When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Oddly enough, I've put 2" leveling kits on my last 2 vehicles and gotten them checked and they were still dead on the alignment afterwards.
I have to agree with Gozabn here. I did my '04 and my '14 with a 2 inch lift. Dealer checked the alignment because I had them do the install as well. Alignments were still within spec after install. I have 16,000 on the '14 and show no signs of premature wear.
For those putting the front 2" Auto Spring level kit and add-a-leaf in the rear (mine is 2010 XLT SCREW 44k mi. with like new front end components)
If you opt for the lower control arm bolt removal procedure (as per Auto Spring instructions ) not sure if bolt can be put back in exact position and will need a camber adjustment at the alignment shop. To avoid this issue I opted to go with tie rod end end disconnect method (leaving camber adjustment untouched).
Auto spring instructions stated wheels will be towed in after install so before (and after install) I took measurements on the front alignment using string method thinking i could at least see what way wheels were off i.e. 1/16" , 1/4" or more & adjust tie rod ends to a somewhat close measurement to the stock original measurement so i don't chew tire on way to alignment center. But after install the readings were dead spot on to stock measurements - no tow in! So took long test drive with no pulling. Unless alignment machines detect smaller than 1/64th of inch on tow IN & OUT will 1/64th or less be enough to matter ....... alignment shops are glad to take the $$ to give piece of mind.
For now I will just be checking my front tires for wear going forward .
ps - Only down side to the tie rod disconnect method it gives less clearance for strut replacement in that bottom control arm pocket ( took some persuasion but got it in with help of a modified crowbar on driver side only -pass side slid in easier with sledge hammer & big screw driver).
I did a 1.5" level, and did not remove the lower control arm bolts. Camber should move slightly in the negative direction... not really an issue. Castor will not be affected, except as a result of the reduced rake (somewhat like putting a heavy load in the bed and reducing the rake that way). Toe will most definitely be affected, and that is the only one that I adjusted. I took a before measurement, and both wheels had a slight toe out, which makes sense on a 4x4 truck. After leveling I did a line of sight 0 degree toe on both wheels.