Pulled the connector apart.

 

I am going by my electrical schematics for my 2016 but it looks like this harness has not changed. Those circuits are Pins-4 through 7 and are for the AC outlet. It looks like you have circled the OG-GN at Pin-7. This is the hot wire for the AC outlet in the back of the center console. To eliminate any chance of power getting to this connection until you get a chance to fix it, I suggest you pull the connectors off of the DC/AC Inverter which is under the rear passenger seat. The cover just pulls off. Obviously none of the AC outlets will work afterwards but if you are like me, you rarely use them.

The female connector is available as a pig tail which will be the easiest way to replace it.

Motorcraft WPT-1559 Ford FU2J-14B475-RB

 

Yes!! After disconnecting the pictured connector it eliminated the smoke/spark/flame. But as you said the female was still hot and the male cold (male runs to rear console AC outlet) disconnected there is still power to the dash AC outlet. I'm still interested to figure out whether a weak connection at the harness was the issue or another matter. Hope when the connector is replaced it doesn't re occur.

 

I would carefully check the wiring harness running from the male connector to the AC outlet. Then I would check the outlet. Something caused a short in that AC hot line. It may have been internal in the female connector but all those other components need to be checked.

 

I guess I didn't let the page load before .... I didn't see the parts about inverter and 110 vAC accy terminals. I didn't know ... or maybe I just forgot they were putting inverters in back in 2017. I've got two B&D inverters hanging up in my basement, both were gifts from same family member ... whom often shopped at a B&D outlet store before moving away from it in '16 ... whom forgot he gave the first one a year earlier, I might would use one portable but to run 110v AC through what has custamarily carried low voltage 12vDC ... not for me.

I wonder if the plug was UL approved?

12vDC is capable of fires if enough amps get shorted, hence fuses. 110vAC can get wires hot, it can shock you too, on lower amps, even if just the same wattage. Think of water in a hose, low volts at high amps is a big hose carrying lots of low pressure water just bubbling out as you drink. High voltage at lower amps is like a smaller hose, higher pressure, moving same gallons per minute (wattage) in a fine "skin piercing" jet stream. One will clean off paint, one will strip the paint off. AC is not so friendly as DC. Volts times Amps is Watts.

 

Here is a Motor craft Connector catalog

 

Any aftermarket stuff installed? Factory wiring should be fused. Fires shouldn't happen.

 

Wish that were true. A resistance hot spot can be created by a pinched wire where say 95% of the copper strands are severed. Fuse still see 10amps thru a 20 amp fuse and doesnt blow. However those 10 amps are now flowing thru only 5% of the copper strands it was designed for. So it gets very very hot at the pinch point.

You can weld ( create a very high temp electric arc) using 12vdc directly off the battery posts. I dont recommend that of course, but 12vdc can do lot sometimes.

 

I wrote my post before I saw the part about 110 volts AC. I think that might be the key. Seems like just a poor design by Ford. What kind of circuit protection is on the AC circuit?

 

Last Saturday I had my truck catch fire. Could be related to 120v wiring or the power inverter failing. In 2021 I had a warranty claim for the rear outlet due to a problem with the outlet not holding a plug. I'm not sure what to do as far as getting a lawyer or contacting Ford about this problem. Looks like I won't be getting 0% financing again for a while 😩