2015 F-150 XLT 5.0 4x4 300A

When I first bought my truck I had a local shop install a wired backup camera (PLCM8200). It worked great for about 2 months and then started malfunctioning after my first car wash.

The camera system is a clip-on mirror that turns into a screen, connected to a wired camera that mounts under my hitch. When I shift into reverse during normal operation, the camera and screen turn on. After the car wash, I got a blank blue screen when shifting into reverse. A few days later, the screen started turning on randomly when I hit the brakes. Upon further investigation, I discovered that my tail lights and rear turn signals are dead. Recognizing that this shop may have compromised my electrical system with a shoddy install, I immediately removed the camera and checked to see what they did. From what I could tell, the camera received power by tapping into my tail light and also tapped into my reverse light (inside the tail) for activation signal. I suspect that at some point these connections shorted out, causing contamination between my brake lights and reverse lights. Taking a closer look at the camera I removed, the signal and power wires were frayed, leading me to believe that this is how the short happened.

Given the damage done, I don't want to bring my truck back to this shop and ask them to fix it. They've already proven to be incompetent. What I need to know is how to get my tail lights and turn signals working again and I can reinstall the camera system myself the right way. Has anyone had a similar issue before, and if so, what did you do to fix it? Thank you for your help!

J

 

If you are not competent enough to figure that out on your own I am not sure how much help people on the Internet will be. I would recommend taking it to the dealer or a reputable shop to diagnose and repair. You should also contact the shop that performed the initial installation and at lest get their take on it and see what they offer.

 

I already checked the fuses, if that's what you were getting at.

 

I wasn't trying to come across in a negative way but can see how that might be the case after re-reading my post. I was just trying to say that the issue is probably not a simple issue and will likely require an decent amount of diagnostics. The fact that you are asking how to fix it makes me think that you are not knowledgable in this area and would be better of taking it to a knowledgable professional that will not make matters worse. Especially with burt/fried circuits come into play.

I still would advise contacting the original shop to see what they say. It can't hurt.

Best of luck.

 

It'd be worth disconnecting the battery (both terminals) for about 10 minutes just to make sure the BCM doesn't have the lights disabled. That'd about the only easy thing you can DIY.

 

Thanks I'll try that.
I'm hesitant to go directly to a dealer or authorized repair center because I don't need my warranty voided at 5000 miles. While I'm willing to do that if necessary I'd like to explore the less risky options first.

 

Agree with Brand, double check all related fuses, including trailer fuses, bulbs and good luck!

 

BTW...did you check both fuse blocks?

 

Check fuse 14-15 in the passenger kick panel. It's a double fuse.

 

Engine bay block:
- 34 (Trailer tow park lamps)
- 35 (Trailer tow stop-turn relay fuse)
- 36 (Trailer tow lamps module)
- 79 (Trailer tow parking lamp relay)
- 87 (Trailer tow backup lamps)

Passenger block:
- 14 (Brake)
- 15 (Smart datalink converter)

None of these were blown. I tried disconnecting both battery terminals for 10 minutes and that didn't work. Aggravating problem is aggravating.