Go Pro IWE
01-17-2019, 11:43 PM
#21
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Figured I’d post a video of the clicking in this thread so that reference makes sense.
Video is taken with my phone just holding it down around the floor in different areas while just driving the truck like normal. You would be able to hear it if the phone was in the back seat but I was trying to isolate an area that got louder when I took a lot of these videos
.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wp3CgS...ature=youtu.be
Video is taken with my phone just holding it down around the floor in different areas while just driving the truck like normal. You would be able to hear it if the phone was in the back seat but I was trying to isolate an area that got louder when I took a lot of these videos
.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wp3CgS...ature=youtu.be
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johnday in BFE (01-18-2019)
01-18-2019, 04:40 AM
#22
Old Fart
Zack my intent was to see if switching to 4A happened at the time that you actually made the switch. Too see if it was actually responding as expected. Example: At 5:20 I switched to 4A and at 6:18 I switched to 4H and at 7:25 I switched back to 2H. Compare your stopwatch times with the video timeline. Sounds like something you don't want to be playing with at the moment.
Was also curious how you mounted the camera, suction cup, magnet or whatever and where?
Was also curious how you mounted the camera, suction cup, magnet or whatever and where?
01-18-2019, 05:56 AM
#23
Mark
iTrader: (1)
Unless something has changed with the 2018's there is always drive power to the front axles. The IWE's control 2wd or 4wd. Noise during slow figure eights usually mean CV joints and noise during heavy acceleration(loss of the vacuum supply) means IWE or related components. There is also a TSB related to IWE noise while in 2wd 18-2273.
01-18-2019, 07:05 AM
#24
Senior Member
I was always under the assumption that the axle would spin just from the slight drag from the oil in the TC. There would be no power to shaft or disconnected hub, but it would still spin and not be stationary?
01-18-2019, 11:15 AM
#25
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I guess the only way to confirm that would be when they jack it up and while the truck is turned on someone holds the shaft while someone spins the wheel to see if they are independent. You may be right as I could see in the above scenario even if hubs were not locked that if you didn’t hold the shaft and tried turning the wheel there may be some natural grab between the two and both may turn.
01-18-2019, 07:02 PM
#26
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Zack my intent was to see if switching to 4A happened at the time that you actually made the switch. Too see if it was actually responding as expected. Example: At 5:20 I switched to 4A and at 6:18 I switched to 4H and at 7:25 I switched back to 2H. Compare your stopwatch times with the video timeline. Sounds like something you don't want to be playing with at the moment.
Was also curious how you mounted the camera, suction cup, magnet or whatever and where?
Was also curious how you mounted the camera, suction cup, magnet or whatever and where?
But I did discover something else out in the parking lot. I kept trying to engage 4H in the gravel to see if I was kicking rocks with my driveer side tire turned out. It did not seem to be engaging into 4wd drive. At least not to that wheel but I could be wrong. I only heard noise in the back but no noise to the front. No vacuum release noise or anything. But the strange thing is then I tried to go down the road in 2wd and it felt as if it was in 4h. And nothing I did could get it out. I had almost no acceleration like I was dragging an elephant and everything was stiff. I tried switching back to the 4 wheel drives and back to 2h. Reversing, going to neutral, going forward, but nothing worked to get the dragging feeling gone. I even shut the truck off and back on and still felt locked up. Wheels were hot up front to. Anyway, after getting it back on the lift and tires free, 4wd seemed to be working and when we got back down on the ground the truck no longer felt locked in and dragging. It was back to normal. So whatever is going on is also playing havoc on 4wd shifts. If the driver side hub is remaining locked and the passenger side isn’t, I wonder if that can cause issues with getting into 4wd or out of it.
01-18-2019, 07:27 PM
#27
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Well hhmmm. Both front wheels hot, felt like were dragging an elephant, clicking. ABS Sensor? Has anyone tried pulling any codes? Pending codes? I'm afraid I'm just throwing out thoughts.
When you switch to 4A/4H, it's pretty hard to hear vacuum release. I was screwing around with mine, and the only thing I heard was the solenoid click, ambient temp was at least in the 70'sF.
I'm running out of ideas here, but now I'll be thinking some more.
When you switch to 4A/4H, it's pretty hard to hear vacuum release. I was screwing around with mine, and the only thing I heard was the solenoid click, ambient temp was at least in the 70'sF.
