

 

Try this before you purchase the throttle body. It may help it may not but it's free.99 and takes just a few minutes.


https://www.f150ecoboost.net/threads...ustment.10325/

 

I have actually done that throttle calibration procedure a few times in the last couple of months. I have read at least 3 variations of the procedure. May or may not have achieved anything but still got the code and limp mode since then.

 

Well got the new throttle body from the dealer on Wednesday and installed it a couple of hours later. Not the worst job to do. Watched a couple of youtubes first but what I learned is it is a piece of cake if you first remove the fresh air crossover tube and then the boost tube and rubber coupler from the inlet of the throttle body. In fact, the clamp that holds the rubber coupler hose hides the bolts so you can't even get a socket on them until it has been removed. The Youtubes I saw none of them removed the intake tubing and just pried the TB out once the finally got the bolts out.
Once I got the TB bolted back in and tubing reinstalled I got in and fired her up. Let it idle for about 10 minutes and then took for a 25 mile drive. Of course I had disconnected the battery and did the jumper lead thing to discharge the stay alive memory before hand. Its a seat of the pants thing but the throttle response did seem much sharper and seems to run better. Time will tell whether its a cure for the P2138 as it has been such a random event, but the longest it has been is about 2 weeks so we will see.
A couple of pictures:
First Picture showing the accumulation behind the valve. This is a 2020 2.7L Ecoboost with 55K miles. Not horrible in my mind but definitely could use a cleaning. A piece of crud in there could have thrown the throttle plate off a little maybe. I thought about just pulling it and doing a thorough cleaning but the cost of a new one wasn't that bad ($280 +tax at the dealer) and wasn't worth trying and then having to take it out again to replace it.


Second picture showing the front of the throttle plate. You wouldn't suspect from this picture that there was any crud on the backside.

The last picture shining my Icon led work light through from front to back. There is a lot more gap there than I would have thought just looking from the front. Didn't fool with it at all that's just how it was when I shut the engine off and took the unit out.

 

@Butch88 Please be sure to le us know after a few more weeks. Feedback is imporrtant.

 

Well, that didn't take long. Driving back from fishing this morning towing the boat. 35 mph straight and level on a city street. P2138 pops up suddenly. Limp mode, Delete trailer blis, hill start assist, cruise control, abs, etc. After garaging the boat and restarting the truck all the symptoms are gone. Normal function again. It is an intermittent, momentary fault. Gotta be a bad or loose pin somewhere or "green crusties". I know what it is not-- bad pedal position sensor or throttle body. I recently saw a Youtube video by South Main Auto where he diagnosed the same symptoms caused by a bad radiator fan pulling down the 5 volt reference signal as the fan was on the same electrical supply as the TB( on a Chevy Trailblazer). The problem I have is that it is very momentary and if I take it into the dealer they are going to reset the codes and say "its working now, have a good day".