OEM Power Fold Running Boards installed on a XLT
12-13-2017, 02:04 PM
#1
OEM Power Fold Running Boards installed on a XLT
First, I want to thank Livinup for his help with this. His knowledge and always making himself available to bounce ideas off has been such a big help with this project and many others.
2015 XLT 302A F150.
I first went through all the wiring diagrams to see how the power running boards worked and to learn how I could build a wiring harness to make this as plug and play as possible. There are only three wires that you need to splice into on the factory cab harness. A power source wire and two Can Bus Medium Speed wires. After determining I might be able to make this work I sourced from salvage a set of power running boards, control module, two pigtails for the module, two pigtails for the running board motor and the two rubber grommets the goes in the hole in the cab going down to the running board motors. I attempted to find the correct color wiring that would match the factory wiring for the power running boards, I got close but came up a little sort for the harness I built.
The control module mounts on the back wall of the cab under the back window. The control module has two connectors for the respective running board. Connector C3313B and C3313A. I made the mistake thinking these are the same but there is a very small difference. Only one is available C3313B and the pigtail part number is WPT-1169. Connector C3313A is not available and I could only find it through salvage. The wiring harness I building I started from the control module and worked my way down each side of the truck. On the passenger side in the back corner of the cab is where I taped into the two CanBus Medium Speed wires. The Can Bus wires are running up to the receiver for the key fob to lock and unlock the truck and that receiver is next to the third brake light. In that same corner is a Ground that Is used for the factory cab harness. I had a old wiring harness from another mod I did that I re purposed the wiring and it also had a ground wire with a connector on it that worked perfectly on the factory ground in the back corner of the cab. I continued the wiring harness to follow the factory cab harness down the passenger side under the door sill plates. I just piggy backed on top of the factory harness that has a trough running down the side of the interior of the truck on both sides. The running board harness has five wires on their respective sides. There is also a power wire on the passenger side, but more on that later. On the Drivers side I ran the harness across the Back of the cab along where the rear sliding window cabling is run and then down the driver side of the cab along the door sill, again piggybacking the factory cab harness in the factory trough in the interior door sill. I finished up the wiring harness with the connectors for the running board motors. The pigtails for the running board motor is available for connector C3186 right side and C3185 left side part number WPT-971 for each one. The wiring harness exits the interior of the cab in the floor of the cab just in front of the front seats on both sides. It is about a two inch hole with a plastic plug in it that easily pops out. Back to the wire to power the running board system. In my quest to make this just like the factory did it, I had this idea that I would add the 30amp fuse in the factory location, spot number 50, in the fuse block. In reflection not sure this was a good idea to attempt because of the potential catastrophic damage that you might cause from working with the fuse block. If you don't have factory power running boards, spot 50 in the fuse block under the hood is empty. I bought a fuse block from salvage that was the same as the one in my truck so I could reverse engineer it and figure out how to get into it so I could add a new 30amp fused wire. The fuse block is in three parts. The cover, the block with all the wiring and the bottom tub that bolts to the truck and protects the wiring under the fuse block. Separating the fuse block from the bottom tub is a difficult task. There are 7 clips holding it down to the bottom tub. I used wooden popsicle sticks to hold the clips open while I pulled the fuse panel up and out of the bottom tub. I used a yellow wire with red stripe from the salvage fuse block with the proper connector that the 30amp fuse attaches to and added it to my fuse block in the factory running board spot 50. Now I had to run the new power wire through the cab in the same spot where all the cab wiring goes into the cab from the fuse block, it's on the passenger side of the fire wall. The big rubber grommet in the fire wall was difficult to get to from inside the cab because of the A/C box that's behind the dash on the passenger side. I spend some time carefully fishing the wire through the fire wall until I could get to it from inside the cab. I originally wanted to add this wire to the C265 connector in the passenger foot well just like the factory has it and then run it back to the running board module on the back wall but ran out of patience. Instead I just went past the C265 connector and ran it back to the module. In hindsight I might try and find a power wire in the factory cab harness along the passenger side and tap into that. It looks like in connector C265 pin 24 wire you could tap into but don't know for sure if it will work considering I took the more difficult route.
Lastly I made the forscan change to the IPC 720-07-01 xxx9 xxxx xxxx.
2015 XLT 302A F150.
I first went through all the wiring diagrams to see how the power running boards worked and to learn how I could build a wiring harness to make this as plug and play as possible. There are only three wires that you need to splice into on the factory cab harness. A power source wire and two Can Bus Medium Speed wires. After determining I might be able to make this work I sourced from salvage a set of power running boards, control module, two pigtails for the module, two pigtails for the running board motor and the two rubber grommets the goes in the hole in the cab going down to the running board motors. I attempted to find the correct color wiring that would match the factory wiring for the power running boards, I got close but came up a little sort for the harness I built.
