What's a 2018 2.7 Ecoboost cost? $40,000 on the low end? You're probably still paying hundreds per month if you financed it. Now you're going to risk a big repair bill by going a few dollars cheaper on an oil change. Even if the oil change cost an extra $50, spread over 5000 miles it comes to $0.01 / mile more. A penny per mile more and you're risking your dealer refusing repair because you saved a few pennies on an oil change. It makes no sense.

It will probably be fine. But it's a question of risk. You probably did not buy an extended warranty either did you? Because it costs a few dollars more per month. On top of your hundreds per month finance payment. Risk/reward is the key.

 

Thanks for the reply.

I could say the same mobile 1, valvoline, etc. Surely the have spent huge amounts of money determining that there oils are quality. I do feel the power of your logic, but in my mind it applies equally to the other companies, and therefore I allow cost to come into my decision making process provided I stick within quality products.

Preventive maintenance after an initial break-in period. (I'll note that do what the smart people say is an "appeal to authority" and therefore I won't modify my choice based off of it. If the smart people have disclosed some smart argument, of course then I will modify my choice based off it.)

 

Don't forget the transmission flush and fluid change.

 

Risk/reward is key, but so is thinking on the margin. Does this marginal increase of cost provide enough marginal befit to justify it? I haven't been convinced yet that buying Ford motor oil provides a marginal benefit over the other solid products.

 

And the transfer case if you have a 4x4.

 

I was thinking of doing that as well.

 

I just told you. A penny per mile is a razor thin "margin". Go for it! Live on the edge! I can barely breathe...

 

Correct. Quality products are fine, but you should use the Ford recommended weight... 5W30 in your case. Not 0W30.

I'm all for overkill... but the rear end is just about bulletproof in these trucks, short of infant mortality or insanely stupid power application or driving. I would hazard a guess that you will run a bigger risk of having leak issues from cracking the diff cover than you will from any "break in" metals that might be present. I get it - I still dump the factory oil at 1K myself. But the rear end? That's serious overkill.

 

If the post you partially quoted did not sufficiently explain why, then that in itself (combined with responses to others) substantiates that further detail would be a waste of energy.
Seriously: It's obvious to anyone reading that you are looking for an oils debate. Not biting, you need way better bait to reel me in.

 

No, I'm not trolling, my questions are genuine and you have misjudged someone you don't know. You have an opportunity to share information if you have it.