Break-in methods
I get my 2016 F150 this Friday, and was wondering what techniques some of you have used to break the power train in.
It's a 5.0 with the 3.55, 7000 gvwr just over 200km, 120mi on the odo, brand new.
Elevation is around 3500 ft.
It's a 5.0 with the 3.55, 7000 gvwr just over 200km, 120mi on the odo, brand new.
Elevation is around 3500 ft.
Last edited by BertaPower; Jan 24, 2017 at 08:55 PM.
With 120 miles already on it, who knows what it's been through? Kinda difficult to bring back it's virginity now. But I get what you're asking...
Mine had 50 when I took delivery. I had elaborate plans for breaking mine in but, realizing that it had already been "soiled", just kept the RPM under 3000 for the first 1000 miles and varied it when I could by locking out gears. I then changed the oil and filter at 1000 miles and called it good.
FWIW, my 5L's dipstick went from top of the full mark to half way to add over that initial 1,000 mile period. At 2k now. The oil level has remained at the full mark for the past 1,000 miles.
Mine had 50 when I took delivery. I had elaborate plans for breaking mine in but, realizing that it had already been "soiled", just kept the RPM under 3000 for the first 1000 miles and varied it when I could by locking out gears. I then changed the oil and filter at 1000 miles and called it good.
FWIW, my 5L's dipstick went from top of the full mark to half way to add over that initial 1,000 mile period. At 2k now. The oil level has remained at the full mark for the past 1,000 miles.
I would check the owners manual and follow what it states.
The goal of engine break-in is to operate the engine in such a manner as to promote good ring/cylinder bedding.
Pretty much you want varying cylinder pressures/vacuums to get that bedding done correctly without exacerbating any hot-spots at the ring/cylinder interface.
If those hot-spots get overly hot, the two metals wear excessively. This probably won't become a problem in the following 200k+ miles of operation, but it never hurts to try and start out on a good foot. That's why there is generally an RPM limit during break-in; higher RPM = faster moving pistons = more heat at critical wear-in zones.
I'd trust the folks who spent the millions to engineer, design and produce that engine to know what's best for it, or go with some other form of gentle break-in that is at least as restrictive as what the owners manual states.
$0.02
The goal of engine break-in is to operate the engine in such a manner as to promote good ring/cylinder bedding.
Pretty much you want varying cylinder pressures/vacuums to get that bedding done correctly without exacerbating any hot-spots at the ring/cylinder interface.
If those hot-spots get overly hot, the two metals wear excessively. This probably won't become a problem in the following 200k+ miles of operation, but it never hurts to try and start out on a good foot. That's why there is generally an RPM limit during break-in; higher RPM = faster moving pistons = more heat at critical wear-in zones.
I'd trust the folks who spent the millions to engineer, design and produce that engine to know what's best for it, or go with some other form of gentle break-in that is at least as restrictive as what the owners manual states.
$0.02







