Factory sub
#761
Senior Member
Can anyone confirm that a B&O sub from a raptor will fit my truck? Have a friend selling one.
I have confirmed that my truck has the wiring harness on the drivers side behind the back seat so think it should be plug and play if anyone can confirm that it will fit.
Help!
Thanks,
I have confirmed that my truck has the wiring harness on the drivers side behind the back seat so think it should be plug and play if anyone can confirm that it will fit.
Help!
Thanks,
The following users liked this post:
BeninCT (04-17-2018)
#763
Same volume issue after installation
I purchased the factory/Kicker subwoofer upgrade, and to be honest... I'm not real happy. The sub and the amp are actually quite good (especially for an 8" woofer with only 100 watts RMS), but the factory radio settings that change when you activate the subwoofer option in the menu sound WAY OFF to me. Here's where I am coming from...
It sounds to me as though there is a Low Pass Filter (LPF) that is activated when the subwoofer option is turned on. Unfortunately, it sounds like those LPF settings are off. When I activated the sub, I lost all bass to the rear door speakers, and a lot of bass to the front door speakers. With every system I have ever owned, that's normal. However, the cut-off point seems too high for the door speakers and too low for the sub... leaving a dead zone in the bass spectrum on anything that isn't Straight Outta Compton. Here's a good example... I'm a big fan of Van Halen, but Van Halen isn't mixed with a ton of bass. Any time anything by VH cycles through, I get a lot of mids and highs, but absolutely no depth. The bass that rounds out the sound gets cut out of the door speakers by the LPF, but there isn't enough bass to really drive the subwoofer... leaving a really flat, dead sound. It's the same with almost everything that isn't hip-hop or electronic. When the song is already bass-heavy to begin with, it actually sounds really good and hits really hard. However, everything from rock to country to funk to jazz that isn't "bumping" actually sounded better with the factory Sync 3 7-speaker system BEFORE I turned the subwoofer option on.
The other issue I have has to do with the volume levels. Activating the subwoofer option totally killed the volume. It used to be that a volume of 15 (out of the possible 30) was plenty loud, and 20 was awesome (I don't remember turning it up much past 20 before activating the sub). Now 15 is hardly enough to get the subwoofer thumping, 20 is getting there, and 25 is where you go when your favorite song cycles through. Those volume changes also affect the bluetooth phone function through the radio. I basically have to crank the stereo all the way up to 30 when I take a call through the Sync 3 system (it wasn't like that before activating the sub).
If they hadn't messed with the volume levels and the bass frequencies... I think I would be really happy with this system. If they had added a remote bass level control ****, an electronic remote control, or even a bass level control in the stereo... I think I would be really happy with the system. If they had given the user the option to control the LPF levels int he stereo... I think I would be really happy with this system. Unfortunately, this option just doesn't offer me the control over the sound that I want, and that is enough to outweigh the plug-n-play ease of everything. I'm thinking I will probably sell this one and install something that will allow me to turn the stereo settings back to where they were, and offers me some bass level control from the dash.
It sounds to me as though there is a Low Pass Filter (LPF) that is activated when the subwoofer option is turned on. Unfortunately, it sounds like those LPF settings are off. When I activated the sub, I lost all bass to the rear door speakers, and a lot of bass to the front door speakers. With every system I have ever owned, that's normal. However, the cut-off point seems too high for the door speakers and too low for the sub... leaving a dead zone in the bass spectrum on anything that isn't Straight Outta Compton. Here's a good example... I'm a big fan of Van Halen, but Van Halen isn't mixed with a ton of bass. Any time anything by VH cycles through, I get a lot of mids and highs, but absolutely no depth. The bass that rounds out the sound gets cut out of the door speakers by the LPF, but there isn't enough bass to really drive the subwoofer... leaving a really flat, dead sound. It's the same with almost everything that isn't hip-hop or electronic. When the song is already bass-heavy to begin with, it actually sounds really good and hits really hard. However, everything from rock to country to funk to jazz that isn't "bumping" actually sounded better with the factory Sync 3 7-speaker system BEFORE I turned the subwoofer option on.
The other issue I have has to do with the volume levels. Activating the subwoofer option totally killed the volume. It used to be that a volume of 15 (out of the possible 30) was plenty loud, and 20 was awesome (I don't remember turning it up much past 20 before activating the sub). Now 15 is hardly enough to get the subwoofer thumping, 20 is getting there, and 25 is where you go when your favorite song cycles through. Those volume changes also affect the bluetooth phone function through the radio. I basically have to crank the stereo all the way up to 30 when I take a call through the Sync 3 system (it wasn't like that before activating the sub).
If they hadn't messed with the volume levels and the bass frequencies... I think I would be really happy with this system. If they had added a remote bass level control ****, an electronic remote control, or even a bass level control in the stereo... I think I would be really happy with the system. If they had given the user the option to control the LPF levels int he stereo... I think I would be really happy with this system. Unfortunately, this option just doesn't offer me the control over the sound that I want, and that is enough to outweigh the plug-n-play ease of everything. I'm thinking I will probably sell this one and install something that will allow me to turn the stereo settings back to where they were, and offers me some bass level control from the dash.
#764
Temp
I've noticed that my temperature gauge is stuck at 37 degrees. It is well into the 50s here today. This occurred sometime after hooking up my subwoofer and turning it on with forscan. Could be coincidence.
#766
I can confirm 2018 xls are not wired at the fuse box (position 22) if they have not been optioned for subwoofer, I bought one from bannerauto so I know it is genuine but before my local dealer even attempted the install they immediately checked for the fuse under the hood and confirmed there would be no power at the harness
#768
Senior Member
No. That means the amplifier in the subwoofer unit can accept a low level signal (typically RCA connections out of an aftermarket head unit, but the factory harness provides low level signal) or a high level speaker signal. If you choose to tap into your rear speakers you'll want to select the high level input option on the amp. Either way an amp is needed and the hi/low switch is always on the amp anyway.
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Mark Liermann (05-04-2018)
#769
Senior Member
So I have a 2017 XLT with a 300A package (base radio and audio system). With that plug in the B pillar turned on via Forscan , everything works (Remote and Power) except for the Line In/ Out wires. I tried to buy the Ford OEM accessory Kicker Sub and had to return it due to not being able to get it to work.
I might try again now with the Kicker Hideaway which is cheaper than the supposed plug and play OEM Kicker. So what do you reccomend I do about the Line In/Out hookup? Tap the rear speakers? Tap the front speakers? Or is there a spot on the truck where these wires dead end and not continue and just need to be completed?
Thanks-
I might try again now with the Kicker Hideaway which is cheaper than the supposed plug and play OEM Kicker. So what do you reccomend I do about the Line In/Out hookup? Tap the rear speakers? Tap the front speakers? Or is there a spot on the truck where these wires dead end and not continue and just need to be completed?
Thanks-
#770
Senior Member
If you don't have factory Sirius radio then those outputs won't be active, so just tap into the rear speakers and use the high level input setting, and adjust the fader as necessary.