Go Pro IWE
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Been a lot of posts on here lately about 4WD related issues...
In one of the threads, someone even posted a clip from the owners manual regarding a front differential warm-up strategy that is used in these trucks. In essence the IWE's are engaged for the first 2 miles of a trip in cold weather.
That said... it's possible you're having IWE problems, but it doesn't seem like there's enough data to go on just yet.
In general, when you're in 2WD mode, the 4WD system should provide vacuum to both IWE's which disengages them. in 4WD mode, vacuum is removed, and the IWE's are engaged, locking the front wheels to the front axle shafts. This is also the case when you shut off your truck (vacuum is lost).
What trim level do you have? If you have a lariat or above, try putting it in 4A and see if the sound that you're hearing stops. If so, I'd read up on the other IWE related posts. Tons of good info, and the entire system is covered in great detail, including part numbers, services bulletins, etc.
If there's a clicking hub in the video, I didn't hear it.
In one of the threads, someone even posted a clip from the owners manual regarding a front differential warm-up strategy that is used in these trucks. In essence the IWE's are engaged for the first 2 miles of a trip in cold weather.
That said... it's possible you're having IWE problems, but it doesn't seem like there's enough data to go on just yet.
In general, when you're in 2WD mode, the 4WD system should provide vacuum to both IWE's which disengages them. in 4WD mode, vacuum is removed, and the IWE's are engaged, locking the front wheels to the front axle shafts. This is also the case when you shut off your truck (vacuum is lost).
What trim level do you have? If you have a lariat or above, try putting it in 4A and see if the sound that you're hearing stops. If so, I'd read up on the other IWE related posts. Tons of good info, and the entire system is covered in great detail, including part numbers, services bulletins, etc.
If there's a clicking hub in the video, I didn't hear it.
But now I know why I can hear the screwed up cv even when I’m in 2wd. Because the hubs are locked in and turning them. God knows how many screwed up things there are now.
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
OP, was the video shot in cooler temps around freezing or below? Can't say for sure, but it did sound almost like you had an IWE grinding, and the half shaft turning is telling me it was being driven by the IWE.
At freezing or below, the system tells the IWEs to lock in to warm front diff, for a distance of about 2 miles. It will also cycle into that each time you cycle the key if temps are still low.
How the hell do you bust a stud off the CV joint when reinstalling the spindle nut? I'm assuming you meant spindle nut, instead of axle nut.
At freezing or below, the system tells the IWEs to lock in to warm front diff, for a distance of about 2 miles. It will also cycle into that each time you cycle the key if temps are still low.
How the hell do you bust a stud off the CV joint when reinstalling the spindle nut? I'm assuming you meant spindle nut, instead of axle nut.
I do know about the warm up hub lock. But what’s funny is I don’t hear the cv clicks in the morning when it’s cold and at a time when the hubs might suppose to be locked when all other times of the day I hear the clicks and the hubs are locked when not suppose to be.
I have had all last weekend and this week to wait on my appointment tomorrow so I’ve been checking stuff out myself. I started wondering why I even heard a bad cv in 2wd in the first place. If hubs were working I probably wouldn’t have heard clicking until one day when I went in 4wd or 4A. So I haven’t put the go pro on it in the mornings to see what it’s doing yet since this has all been tested and realized with the hubs just today. But now I’m very curious why during a cold morning I’m not hearing the cv clicking and if they are not turning because my hubs are locked which would be contrary to the only time they might “suppose to be” turning during the warm up hub lock period. Maybe the trucks doing the opposite because of the issue of the iwe being messed up or it’s possible when everything is cold the bearings smacking noise in the cv aren’t moving around as much yet and sticking. Without knowing exactly what damage is done to the CV to cause the clicking its hard to know yet. But I’m almost fully expecting tomorrow morning to find out the hubs are not locked first thing in the morning, thus no damaged cv joint spin and no clicks heard.
But one thing is for sure in that the hubs are locked when the truck is well past any warm up but tomorrow I will be mounting the camera to see why the cv might be quiet during that 4 mile drive in to work when the hubs are quite possibly suppose to be locked anyway during that time.
Last edited by Zack23434; 01-17-2019 at 08:13 PM.
#13
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I'm thinking possibly you'll find the inside of the IWE FUBARed. The gears in maybe a few different pieces. During that warmup period, there may be enough pressure applied, to more/less, stop the clicking. Then when the pressure is released, and the gear pulls out, the pieces, some of them, get bound up enough to be able to turn the halfshaft, and the rest are loose enough to produce the clicking.
Is this an actual Ford dealer? Geez, you'd think they'd know to easily and correctly repair the original problem.
When they "fix" whatever is wrong, see if you can inspect the bad parts. I'd really like to know just what is wrong.
