LED lights without load resistor
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Joined: Oct 2018
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From: Michigan
LED lights without load resistor
I put full LED exterior (everything but actual high and low headlights at least, but all flashers, brakes, etc).
I did not install resistors. I turned off hyperflash with Forscan - I did it by turning off the bad bulb notification.
BUT - I’m reading online that LED’s without resistors could be bad. That too much power to them could kill them in an instant.
Do I need to worry about this with this truck? 2016 that did not come factory with LED lights.
Is there a better way to program with Forscan? Like instead of turning off the bad bulb indicator, could I instead program to send proper voltage to the LED’s?
I searched forums first. Didn’t see the answers.
Thanks in advance folks.
I did not install resistors. I turned off hyperflash with Forscan - I did it by turning off the bad bulb notification.
BUT - I’m reading online that LED’s without resistors could be bad. That too much power to them could kill them in an instant.
Do I need to worry about this with this truck? 2016 that did not come factory with LED lights.
Is there a better way to program with Forscan? Like instead of turning off the bad bulb indicator, could I instead program to send proper voltage to the LED’s?
I searched forums first. Didn’t see the answers.
Thanks in advance folks.
Last edited by First SCREW; Oct 27, 2018 at 09:01 PM. Reason: Changing “transistor” to “resistor”.
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The resistor isn't dropping the voltage, it's in parallel with the LED to increase the current consumption, so the bulb out notification always sees proper load. If you aren't usually totally ****-tier LEDs, they will have internal voltage regulation and be designed to handle the voltage range that a vehicle will produce.
In short - use decent LEDs, don't worry about resistors, turn off bulb out notification, and be happy.
In short - use decent LEDs, don't worry about resistors, turn off bulb out notification, and be happy.
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Member
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 30
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From: Michigan
The resistor isn't dropping the voltage, it's in parallel with the LED to increase the current consumption, so the bulb out notification always sees proper load. If you aren't usually totally ****-tier LEDs, they will have internal voltage regulation and be designed to handle the voltage range that a vehicle will produce.
In short - use decent LEDs, don't worry about resistors, turn off bulb out notification, and be happy.
In short - use decent LEDs, don't worry about resistors, turn off bulb out notification, and be happy.
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 5,403
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From: Ohio
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From: Michigan
Bought pretty much the entire package, minus the LED high and low beams. All blinkers, stop, fog, plate, etc. When you search their site by your truck, it’ll only turn up the options available. As I recall, only one option available for each light I bought. Not cheap - couple hundred I think (the front blinker, rear blinker, and fogs are like $80 each set). But I read around and they seem to be legit and back their products. Figured if I’m keeping truck until wheels come off, drop in the hat over time.
No issues so far. Only installed since the weekend though. Super bright. I’m going to need headlights now, fogs are so bright.
No issues so far. Only installed since the weekend though. Super bright. I’m going to need headlights now, fogs are so bright.
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From: Michigan
Adding: I’ve done cheaper LED’s in the past on other vehicles. They worked fine. But I can tell these lights from F150LEDs are just better made. And the small touches from how they communicate (order confirmed, order shipped, and include a “thank you” video), they even include a little snack in the package. Small stuff that adds up I guess.
You can get cheaper for sure. But for the last bulbs I may ever buy for this truck, I figured why not.
You can get cheaper for sure. But for the last bulbs I may ever buy for this truck, I figured why not.
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Joined: May 2015
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From: Ohio
Bought pretty much the entire package, minus the LED high and low beams. All blinkers, stop, fog, plate, etc. When you search their site by your truck, it’ll only turn up the options available. As I recall, only one option available for each light I bought. Not cheap - couple hundred I think (the front blinker, rear blinker, and fogs are like $80 each set). But I read around and they seem to be legit and back their products. Figured if I’m keeping truck until wheels come off, drop in the hat over time.
No issues so far. Only installed since the weekend though. Super bright. I’m going to need headlights now, fogs are so bright.
I have a 2018 so the 4 bulb taillight set up in the back is a little more pricey. I have the cargo, third brake light and tag lights now.
I have not been able to find a good video showing how to take the headlamp assemblies out of a 2018 or I would most likely get the headlamp bulbs as well.
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From: Michigan
Thank you. I am going to order everything. I think I am going to skip the headlights but wanted to know someones honest opinion of the front and rear turns signals.
I have a 2018 so the 4 bulb taillight set up in the back is a little more pricey. I have the cargo, third brake light and tag lights now.
I have not been able to find a good video showing how to take the headlamp assemblies out of a 2018 or I would most likely get the headlamp bulbs as well.
I have a 2018 so the 4 bulb taillight set up in the back is a little more pricey. I have the cargo, third brake light and tag lights now.
I have not been able to find a good video showing how to take the headlamp assemblies out of a 2018 or I would most likely get the headlamp bulbs as well.
I will though say that the online “how to’s” make it look a lot faster. Be very careful when you are prying fender trim from fender - there are a couple small clips that are fragile. And trust me on this: pop them out (one yellow and one white) of whatever part they are stuck in before you go to reattach fender trim. They need to sit in a groove on the fender. I found it easier to seat them in the fender groove first and then press them back through the clip hole. This may not make sense until you actually see it. But when you see it you’ll understand I think.
And there’s a real son of a gun 10mm buried far back in the front of assembly (between grill and light). Make sure you’ve got a long extension for your ratchet - at least a foot - otherwise it’ll take you about 20 mins to torque it out, and another 20 in. My extension was about 2” short so I spent about 80 mins for two of these suckers moving about 1/10th of a turn at a time, space is so tight. Other than those two things, pretty simple job.
I kept the halogen bulbs for projectors, all else is LED. I know a lot of people say the halogen sucks, but I find (so far) that they are fine; after they are properly adjusted. In combo with LED floods, more than enough light.
Last edited by First SCREW; Nov 5, 2018 at 06:47 PM.