Bad IWE?
#1
Bad IWE?
I have a loud humming noise (like aggressive MT tires) coming from the front passenger wheel. Pitch varies with speed of the vehicle, not throttle input, and goes away when I turn right but not left. I have rotated tires around to eliminate that as the potential sound (and my tires are relatively quiet) so I am thinking it has to be either the IWE or the axle shaft/CV. Sound does not go away when in 4a or 4h, so I don’t think it’s a vacuum issue. Thoughts?
#4
When my iwe's went it sounded like leaves in the vent fan, windows closed at highway speeds. When I rolled down the windows and drove by concrete walls then it was clear there was some metal on metal grinding sound.
#6
Senior Member
From my experience it is usually the opposite side of the way you turned. So a right turn will put more lateral force on the left side wheel bearing. A left turn will pit more lateral force on the right side. But again, I am diagnosing from a smart phone so it could really be anything. Let us know how it turns out.
#7
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Yep, sounding like a bearing is/has gone out. Some 2017 have the IWE vacuum system delay programmed into the TCCM, so, you might get vacuum after starting, or you might not. Regardless, you're going to have to get the IWE disengaged to be able to spin whichever side you do first. Have a cheap little vacuum pump? Anyway, remove tire/wheel, disengage that IWE, and spin the rotor and see if you can feel any rough spots, it might be a bit tight because of the calipers. If you feel anything, rotate the rotor back and forth over the rough spot to be sure. I recommend disengaging the IWE so you don't get misleading grind or vibration from the CV joints or front diff.
The hub bearing comes as an assembly, and is pretty easy to replace, just a little time consuming if you haven't done it before. Last price I saw was around $220 for an OEM, recommend you do go with OEM.
Do a Google for Ford Tech Makuloco, IIRC, he's got a video on replacing this, may not be a '17, but 11th, 12th, 13th gen are the same.
The hub bearing comes as an assembly, and is pretty easy to replace, just a little time consuming if you haven't done it before. Last price I saw was around $220 for an OEM, recommend you do go with OEM.
Do a Google for Ford Tech Makuloco, IIRC, he's got a video on replacing this, may not be a '17, but 11th, 12th, 13th gen are the same.
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#8
Yep, sounding like a bearing is/has gone out. Some 2017 have the IWE vacuum system delay programmed into the TCCM, so, you might get vacuum after starting, or you might not. Regardless, you're going to have to get the IWE disengaged to be able to spin whichever side you do first. Have a cheap little vacuum pump? Anyway, remove tire/wheel, disengage that IWE, and spin the rotor and see if you can feel any rough spots, it might be a bit tight because of the calipers. If you feel anything, rotate the rotor back and forth over the rough spot to be sure. I recommend disengaging the IWE so you don't get misleading grind or vibration from the CV joints or front diff.
The hub bearing comes as an assembly, and is pretty easy to replace, just a little time consuming if you haven't done it before. Last price I saw was around $220 for an OEM, recommend you do go with OEM.
Do a Google for Ford Tech Makuloco, IIRC, he's got a video on replacing this, may not be a '17, but 11th, 12th, 13th gen are the same.
The hub bearing comes as an assembly, and is pretty easy to replace, just a little time consuming if you haven't done it before. Last price I saw was around $220 for an OEM, recommend you do go with OEM.
Do a Google for Ford Tech Makuloco, IIRC, he's got a video on replacing this, may not be a '17, but 11th, 12th, 13th gen are the same.
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johnday in BFE (09-03-2022)
#9
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Good, sounds like you're good to go.
#10
Large Member
Exact same symptom my truck he when a front wheel bearing went out. It wound up being the opposite one instead of the one I thought it was. Luckily it was covered under the powertrain warranty