Did the first oil change at just over 1,000 miles and sent in a sample. This is the second time I've sent in a sample of Motorcraft oil and had really low viscosity results (part of the reason I drained that crap out early).

I was guessing that the factory fill was 5w30 since that is what is called for in the manual, but maybe they are using something lighter as factory fill? Either way, it now has 5w30 in it from a different company. I will test again at 5,000 odometer miles. More metals than I was expecting, but we'll see how it plays out. Way too early to make any real conclusions other than, I'm glad I changed it since it was already thin, diluted, and contaminated.

 

Oh, forgot to also report that I checked the oil separator at 1,500 miles and it has accumulated about a table spoon of oil. Very glad that is in the catch can instead of back into the engine.

 

Seems to support the early oil change logic.

 

I sent an oil analysis away from my fist oil change at 3700 kilometers (2300 miles). My copper, & silicon numbers were also high. My fuel dilution levels were almost 8.5%, using GC. I changed oil quite regularly for the first 4 oil changes, & after the 4th oil analysis wear metals leveled out. Still seeing 3-4% fuel dilution, & going to continue to change oil on an earlier schedule. I will watch the oil life monitor, & change it when it shows about 33% oil life remaining, & see if there is any difference for the next oil change interval, but will probably revert back to a 5000 kilometer (3100 mile) replacement during cold winter months in Canada.

 

Regardless of what OCI you decide on, this OA is why I would NEVER leave the factory fill in 10K miles as per the Oil Life Monitor.

 

It appears 5w20 was used as the factory fill.

 

Hard to say. Motorcraft oil plus fuel dilution equals shearing pretty quickly.

Here's a sample from my previous vehicle with Motorcraft 5w30...

 

Then it would be the wrong oil as per the manual. The 3.5TT calls for 5W-30

Unless that's changed for 2019

 

No, my manual and oil cap still call for 5w30, but there's really no way to know what the factory put in. There could also be some assembly lubes getting mixed with the initial oil. However, those are usually thicker oils.

Whatever was in there, I'm glad to have it changed.

I'm giving Driven Racing Oil DI 30 a try. It's a specific oil intended for boosted direct injected motors. Lists EcoBoost as an intended application. Overkill for sure. There's plenty of cheaper good options. I'm just curious to see how it does.

 

You mean crankcase gas condensator. Had it remained as crankcase gas, it would have just burned up with the air/fuel mix.