Is this an actual Ford dealer? Geez, you'd think they'd know to easily and correctly repair the original problem.
When they "fix" whatever is wrong, see if you can inspect the bad parts. I'd really like to know just what is wrong.
#15
Old Fart
Zack would please run that test again?
This time let it run for at least 10 minutes. Should get you past the warm up period after at least 5 minutes. And then keeping a record of times, go from 2H to 4A and then 4A to 4H. Start a stop watch when you press the record button. Don't go over 40 mph when switching to 4H though.
I would also like to know how you mounted the camera. A picture of the setup would be great.
Thanks
This time let it run for at least 10 minutes. Should get you past the warm up period after at least 5 minutes. And then keeping a record of times, go from 2H to 4A and then 4A to 4H. Start a stop watch when you press the record button. Don't go over 40 mph when switching to 4H though.
I would also like to know how you mounted the camera. A picture of the setup would be great.
Thanks
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I'm thinking possibly you'll find the inside of the IWE FUBARed. The gears in maybe a few different pieces. During that warmup period, there may be enough pressure applied, to more/less, stop the clicking. Then when the pressure is released, and the gear pulls out, the pieces, some of them, get bound up enough to be able to turn the halfshaft, and the rest are loose enough to produce the clicking.
Is this an actual Ford dealer? Geez, you'd think they'd know to easily and correctly repair the original problem.
When they "fix" whatever is wrong, see if you can inspect the bad parts. I'd really like to know just what is wrong.
Is this an actual Ford dealer? Geez, you'd think they'd know to easily and correctly repair the original problem.
When they "fix" whatever is wrong, see if you can inspect the bad parts. I'd really like to know just what is wrong.
The one part of that theory I’m still trying to picture is where is more pressure coming from during that warm up? If the trucks sending signals to engage the hubs for a warm up protocol it would be cutting vacuum. If I put it in 4A I still hear it so I know clicking doesn’t stop when the hubs are suppose to be locked. Do you think that warm up protocol is so instantaneous when the truck cuts on that no vaccum drawl even ever touches the actuators from just turning on the truck in 2wd? I was thinking vacuum probably would start as normal and when you put it gear the warm up protocol would then take over. But if not and it’s instant I guess any peices your talking about would have had time to settle in the cold until the next morning.
Whats interesting is that originally when the clicks got real bad and non stop every drive for a couple days I decided I was going to park the truck and wait for the appointment and it set for 3 days. When I decided on last Sunday to go pick it up from the dealership parking lot and bring back home to check some stuff I read about, the noise was silent and I drove around for 15 miles trying to see if it was gonna come back. It was silent the following morning to work also. Then I jump in to go to lunch and bam it’s back to its clickly normal self. Maybe sitting long enough helps to keep any pecies together idk. That was the pattern with it, you would either hear it an entire drive or not hear it for an entire drive. But now even on the last two silent cold mornings I’ve eventually heard it began as I got fairly close to work.
Who knows I just hope it gets fixed and everything back together properly and that the tech understands what they were and why they happened so more issues spin up from installing parts and putting things back together properly.
Last edited by Zack23434; 01-17-2019 at 10:18 PM.
#17
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Good point about 4A, I must have missed that. When vacuum drops off, spring pressure pushes the actuator in. IIRC, it's 7"hg minimum to hold the IWEs disengaged
Another good thought about the auto engage when cold, I don't know if it's instantaneous or happens when it's put in gear, guess I'll have to search for that, I want to know now.
I can say, that watching your video with the halfshaft turning, and obvious you weren't in 4X4, that something is going on with that IWE. Just to be clear, the other side isn't turning? With vacuum on, you should be able to turn it, maybe need to use a pipewrench, but it should turn.
With what you've described, in the other thread as well, it wouldn't surprise me what's found, up to and including a wheel bearing.
When you do find out tomorrow, please let us know.
Another good thought about the auto engage when cold, I don't know if it's instantaneous or happens when it's put in gear, guess I'll have to search for that, I want to know now.
I can say, that watching your video with the halfshaft turning, and obvious you weren't in 4X4, that something is going on with that IWE. Just to be clear, the other side isn't turning? With vacuum on, you should be able to turn it, maybe need to use a pipewrench, but it should turn.
With what you've described, in the other thread as well, it wouldn't surprise me what's found, up to and including a wheel bearing.
When you do find out tomorrow, please let us know.
#18
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Zack would please run that test again?
This time let it run for at least 10 minutes. Should get you past the warm up period after at least 5 minutes. And then keeping a record of times, go from 2H to 4A and then 4A to 4H. Start a stop watch when you press the record button. Don't go over 40 mph when switching to 4H though.