I'm running out of ideas here, but now I'll be thinking some more.
01-18-2019, 09:07 PM
#28
It is not responding well. I won’t comment on my service experience today because it wasn’t even a service experience and wouldn’t call it that. A real mechanic will be on it Monday though.
But I did discover something else out in the parking lot. I kept trying to engage 4H in the gravel to see if I was kicking rocks with my driveer side tire turned out. It did not seem to be engaging into 4wd drive. At least not to that wheel but I could be wrong. I only heard noise in the back but no noise to the front. No vacuum release noise or anything. But the strange thing is then I tried to go down the road in 2wd and it felt as if it was in 4h. And nothing I did could get it out. I had almost no acceleration like I was dragging an elephant and everything was stiff. I tried switching back to the 4 wheel drives and back to 2h. Reversing, going to neutral, going forward, but nothing worked to get the dragging feeling gone. I even shut the truck off and back on and still felt locked up. Wheels were hot up front to. Anyway, after getting it back on the lift and tires free, 4wd seemed to be working and when we got back down on the ground the truck no longer felt locked in and dragging. It was back to normal. So whatever is going on is also playing havoc on 4wd shifts. If the driver side hub is remaining locked and the passenger side isn’t, I wonder if that can cause issues with getting into 4wd or out of it.
01-18-2019, 09:20 PM
#29
Yep, the 2014 and older had an AWD option transfer case and all of the F150’s in our fleet have this. I thought they were all built that way, go figure. No issues with my 2018 so far and I have not had it on the lift yet to look around. Not much help to this thread, but did learn something.
All Wheel Drive (AWD)
The all wheel drive (AWD) consists of the following components:
[img]PicExportError[/img] Mode select switch (MSS)
[img]PicExportError[/img] PCM/4X4 control module
[img]PicExportError[/img] IWEs
The Borg-Warner one-speed torque-on-demand (TOD) transfer case is a 3-piece aluminium design. The transfer case is equipped with an internal electromagnetic clutch. The unit transfers engine power from the transmission to the front and rear axles. Under normal driving conditions, the unit is in AWD, but when desired, the operator may shift into four wheel drive high (4H). The transfer case is shifted electronically. The IWE's contain an internal spring keeping the front hubs engaged to the front halfshafts at all times. The unit is lubricated by a positive displacement fluid pump that channels fluid flow through holes in the rear output shaft.
All Wheel Drive (AWD)
The all wheel drive (AWD) consists of the following components:
[img]PicExportError[/img] Mode select switch (MSS)
[img]PicExportError[/img] PCM/4X4 control module
[img]PicExportError[/img] IWEs
The Borg-Warner one-speed torque-on-demand (TOD) transfer case is a 3-piece aluminium design. The transfer case is equipped with an internal electromagnetic clutch. The unit transfers engine power from the transmission to the front and rear axles. Under normal driving conditions, the unit is in AWD, but when desired, the operator may shift into four wheel drive high (4H). The transfer case is shifted electronically. The IWE's contain an internal spring keeping the front hubs engaged to the front halfshafts at all times. The unit is lubricated by a positive displacement fluid pump that channels fluid flow through holes in the rear output shaft.
01-18-2019, 09:55 PM
#30
Senior Member
Thread Starter
When you say "heard noise in the back", do you mean that you heard one of the rear wheels slipping on the gravel? If so, that means one of the fronts and the rear wheels are locked together. I would suspect, if I am right on this, that you have one IWE that doesn't engage/disengage smoothly. It could be that it won't engage on its own with just the spring pushing on it but, as the wheel turns it slowly engages/disengages. I suspect you have a bad IWE and hopefully not 2.
As far as the spinning that was me trying to see if it was actually in 4wd when I selected it. I was in a gravel lot and at a stop I turned the wheel out and was giving it gas. The back wheels were slipping in the gravel with obvious traction but I never really saw the fronts do anything but push gravel due to the wheel angle and push at the rear or they just rolled a bit. I just assumed I would be able to get some slippage up front with the wheel in question(driver front) on gravel if I actually had drive to the front. They didn’t seem to have power up front. But that’s before I ended up feeling like I couldn’t get out of 4wd after playing around like this when I eventually was just trying to go back to 2h(acceleration sucked, truck felt heavy and noisy, very stiff)