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Old Aug 1, 2018 | 05:37 PM
  #31  
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In the past, I have always ran strictly Motorcraft fluids, filters, and when ever possible, all replacement parts. With the Diff oil I would just go ahead and use motorcraft brand in the weight specified in your manual. Whatever the price diff is, you only change the diff oil out once in a blue moon. The price of the fluid is not too important.

As far as engine oil, like others have said, you can't go wrong with Motorcraft brand 5w30. Either Synthetic blend or full synthetic. I ran the syn blend motorcraft in my previous 2012 3.5 ecoboost and had no issues what so ever. The only place that I could get full syn motorcraft around my area was if I had the oil change done at the ford dealership.

That being said any oil with the Ford WSS-M2C946-A certification will be fine to run in you engine and will not void any warranties.

I traded my 2012 eco in last month on a 2018 and I want to go full synthetic on this truck. I plan on either using Mobil 1 EP 5w30 or Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w30, since like I previously stated, I do not have access to motorcraft full synthetic. Both of these oils have been proven to be reliable choices and will be good options for you to run in your truck.
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Old Aug 1, 2018 | 07:00 PM
  #32  
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I'm towing in high heat, I plan on changing mine before 50k. Towing gets the heat to there pretty good. I'm also going to be changing my tranny fluid around 35k as well. Plan on swapping spark plugs at 30k.
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Old Aug 2, 2018 | 07:43 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by BoostedForHerPleasur
That being said any oil with the Ford WSS-M2C946-A certification will be fine to run in you engine and will not void any warranties.
That's helpful. Any chance you know of a list of oils that meet such certification?

Edit: It appears that mobile 1 5w-30 does. https://www.mobil.com/english-us/pas...xxmobil-1-5w30

Although, apparently my 2018 owners manual states WSS-M2C946-B1 as the specification. This is confusing! It seems that mobile 1 5w-30 does not meet WSS-M2C946-B1.

Valvoline apparently only lists it as a "recommended application" not as "meets or exceeds" https://sharena21.springcm.com/Public/Document/18452/f1d157d1-0f7e-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3/3aa410a1-0bbd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1

Does anyone know oils other than Ford that meet WSS-M2C946-B1 without costing an arm and a leg?

Last edited by kehyler; Aug 2, 2018 at 08:01 AM.
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Old Aug 2, 2018 | 10:13 AM
  #34  
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It's amazing. Some on this forum will tune their engines out of warranty, modify the suspension/tires to the point of being dangerous (if not illegal) and out of warranty, Install aftermarket lights that might be dangerous (if not illegal) and out of warrant, FORScan various system parameters out of OEM spec, modify the infotainment system out of OEM spec, etc., etc., etc., and then act like it is sacrilege to even discuss an alternative lubrication strategy even if someone is trying stay within spec or even surpass it. Past bizarre.

Hang in there kehyler. Don't let them get to you.
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Old Aug 2, 2018 | 11:14 AM
  #35  
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I changed the fluid in my diff when i put in a detroit truetrac diff and put in 75w140. If that's wrong i don't wanna be right
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Old Aug 2, 2018 | 11:25 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by BareBonesXL
And the transfer case if you have a 4x4.
Another useless post that speaks volumes.

Originally Posted by tvsjr
Correct. Quality products are fine, but you should use the Ford recommended weight... 5W30 in your case. Not 0W30.


I'm all for overkill... but the rear end is just about bulletproof in these trucks, short of infant mortality or insanely stupid power application or driving. I would hazard a guess that you will run a bigger risk of having leak issues from cracking the diff cover than you will from any "break in" metals that might be present. I get it - I still dump the factory oil at 1K myself. But the rear end? That's serious overkill.
He never said 0W30, even if he had one would think that you (and everyone else) would be smart enough to know what he meant. I'll admit changing your oil a 1K isn't overkill. lmfao.

