If it's the APIM, they are pricy. If it were me, I'd consider going this route. The longer these trucks are out there, the more the options like this we will have.
https://www.4dtech.com/replacement-sync-3-module-apim/

 

I'd be looking at scrap yards if it was mine, if you have Forscan, you can do your own programming. Forscan is free, the adapter isn't all that expensive either

 

I would be looking to see if there are any codes before I started buying parts. Thinking ForScan if you have it. Some of the devices in the trucks share and communicate over various shared CAN communication networks. That's why I clicked the "Liked" on the first how is the battery post and your comment about charging the battery. Always like doing a bit more checking before taking the jump to purchase something but there other interesting suggestions too. Not saying it's a battery, but explaining when starting a vehicle, starters pull a lot of current and the battery drops a bit on a good battery while cranking & starting. A weaker battery has a larger voltage drop, most everything in the vehicle, could be affected by that excessive voltage drop. Also there is a battery monitor system in many F150, if your has one, it wants to be included included in any battery charging or discharging. If its not, let the truck sit, I think from memory, its 8 hour undisturbed for the system to re-calibrate. By the way after purchasing a new battery, the battery monitor system always need to reset as it calculates the battery state of charge and performance by also using the age of the battery.

 

One owner's weird electrical issues where caused by a loose ground connection on the cowl, next to the PCM. If it were my truck, I'd be doing more checking before buying expensive, non-returnable parts.

 

So apparently there was a crack in the driver side tail light housing and water got in (how the crack got there who knows). once the water was in there it fried the sensor assembly in there and that was causing all the issues

So a $450 lamp assembly and a $830 Sensor Assembly and everything works. Just what I needed

Thanks for the things to look at folks

 

Sorry it cost so much. Glad you got it fixed. Thanks for letting us know.

 

Thanks for posting the fix, that makes our time worth while reading and participating in this forum.
Three questions

1. Do you have a part number so we can identify what the "Sensor Assembly" actually is?
2. Do you know how long the tail light was not functioning and if only a particular section failed or if all of it had failed?
3. Question to everyone --- Anyone have a knowledgeable answer to the process the dealer used to isolated the trouble?

Thanks again, -- From a wondering and inquisitive mind

 

Clearly you must've accidentally backed into something. Should've filed a claim with your insurance.

And you must have the BLIS LED tail light. I said before those things are nice when new but when they get some age on them the cost to replace them is crazy. The old school bulb tail light is less than $100.

 

After paying the deductible it wouldn't be worth the trouble or the risk of higher premiums.

 

No. I didn't back into anything. I live in the city so something might have backed into me but when the driver side rear backup sensor started throwing errors I checked the rear lamp and the crack wasn't visible

I never knew the tail light was or was not functioning. A few days ago all of a sudden everything in my original post started happening at the same time.

Parts are listed as follows on my invoice

HL3Z*13405*D Lamp Assembly
FL3Z*14C689*A Sensor Assembly