The control module mounts on the back wall of the cab under the back window. The control module has two connectors for the respective running board. Connector C3313B and C3313A. I made the mistake thinking these are the same but there is a very small difference. Only one is available C3313B and the pigtail part number is WPT-1169. Connector C3313A is not available and I could only find it through salvage. The wiring harness I building I started from the control module and worked my way down each side of the truck. On the passenger side in the back corner of the cab is where I taped into the two CanBus Medium Speed wires. The Can Bus wires are running up to the receiver for the key fob to lock and unlock the truck and that receiver is next to the third brake light. In that same corner is a Ground that Is used for the factory cab harness. I had a old wiring harness from another mod I did that I re purposed the wiring and it also had a ground wire with a connector on it that worked perfectly on the factory ground in the back corner of the cab. I continued the wiring harness to follow the factory cab harness down the passenger side under the door sill plates. I just piggy backed on top of the factory harness that has a trough running down the side of the interior of the truck on both sides. The running board harness has five wires on their respective sides. There is also a power wire on the passenger side, but more on that later. On the Drivers side I ran the harness across the Back of the cab along where the rear sliding window cabling is run and then down the driver side of the cab along the door sill, again piggybacking the factory cab harness in the factory trough in the interior door sill. I finished up the wiring harness with the connectors for the running board motors. The pigtails for the running board motor is available for connector C3186 right side and C3185 left side part number WPT-971 for each one. The wiring harness exits the interior of the cab in the floor of the cab just in front of the front seats on both sides. It is about a two inch hole with a plastic plug in it that easily pops out. Back to the wire to power the running board system. In my quest to make this just like the factory did it, I had this idea that I would add the 30amp fuse in the factory location, spot number 50, in the fuse block. In reflection not sure this was a good idea to attempt because of the potential catastrophic damage that you might cause from working with the fuse block. If you don't have factory power running boards, spot 50 in the fuse block under the hood is empty. I bought a fuse block from salvage that was the same as the one in my truck so I could reverse engineer it and figure out how to get into it so I could add a new 30amp fused wire. The fuse block is in three parts. The cover, the block with all the wiring and the bottom tub that bolts to the truck and protects the wiring under the fuse block. Separating the fuse block from the bottom tub is a difficult task. There are 7 clips holding it down to the bottom tub. I used wooden popsicle sticks to hold the clips open while I pulled the fuse panel up and out of the bottom tub. I used a yellow wire with red stripe from the salvage fuse block with the proper connector that the 30amp fuse attaches to and added it to my fuse block in the factory running board spot 50. Now I had to run the new power wire through the cab in the same spot where all the cab wiring goes into the cab from the fuse block, it's on the passenger side of the fire wall. The big rubber grommet in the fire wall was difficult to get to from inside the cab because of the A/C box that's behind the dash on the passenger side. I spend some time carefully fishing the wire through the fire wall until I could get to it from inside the cab. I originally wanted to add this wire to the C265 connector in the passenger foot well just like the factory has it and then run it back to the running board module on the back wall but ran out of patience. Instead I just went past the C265 connector and ran it back to the module. In hindsight I might try and find a power wire in the factory cab harness along the passenger side and tap into that. It looks like in connector C265 pin 24 wire you could tap into but don't know for sure if it will work considering I took the more difficult route.
Lastly I made the forscan change to the IPC 720-07-01 xxx9 xxxx xxxx.
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Livnitup (12-21-2017)
12-16-2017, 05:35 PM
#4
I’m still thinking of replacing the cab harness like you have done.
12-16-2017, 08:29 PM
#5
Senior Member
Thanks good to know. Yea that body harness is pricey but it did allow me to do Sony HD/sub, heated cooled massage seats up front, heated in the back. Also power tow mirrors extend there also. It took me about little over three hours to change out. I did have to make a short harness to get audio to work for the dash XLT harness but you can also jump out the DSP connector a and b to get the speakers up and working with XLT ACM after that and not have the DSP Sony amp. And there are a few other changes but easy to do between the two harness.
12-19-2017, 04:01 PM
#7
I found cheap factory boards without the controller. I went the AMP-hybrid approach, and bought AMP's controller, wiring harness and the OBD-2 plug. I chose to buy different LED's, which saved a bit of money. $330 was the bill from AMP. Super easy install, and one of the best mods I've done.
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12-23-2017, 08:26 AM
#10
Curious. What is the advantage of going with the OE boards vs the AMP?