Dash Cam hardwire
 

I searched through and didn't find any threads talking about it. Before I jump into the project and hardwire similar to the radar detectors, I wanted to see if anyone on here has wired up their dash cam. I have the OldSHark dash cam, it came with both the hardwire and cigarette plug for power options. Easyest point for power seems to be in the roof console, I'm sure I could find power that switches in with the key, but I have enough cable to run down either side via door frame if a better more secure option is in the foot wells of the truck.

2016 XLT if that helps.

Any pics or input is apprecitaed.

Thanks

I don't care much for hard wiring on these late model trucks. My dash cam has a power cord that's long enough to reach the 12 volt power outlet in the console.

I hardwired my Thinkware pro dashcam and used a 'add a fuse' at the passenger side fuse block. Couldn't be simpler than running wiring under headliner along windshield and down passenger a-pillar to fuse block...easy-peasy!

I hardwired my GoPro to the rear window switch up in the overhead console, per the advise of another member here on the forum. I actually installed a female USB port since the GoPro is powered via USB. So now I have a spare USB port up in my console. Something that required full 12v could just be wired direct.

Worked perfect, as there is keyed power and ground right there at the switch. I did a military in-line splice which means no factory wires are cut at all. I just melted off some of the wire jacketing and soldered on the new wire right there. Everything worked perfect, and the rear window still operates just like normal even when my cam is under power at the same time.

I have pics I can post later this evening when I get home.

OH this I've got to see. We got a go pro that we rarely use and this is a good use as any, can't wait to see pics!

This may be the route I go. Right now I have a crative route of wire across the windshiled, down the piller under the dash (Passenger side) then back through to the center console where the secondary DC plug is. Nothing wrong with this, but the camera stays on, as the DC is a constant power source. The camera has trigger for key power and will power up when power is sent, it will go to standby and run battery once the truck is off, which trigger parking mode. So if any bumps/ vibrations of the truck is felt. It powers up and uses battery backup to record if anyone is messing or hitting the truck while parked. But if the power never turns off, it is just an endless loop of parked footage.

Cams that are specifically designed for dash cams work better as dash cams that GoPro's do, but I didn't have much use for my GoPro either, so it just worked out. I have a new'ish one with voice commands, so about the only thing I have to do manually is turn it on. After that, I can operate everything with my voice including shutting it down.

Nothing like recording your travels in Super Duper wide view 4K HD :D

I will post pics later on!

Yep, the switch wiring I used is definitely only hot with the key. No 30 second delay or anything, directly on/off with the key (or push button actually in my case).

There is just a standard connector coming off the backside of the switch with 3 or 4 wires. I just used a test light and found the constant hot (with ignition) and the ground was obvious. 10 minutes of soldering and I was in business.

I was nervous about pulling down my console, but it ended up being easy and I didn't break anything or pull down my whole headliner, haha. I just watched a few youtube videos on how to do it.

See post 8 in this thread: https://www.f150forum.com/f118/post-...3/#post5602147
Hard wired into the power for the auto-dimming mirror.

So I've not done it yet but I'd doing the add a fuse and make a ground wire setup.
1) I want a fuse on the system
2) I will use 2 cameras for front and back (it's one system but the power draw is a bit higher)
3) for future trouble shooting or if I sell the viechle I like it to be easity traced.

Still not tapping into factory wires - there are hot open holes in the fuse panel - and now that circuit will come on with the ignition, have it's own fuse and own wires. Did the same for the radar detector.I need to test which fuse locations.