Hi there forum I was wondering if I could pick yalls brains a little and possibly get some help in figuring out what I'm doing wrong with my column to console shifter conversion. I purchased a used on console out of a 2018 10 speed Shelby truck. It came with the console shifter and I purchased the shift cable and steering column shroud to go with it.

I had been waiting on the release of a plug and play harness but became impatient and decided to try and tackle the wiring portion on my own. Probably a bad choice lol.

When I first got the console a while back I pulled shifter assembly out and started tracing out the wiring and took a multimeter to it and my column shifter to figure out what wire handle what specific function. the 5 wires for the drive modes and up/down gear selection was fairly easy. this left me with the wiring for the brake solenoid which I have those two wires figured out and can feel the solenoid activate when I press the brake pedal.

What I can't get to work for some reason is the wiring for the button you squeeze on the front of the shifter. This button is the equivalent of pulling back on the column shift lever which will make some sort of relay click under the column with either the key in or out of the ignition. At this point I can start the truck. I can press the brake and feel the solenoid in the shifter activate and I can push the button on the console shifter to move through the gears but I never hear the initial click of the relay under the dash when I first press the button. What this is causing is for the truck to not recognize that it is in park and on my gauge cluster the P for park doesn't light up. When I turn the truck off the cluster goes black but the PRNDM is still lit on the screen.

When I was initially testing the wires a while back I put 12 volts to the solenoid for the brake lock out and saw it move and it still works now. Like a dummy I put 12 volts to the 2 wires(green, black) that lead to the microswitch which is activated and deactivated by pushing the button on the shifter and Im pretty sure I burned it up because I could no longer get continuity through the two wires leading to the switch. So I ordered another shifter on ebay that is also suppose to be a 10spd shifter but noticed the miscroswitch on it has 3 wires(green, blue, black) where the first one only had two. that extra wire makes 10 pins at the shifter connector but the other side of the connector which was apart of the console wiring only has wires in 9 of the pin slots.

The way I did the wiring was I cut the connector off the console harness that plugged into the shifter and used that for a pigtail. I ran wiring from that pigtail(9 wires total) up to the column and made my connections there where the column shifter wiring was (9 wires also). I have all the drive modes and manual up and down gear selection working (5 out of the 9 wires). I have the brake interlock solenoid working (2 out of the remaining 4 wires) when I press the brake you can feel the solenoid activate in the console shifter. The two wires that are left at the column and from the pigtail regardless of what combination I hook them up when I press the button on the console shifter the relay or noid under the column area does not activate and the "P" in PRNDM on the dash is not highlighted orange.

I have checked continuity thru my pigtail extension and there are no issues with it. I'm not sure if the little microswitch in this second shifter has taken a crap also. What really is throwing me off is why the truck wiring has 9 wires but the two shifters I have one has 9 wires and the other has 10 but neither work for me.

 

Did you ever figure this out? I’m about to attempt the column to console swap and the console shifter I have has 9 pins and not 10 and every write up has 10 pins.

 

In order to do this it is a must to purchase a wiring diagram for your truck and possibly a wiring diagram for the year of truck the console caim out of if not the same.

 

Its been so long i dont remember what wires went where. All i did was verify what each wire controlled on the column shift shifter and the same for the console shifter and basically extended them and connected them to one another. I vaguely remember there being a difference in the number of pins which had me stumped but i think one just went to ground. I had some notes written down in a notebook but i moved and im not sure where they went.

I think you can buy the swap harness still from a guy online. Forgot this name.

 

what did you do cant find anything else but your post about the 10 pin connector only having 9 wire

 

did you figured it out ? Having same issue

 

Boosted grey goose has a harness

 

This is the harness I used for my column to console conversion. Been several years though.