I realize I'm new guy here, but how many times do I have to say that I am getting an extended cab short bed lariat, and need a hidden winch which drives using a motor without an intercooler eating up space? I'm simply trying to select options to maximize payload within those constraints.
I may be new, but get an F250, get and ecoboost, get a long bed... is getting old pretty quick. I truly appreciate those who are willing to share pertinent information. How about someone tell me how to mount up a hidden winch and still get an eco? That would be useful.

 

As others said, their are 3 frame distinguished by their center section side wall thicknesses. The HDPP trucks get their own frame that is 0.11" thick. All other trucks get either the 0.87" or the 0.10" frames. I read somewhere (unfortunately I forget where) that if you order "Max tow" you get the 0.10" frame. I do not know if there are other ways to get the 0.10" frame.

 

Ok, so after spending way too much time on this here is where I am.

2018 Lariat supercab 4x4 with 6.5' box. The challenge is to get the heaviest capacity possible with this configuration. I absolutely love adaptive cruise, lane keeping, and all the latest connectivity so we will have the 502a package and pretty much all the electronic goodies I can get. I would get a platinum or KR if they offered one.

5.0 motor. Lets me fit a hidden winch up front without voiding warranty. Due to intecooler the 3.5 was not an option.
Tow package with brake controller and tow mirrors. My trailer is full width so tow mirrors are a must. Max tow not an option with the 5.0
3.73 locking diff. This diff gets me the same 9.75" diff as the max tow, but not the HD version in the max payload. It also gives me the most towing capacity, payload, and rear axle weight rating of any other non ecoboost/max tow configuration. 11,100 tow with 2020lb payload. This will allow towing my 7,000lb enclosed with plenty of headroom on total payload. Running 750 tongue so I'll have about 1,200 left for the cab/bed.
No moonroof. I rent a lot of cars and this is pretty much always a useless waist of money and weight.
35 gallon tank.
18" wheels. I'm not finding any capacity advantage to the 20" wheels but they do weigh more, so 20" wheels are out. Besides, smaller wheels with taller sidewalls handle impacts better.
I never did find anything that I could do to influence frame section thickness. Looks like you get what you get.

Anyone see anything that I may have missed? Here is the part where I ask for opinions. Wasn't trying to be rude before, just need data before being able to evaluate what works best.

EDIT: As a side note. Ford sells a 1.5"X2.5" lowering kit that will not impact warranty. I will have it installed new. This is a work truck, not an off road toy.

 

Looks like you have it figured out. You may want to check actual payloads on the yellow stickers on similarly configured trucks (502a) with all the options you want - either at lots or on the payload thread here before your order. They rarely come out as high as what we think they should on paper. If you have a few hundred pounds wiggle room on the payload you should be fine.

 

Make sure you review the spreadsheet I linked to for actual payloads. 2020 lb payload sounds unlikely.

 

Ford ran the numbers on my full build sheet and that's what they came up with and the spreadsheet confirms. Spreadsheet actually shows 2230, but I'm 210 lower for options. Of course lots of things will make a difference, e.g. the winch, tailgate step, power seats, and the fact that I remove the back seat. It looks like it is the 9.75" rear with 3.73 that makes the difference here. I'm not thrilled with the idea of 3.73, but that is what it takes to get the big diff and the bigger payload springs(essentially, same parts as what come with the 3.5 eco). I'll be running small tires and it makes no sense to me why I would need 3.73 for towing when considering the gearing of the 10 speed.
Regardless, my understanding is that this configuration is the best that I can do.

 

You're welcome for the info.

“You’re welcome” is sarcastic.

 

And thank you. I started this thread trying to gain necessary information for a build. You have posted twice in this thread and clarified two things. First would be that you post without actually reading the thread as I made it abundantly clear why the 3.5 wasn't an option and second being that you are a troll looking for conflict. You behave this way towards people you don't know in person or only when safe behind a keyboard?

 

Don't worry about the 3.73 being to steep a gear. The 10-speed has a triple overdrive. With 3.73, 10-speed and 275x65-18's, it turns 1480 RPM at 60mph. Given that the 5.0 likes to rev, there may be no advantage to taller gears. I have the 3.5EB, which is the low RPM torque king of the gas 1/2 ton world and never feel like I need taller gears than the 3.73. I also get low 20's on the highway despite my 3.73 gears and my elephant ear sized tow mirrors - Don't fear the gear!

 

"Don't fear the gear" I like that one.
It doesn't impact what I'm doing but curious. Does having the 9.75" rear also get a different front diff?
Learning that regardless of the diff, it's the springs that are the limiting factor for GVWR. One of the videos posted here had a Ford engineer explaining why the lighter 15 model didn't have a equally higher payload capacity with the same diff. He basically said it's about springs for ride quality and marketing, not rear axle strength.

I really appreciate all the help. In the end the magic bullet is the 3.73 rear to get heavy springs. Whacky, but it is what it is. This combo will get me the best possible on a 145" wheelbase 5.0.