Steer clear of the Gorillas if you live in the rust belt, or any municipality that used corrosive substances for traction and snow melting purposes. They rust after a couple years and look like ******. McGard is the only way to go. They're one of the first things I replace on every new vehicle I buy. It's really cheap insurance. Oh, and you'll want to carry a 4-Way lug wrench with you, because the factory one won't fit the McGard's.

 

 

How does a 6 sided geometrical shape spin on a fractionally smaller 6 sided geometric shape? I can see a socket spinning if it is too large and the corners are rounded off the nut, especially a 12 point socket.

I rotated my tires myself to prevent someone taking an impact driver and rounding off the corners, since it happened before at the dealer. The original lug nuts are fine if you take care of them.

 

 

I had my 2002 F150 from new (2001) until 2016 and still had the original lug nuts. I live in the rust belt of US and drive in all conditions. The only issue I had with the lug nuts was the damage from the wrong tools being used. Perhaps the newer trucks have lower quality lug nuts than they did in 2001. I've had my 2016 two years this month and haven't had any issues with them yet.

 

LOL, been there, done that.

This will be repetitious, but it really happened. I spotted those 61148CH nuts for that same $12 price. So I called Gorilla, and asked the older-sounding lady that answered what the deal was with the cheap CH nuts.

Now the funny part. She said that the CH was an older model and has been superseded by the CX.

So, I asked, does the CH fit my truck, a 2016. She says "We highly recommend that you use the CX as they are the newest available." So I pressed, and asked if they would work. She says "We highly recommend that you use the CX as they are the newest available". Exact same words. So I was getting the idea that the CH was not a good idea., LOL.

Now, a few posts up, we get the warning from a poster about Gorilla nuts getting pitting.

Putting 2+2 together, I now have to wonder if those are the CH nuts that pitted, and that is why there is now a CX. We'll see, because the plating on the CX looks really good.

 

Hey, did you feel the lug nuts had 150 ft/lbs on them? I removed one yesterday (to measure it) from my new truck, and no way it had even close to 150. I estimate 100 at best. Just curious. And did you put 150 yourself?

Do you happen to have a p/n number? There're so many it's frustrating trying to determine if they're the right ones. Thanks. I live in the desert, so will think about it, mainly becuase it's idiotic they don't have the same size nut. The stock wrench is the same size as a Gorilla telescopic wrench, so it should take the same effort. I think it should stand the torqie, but yes, it looks like with that big square there, it's not the strongest, but the torque would be lateral to that; otherwise it'd crumble with much less than 150.

 

I can't speak to a 2002, but I can for a 2010. The lug nuts themselves aren't the problem. It is the brushed "cap" that covers the lug nut. This cap swells over time and consequently a standard 22mm socket may or may not fit. So you either have to hammer the socket on, OR try a larger socket, which can cause the lug nut cap to become rounded if the lug nut is on tight.

If you haven't experienced this yet on your 2016, you're lucky. Hopefully your luck won't run out on a dark road with a flat tire. I replaced the lug nuts on my 2018 with Gorilla lug nuts the first month I owned the truck.

 

To answer the torque question above, I did tighten mine to the factory spec when removing winter wheels, and it doesn't seem as tight as that spec would suggest, imo--the amount of fastener movement to get from 100 to 150 ft-lbs is relatively small, and getting to 150 with my torque wrench didn't seem to be far beyond the German shade tree standard of gutentight.

I also didn't feel like the factory tightness was clearly lower when swapping a flat; unless there was a huge difference, though, it wouldn't be particularly conclusive because the torque applied to a fastener to tighten it may be different than the torque required to loosen it (and vice versa).

 

I changed my lug nuts today from the factory nuts to Gorillas. The factory nuts I removed were not even close to the spec torque. In fact I found them so easy to remove that I checked a few of them and they were at 80-90 ft-lb. Granted, these were last torqued by my dealer after a tire rotation a couple thousand miles ago. There was no danger of them loosening themselves, but the lower fastening torque probably explains why they were still in very good shape. I torqued the Gorillas to 125 ft-lbs, and that's pretty darned tight. I'll check them again in a few days.

My 13/16" sockets fit the Gorillas perfectly, but wouldn't fit the factory nuts. I used the OEM lug wrench to remove them. I underestimated the stoutness of the lug wrench. It's plenty strong if used correctly. I actually think it would work ok for the Gorillas, but next time I'm around Harbor Freight I'll pick up a cheap 1/2" drive breaker bar to leave in the truck with a 13/16" socket.