I have been checking out very specific F-150 configs that aren't as popular, but it is what I want. I would have to order one, if I wanted it local. The non-haggle dealer gave me prices on two different builds, both he said were $100 under invoice. Low ~$48k before any incentives/rebates. I have no issue waiting for the price and config I want to line up. I see one advertised for $40k about 250 miles away, though it is a 2016 and I promised the wife I would wait a year. I am wondering if prices you see on certain sites like cars.com have hidden fees or charges? I.e. do they add all possible incentives into price, to lower it?

One config is a 501a Screw Lariat 4x4 3.5EB with max tow and 36gal tank, nothing else. Other is a unicorn, a HDPP similar specs, minus the 501a. If I go with HDPP, I would be forced to order local, I think. The other I think I could wait year end to get something with a better incentive, like that $40k Lariat, granted it isnt exactly what I want, but close enough.

Current incentives suck for 2017, if I do order, when is it the best time?

 

Go where the deal takes you. But, you could always see if the dealer will match or fetch the one you want. But, arm yourself with knowledge first. I always use cars.com to haggle.

 

autotrader.com is a good site to really search across state lines. i bought mine from about 200 miles away. got as good of a deal as i had seen for the vehicle i was looking for. I also had very specific options that i wanted. good luck. holzhauer auto in nashville Illinois is where i bought mine.

 

We bought from nearly 200 miles away too. Go where the deal is. Call and ask the salesman to work you up a buyers order so you can see all the #s. If they're right, then you're good to make the trip. If not, you only wasted a little time, but no gas or wear/tear getting there.

 

On many advertising sites like autotrader, dealers will pull a bait and switch on their pricing. There's a dealer in VA notorious for this, with their "WOW" price. It's complete BS. If they say they are under invoice, make them show you the invoice that they say they are under.

I knew before buying that my local dealer gives a "wink wink, nudge nudge" to people who buy from them when getting warranty or service work done. I found a truck I liked across state lines and brought the info to them to see if they could get close to the other dealer's price. They came close enough it wasn't worth it for me to drive to that other dealer.

 

i used cars.com and found one 300 miles out that was $4k cheaper than anything thing locally...that was until i got them to price match. Like others had said, make sure you do your homework and get all the final numbers before you do, My local dealer didnt believe me on the other dealers price....that was until i showed them the email as proof...then i busted out my $1000 coupon on top of that.

 

I live in Ohio and I am not afraid to hop on a plane and travel somewhere like Texas (the land of cheaper trucks). My uncle has bought every truck he has had from Texas, he lives in TN. Go find the best deal and make a road trip out of it if your time allows.

For price comparison purposes: My uncle bought a 2014 f350 and ended up saving $5,500 on the sticker price alone compared to where he is in TN.

 

We saved about $2,000 when buying our RCSB from the out of area dealer. I was skeptical at first BC they were "beating" local dealers by so much. But after doing my homework, it was a legit deal, and we're happy to have saved the extra $$.

 

Remember a few things:

- your dealer can dealer trade for a truck you want. Mine did, got it from 150 miles away.

- you will only get the incentives from the region you live, regardless of where you buy. So if Texas has $7,000 off buy you live in O_io (sorry), you get the O_io rebates.

- any dealer can give you the SmartVincent printout showing MSRP, invoice, A/Z/X/D plans, and all applicable rebates.

"When is the best time" to buy a 2017? Depends. Lowest prices / most incentives would be the first quarter of 2018, when the 2018s are out for months and the 2017s are in short supply. Of course you're buying a "year old truck" from a depreciation point at that point, go try selling it the next day vs. a current model year truck.

 

I played with auto trader, though it seemed more limiting and more frustating cars.com. It also had a lot of annoying ads for things I wasn't interested in. I use to like it a lot more.

Yeah that is my biggest fear, is wasting time. So many dealers don't answer questions and want you to come in. If they answer your questions, they quote the brochure, instead of looking at the darn payload sticker you specifically asked them to do. Then they act like they know more about the truck then you do. I have spent well over 50 hours of researching the F-150.

Funny you say that, two vehicles I saved on my list as "good comps" are from two different dealers in VA. What dealer is it so I can avoid it? That might be a good option, though I am thinking that the reason the vehicle is so cheap, is that no one really wants that combo and it was built in 3/3/16. They are asking $40,000:
http://www.windowsticker.forddirect....EW1EG8GFB51529

Don't care for the running board and it doesn't have 501a, but that is close enough to what I am looking for. Though I am looking at this for a comp for about next year. I think I would be happy if I could get the non-HDPP setup for under $42k + TTL. That is why I am researching now and asking questions. So I know when to wait or when to pull the trigger on a 2017. The only thing is if I go with the HDPP, I don't think I would save as much and would have to order it.

Texas is an option as I have family that lives there, my old man bought his F-150 down there. Though I would be spending about $1,000-$1,500 for air travel, gas, and lodging on the trip back. I would also loose a whole weekend and might have to take time off. Granted I could visit family at the same time.