Originally Posted by mikeinatlanta
If the post you partially quoted did not sufficiently explain why, then that in itself (combined with responses to others) substantiates that further detail would be a waste of energy.
Seriously: It's obvious to anyone reading that you are looking for an oils debate. Not biting, you need way better bait to reel me in.
No, I'd say it's only obvious to you.

Originally Posted by BareBonesXL
What's a 2018 2.7 Ecoboost cost? $40,000 on the low end? You're probably still paying hundreds per month if you financed it. Now you're going to risk a big repair bill by going a few dollars cheaper on an oil change. Even if the oil change cost an extra $50, spread over 5000 miles it comes to $0.01 / mile more. A penny per mile more and you're risking your dealer refusing repair because you saved a few pennies on an oil change. It makes no sense.

It will probably be fine. But it's a question of risk. You probably did not buy an extended warranty either did you? Because it costs a few dollars more per month. On top of your hundreds per month finance payment. Risk/reward is the key.
Originally Posted by BareBonesXL
Don't forget the transmission flush and fluid change.
Another really helpful post.

Originally Posted by BareBonesXL
I just told you. A penny per mile is a razor thin "margin". Go for it! Live on the edge! I can barely breathe...
And another one that really makes sense. lol

Originally Posted by doyall
It's amazing. Some on this forum will tune their engines out of warranty, modify the suspension/tires to the point of being dangerous (if not illegal) and out of warranty, Install aftermarket lights that might be dangerous (if not illegal) and out of warrant, FORScan various system parameters out of OEM spec, modify the infotainment system out of OEM spec, etc., etc., etc., and then act like it is sacrilege to even discuss an alternative lubrication strategy even if someone is trying stay within spec or even surpass it. Past bizarre.

Hang in there kehyler. Don't let them get to you.
Amen.

kehyler: Nothing wrong with 5W-30 Mobil 1 Synthetic. If you would have asked about an oil filter I would suggest using the Motorcraft filter made for your engine. Haven't looked up the rear diff oil but staying with the recommended oil and weights Ford recommends would be what I would do.

More times than not, same 'ol know-it-alls and there clever responses that try and ruin it, can't just try and be helpful or even better, just stay out of it.

Carry on
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Old Aug 2, 2018 | 11:47 AM
  #37  
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Hmm. OP is expecting a reasonable response to an unreasonable question. If someone asks me, "is it safe to eat a crayon?" I am going to ask them why they want to eat a crayon, not answer them that indeed you can eat a crayon safely.

Last edited by rngtrtl; Aug 2, 2018 at 06:30 PM.
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Old Aug 2, 2018 | 03:52 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by kehyler
That's helpful. Any chance you know of a list of oils that meet such certification?

Edit: It appears that mobile 1 5w-30 does. https://www.mobil.com/english-us/pas...xxmobil-1-5w30

Although, apparently my 2018 owners manual states WSS-M2C946-B1 as the specification. This is confusing! It seems that mobile 1 5w-30 does not meet WSS-M2C946-B1.

Valvoline apparently only lists it as a "recommended application" not as "meets or exceeds" https://sharena21.springcm.com/Public/Document/18452/f1d157d1-0f7e-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3/3aa410a1-0bbd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1

Does anyone know oils other than Ford that meet WSS-M2C946-B1 without costing an arm and a leg?
I've never seen the B1 certification, but I'm assuming the A would exceed the B1 spec since WSS-M2C946-A is the only cert listed on even Motorcraft oil. Not to mention any of the others that I have looked into.

Stick with Motorcraft, Mobil 1, or any other reputable brand name and you will be fine. As long as you are changing within the recommended intervals and using the proper viscosity rating you have nothing to worry about.
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Old Aug 2, 2018 | 04:25 PM
  #39  
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https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubrican...ry=Motor%20Oil


B1 oil
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Old Aug 2, 2018 | 08:14 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Sanf150
Yeah, but that's the one that costs an arm and a leg (at-least to me).
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