I would also like to know how you mounted the camera. A picture of the setup would be great.
Thanks
This time let it run for at least 10 minutes. Should get you past the warm up period after at least 5 minutes. And then keeping a record of times, go from 2H to 4A and then 4A to 4H. Start a stop watch when you press the record button. Don't go over 40 mph when switching to 4H though.
I would also like to know how you mounted the camera. A picture of the setup would be great.
Thanks
I’m curious what you at trying to see with shifts 2h to 4a and then 4h? I forgot to mention one night I was driving around frustrated with my brand new truck and the clicks under my feet, I did shift to 4a and 4h to see if noise stopped(it doesn’t) and after being a little aggressive with it testing in those drives because things just feel funny(now I know why), but still below speed requirements I switched it back to 2h as I was on a ramp for a coming 70mph hwy merge I went back to 2h with my foot off the gas and somewhere between that and then going to accelerate the passenger side went nuts for a short burst with the sound I hear people describe as the IWE spoke and card noise. It startled me enough where I don’t even remember exactly what I did beside slow down but it stopped quickly. I figured it was either related to the click on the driver side or me being to quick but that’s the only time I ever heard anything on that side. She was espeically clicky with me that night until we got home. Haven’t touched 4wd drive sense as I didn’t want to make anything worse if it was related to my click issue.
I can mount that Go Pro just about anywhere if you tell me what you might be wanting to Hoan in on. If you want to hear the clicks I can send you enough videos to drive you crazy. They are very easy to hear in my videos from the cab.
#19
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I think that is an interesting thought. And I would honestly be happy if the clicking was not the replaced cv shaft and all the issues were localized at the actuators to the hubs. One less thing to fix and go wrong.
The one part of that theory I’m still trying to picture is where is more pressure coming from during that warm up? If the trucks sending signals to engage the hubs for a warm up protocol it would be cutting vacuum. If I put it in 4A I still hear it so I know clicking doesn’t stop when the hubs are suppose to be locked. Do you think that warm up protocol is so instantaneous when the truck cuts on that no vaccum drawl even ever touches the actuators from just turning on the truck in 2wd? I was thinking vacuum probably would start as normal and when you put it gear the warm up protocol would then take over. But if not and it’s instant I guess any peices your talking about would have had time to settle in the cold until the next morning.
Whats interesting is that originally when the clicks got real bad and non stop every drive for a couple days I decided I was going to park the truck and wait for the appointment and it set for 3 days. When I decided on last Sunday to go pick it up from the dealership parking lot and bring back home to check some stuff I read about, the noise was silent and I drove around for 15 miles trying to see if it was gonna come back. It was silent the following morning to work also. Then I jump in to go to lunch and bam it’s back to its clickly normal self. Maybe sitting long enough helps to keep any pecies together idk. That was the pattern with it, you would either hear it an entire drive or not hear it for an entire drive. But now even on the last two silent cold mornings I’ve eventually heard it began as I got fairly close to work.
Who knows I just hope it gets fixed and everything back together properly and that the tech understands what they were and why they happened so more issues spin up from installing parts and putting things back together properly.
Good point about 4A, I must have missed that. When vacuum drops off, spring pressure pushes the actuator in. IIRC, it's 7"hg minimum to hold the IWEs disengaged
Another good thought about the auto engage when cold, I don't know if it's instantaneous or happens when it's put in gear, guess I'll have to search for that, I want to know now.
I can say, that watching your video with the halfshaft turning, and obvious you weren't in 4X4, that something is going on with that IWE. Just to be clear, the other side isn't turning? With vacuum on, you should be able to turn it, maybe need to use a pipewrench, but it should turn.
With what you've described, in the other thread as well, it wouldn't surprise me what's found, up to and including a wheel bearing.
When you do find out tomorrow, please let us know.
Another good thought about the auto engage when cold, I don't know if it's instantaneous or happens when it's put in gear, guess I'll have to search for that, I want to know now.
I can say, that watching your video with the halfshaft turning, and obvious you weren't in 4X4, that something is going on with that IWE. Just to be clear, the other side isn't turning? With vacuum on, you should be able to turn it, maybe need to use a pipewrench, but it should turn.
With what you've described, in the other thread as well, it wouldn't surprise me what's found, up to and including a wheel bearing.
When you do find out tomorrow, please let us know.
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johnday in BFE (01-18-2019)
#20
Unless something has changed with the 2018's there is always drive power to the front axles. The IWE's control 2wd or 4wd. Noise during slow figure eights usually mean CV joints and noise during heavy acceleration(loss of the vacuum supply) means IWE or related components. There is also a TSB related to IWE noise while in 2wd 18-2273.