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Vertical Aim Adjustment
1. Park the vehicle directly in front of a wall or screen on a level surface,
approximately 25 feet (7.6 meters) away.
• (A) 8 feet (2.4 meters)
• (B) Center height of lamp to
ground
• (C) 25 feet (7.6 meters)
• (D) Horizontal reference line
2. Measure the height from the center of your headlamp (indicated by
a 3.0 millimeter circle on the lens) to the ground and mark an 8 foot
(2.4 meter) horizontal reference line on the vertical wall or screen at
this height (a piece of masking tape works well).
3. Turn on the low beam headlamps to illuminate the wall or screen and
open the hood. Cover one of the headlamps so no light hits the wall.
For Vehicles With Halogen Headlamps:
On the wall or screen you will
observe a light pattern with a
distinct horizontal edge towards
the right. If this edge is not at the
horizontal reference line, the beam
will need to be adjusted so the
edge is at the same height as the
horizontal reference line.
For Vehicles With HID Headlamps:
There is a distinct cut-off (change
from light to dark) in the left
portion of the beam pattern. The
top edge of this cut-off should be
positioned 2 inches (5 centimeters)
below the horizontal reference line.
4. Locate the vertical adjuster on
each headlamp. Use a #2 Phillips
screwdriver to turn the adjuster
either counterclockwise or
clockwise in order to adjust the
vertical aim of the headlamp.
5. Repeat Steps 3–4 for the other
headlamp.
6. Close the hood and turn off the
lamps.
HORIZONTAL AIM IS NOT REQUIRED FOR THIS VEHICLE AND IS
NOT ADJUSTABLE.
Last edited by Ricktwuhk; Mar 31, 2016 at 05:45 AM.
Mine were 4 inches high at 25 feet from the factory. Was a nice surprise taking the new truck on a road trip and having literally every vehicle flash me their high's when I'm using low's and no fogs
Mine were 4 inches high at 25 feet from the factory. Was a nice surprise taking the new truck on a road trip and having literally every vehicle flash me their high's when I'm using low's and no fogs
Same here - mine were too high from factory and it seemed to **** a lot of people off! I will be adjusting before the next trip...
I had my truck recently leveled and have yet to adjust my lights. Not helpful as they are HID. Plus the fact that i have 4 driving lights to assist in blindness.
glad to see people are paying attention to this important performance aspect of their vehicles. I feel that Ford puts a lot of slack into the setting (aims them down) as we all know the rear ends sit high and they expect that sooner or later your going to load up and pull a trailer, bringing the lights up to the actual legal setting. I was disappointed in my dims when I first got my truck and felt they were really weak. I was later surprised how much they came up after installing my truck cap. With that in mind... Why not set your lights for your regular driving and then just a little bit down in case you haul an occasional light load.
if your not sure your headlights are okay, try this.... come up close on the truck in front of you at the stop light. watch the spot on the tailgate from your lights. when he pulls away and your lights climb up onto the back of his cab, you need to align/level out your headlights. The line should stay the same or drop.
FYI: I had to re-read that earlier alignment post a couple times. is the following paraphrase correct...
mark a horizontal line 8 feet long on the wall, this line should be the same height from the ground as measured from the circle on your headlights to the ground. Back up 25 feet and turn the adjustment ***** until the headlights remain the same or below this.
I understand this to be the maximum height and any load you carry will bring them up annoying oncoming traffic.
Adjusting Headlights After installing Lift or Lowering Kits
I installed 1-1/2" rear lowering shackles on my 2015 SCAB 2WD. I had intended to mark the walls before installing shackles so I could have a target to adjust my headlights back to after the install. But got started on removing shackles and forgot. I also didn't have a flat driveway to give me a 25' level beam projection per the OEM adjustment procedure. So here's what I did.
Post shackle install, I parked the truck head in into my garage as far back as I could, this allowing the truck to sit level on the wheels. I then positioned my floor Jac rear center under the receiver hitch and jacked up the rear 1-1/2". This height I measured at the rear fender well. This I assumed put the truck back to its original rear height before shackle install.
The front headlights were only about 4 feet from the front wall. But with the lights on, this is where their beams would project with the truck at its original height. I then marked the top of the beams for both the headlights and fog lights with masking tape.
Then I removed the floor jack from beneath the receiver hitch, allowing the truck to now sit at its new lowered rear height. Next I adjusted (lowered) the headlights and fog lights to match the masking tape on the wall. DONE
Of course, the best way when you don't have 25 feet per the OEM instructions is to mark your wall at whatever distance you have before doing the leveling modification. This should get you close enough.
I installed 1-1/2" rear lowering shackles on my 2015 SCAB 2WD. I had intended to mark the walls before installing shackles so I could have a target to adjust my headlights back to after the install. But got started on removing shackles and forgot. I also didn't have a flat driveway to give me a 25' level beam projection per the OEM adjustment procedure. So here's what I did.
Post shackle install, I parked the truck head in into my garage as far back as I could, this allowing the truck to sit level on the wheels. I then positioned my floor Jac rear center under the receiver hitch and jacked up the rear 1-1/2". This height I measured at the rear fender well. This I assumed put the truck back to its original rear height before shackle install.
The front headlights were only about 4 feet from the front wall. But with the lights on, this is where their beams would project with the truck at its original height. I then marked the top of the beams for both the headlights and fog lights with masking tape.
Then I removed the floor jack from beneath the receiver hitch, allowing the truck to now sit at its new lowered rear height. Next I adjusted (lowered) the headlights and fog lights to match the masking tape on the wall. DONE
Of course, the best way when you don't have 25 feet per the OEM instructions is to mark your wall at whatever distance you have before doing the leveling modification. This should get you close enough.