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Do you GO for the (Ford) Gold.. Orange.. Yellow... or TOP Shel(f)l Rotella Ultra ELC?

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Old 02-11-2022, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by DsMods
I'll be changing my thermostat to a 160 during this job (2 turbos,BD exhaust manifolds,3"downpipes). Is there no way to easily pull a hose to apply air to blow out heater core or vacuum it out, blow or vacuum coolant from turbo lines, fish a small flexible hose into the block via the thermostat removed and suck it out with a shop vac....? I know some will still remain but 10 flushes is crazy.. There's gotta be a better way to minimize that number... and why on earth is there no drain plugs...
That's why you need the concentrate and Amsoil is not going to help you since theirs is diluted. Buy some of the Motorcraft Yellow on Rockauto.

Like I said in an earlier thread, I have a cooling system vacuum pressure kit which helps push some of the coolant out of the block.
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Old 02-11-2022, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by DsMods
I've read a 160-170 is recommended with all these mods, and supposedly with the proper tune I can see another 1-2mpg..
I wonder if that will make your transmission run too cool...which is not ideal since it supposedly needs to be run at 200°F or higher.

Old 02-11-2022, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by DsMods
So I just opened account, used your code and all went well. However, I'm not seeing a concentrated version of coolant in neither the Heavy duty or standard.. Do you guys offer a concentrate? I always use concentrate when doing flushes because it's much easier to leave the clean distilled water within the block and do the math from there.. and seeing that this thread is now leaving me flustered with flushing questions, I see absolutely no other way to do this job without using concentrate nor would I ever choose to do a coolant "flush" with 50/50...
We do have the Low Toxicity Antifreeze that is concentrated. I do understand the issue, and unfortunately these ecoboosts are a challenge to get it all out. What most of my customers have done is drained as much as they could, then flushed and drained using your method of pulling the lower hose and blowing out all they can. Then filled with 50/50 and ran it a couple of days, then drained the radiator and re-filled with 50/50 and they came out pretty close to where they needed to be. If I remember right they were protected down past -25 or so.
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Old 02-12-2022, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by babock
Fill and get to operating temp every time. I turn heater to high so there is flow through the heater core. I also have a radiator vacuum/pressure kit so I put a small amount of pressure to help push some of the water/coolant every time I do a drain. I go through around 10 gallons of distilled water for my flush.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...e?ie=UTF8&th=1
No heater valve on Fords, they use a blend door instead, core is live/flowing all the time regardless of heater setting.

Originally Posted by mbrick
Fill and let it idle for about 10 minutes. Subsequently about 5 minutes was enough since the engine was warm. I didn't get it all the way to 210F, about 165F indicated seemed to be enough to circulate it well.

And yes, a vacuum filler was absolutely necessary to get all of the air out. UView 550000 is what I used.

You can drain/fill about a gallon at a time but without the vacuum filler it will take much less than a gallon back in. It took me 8 gallons of distilled to flush

Once you are done, you need a refractometer or a little math to figure out how much concentrate to add in to achieve the correct mix. Since you can only drain out 1 gallon at a time but it holds 13 quarts.
Cold-side thermostat; takes ~30 mins idling to get stat to stay open - it'll open briefly a couple of times before then, letting some coolant in from the rad loop, then closing again as that cools the engine loop.
Old 02-13-2022, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by [F2C]MaDMaXX
No heater valve on Fords, they use a blend door instead, core is live/flowing all the time regardless of heater setting.
That's interesting. I always thought it had one since there is a heater valve listed on Rockauto but maybe that is for non automatic AC/Heater systems
in lower trim levels.

Last edited by babock; 02-14-2022 at 01:12 AM.
Old 02-14-2022, 01:37 AM
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Nope, they're all live systems, and i'm not seeing anything called heater valve listed on a 2012 F150 search for any engine option.

Valve'd systems run a servo on the 'tap' controlling flow to the heater core, Ford runs a blend door so the heater core is always experiencing flow and heat - there is an argument that it can get heat to the cabin more quickly, though that's debatable based on the servo just opening to full when heat is called for, and closing off as the cabin sensors reach set point. Of course, that is only on climate systems, however Ford runs the blend door on all systems.
Old 02-14-2022, 02:08 AM
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Originally Posted by [F2C]MaDMaXX
Nope, they're all live systems, and i'm not seeing anything called heater valve listed on a 2012 F150 search for any engine option.
Since this discussion is in a 2015-2018 section, that's probably why.

I am just saying it is likely some models may have them.

Here is one just as an example
https://www.fordpartsonsale.com/oem-...lve-jl3z18495f

Last edited by babock; 02-14-2022 at 02:11 AM.
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Old 02-14-2022, 02:14 AM
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Good call, though it's weird they changed it, seems that one is specific to the late model 2.7's, do you know if they're on other engine models too?
Old 02-14-2022, 02:17 AM
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Originally Posted by [F2C]MaDMaXX
Good call, though it's weird they changed it, seems that one is specific to the late model 2.7's, do you know if they're on other engine models too?
No idea. I am sure mine doesn't have one as you stated and I don't see one mentioned in my factory service manual and it wouldn't show what other models have since it was made with my VIN.



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