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adding a light bar

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Old Feb 25, 2017 | 07:16 PM
  #91  
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Any warranty issues with lights bar?
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Old Feb 25, 2017 | 09:21 PM
  #92  
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Shouldn't be any warranty issues.
Attached Thumbnails adding a light bar-img_0008.jpg   adding a light bar-img_0007.jpg  
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Old Feb 27, 2017 | 03:54 PM
  #93  
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We added our an 18" Stage Series bar into the grille of our 2015 F-150





Nick C.
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 01:46 AM
  #94  
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Is the mounting location in the bumper opening the same as the 09-14 models? I was hoping I can swap over my nfab light bar when i get into a new truck in October.
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Old Mar 4, 2017 | 05:48 PM
  #95  
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I'm in a bit of a pickle right now, not much time to search all these pages, I need a 12v IGN source to wire my light bar switch too!?? So I need it off when the vehicle is off , on when vehicle is on. 2016 f150, any help would save my ***!
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Old Mar 4, 2017 | 07:59 PM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by kyle stenger
I'm in a bit of a pickle right now, not much time to search all these pages, I need a 12v IGN source to wire my light bar switch too!?? So I need it off when the vehicle is off , on when vehicle is on. 2016 f150, any help would save my ***!
Not sure if you want in cab or in engine compartment...both.
Add a fuse easiest route...Take your pick...











As always copyright Ford MoCo/Helminc.
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Old Mar 4, 2017 | 11:45 PM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by flsdiver
Not sure if you want in cab or in engine compartment...both.
Add a fuse easiest route...Take your pick...











As always copyright Ford MoCo/Helminc.
thanks I used an add a fuse to the 4x4 module fuse,after testing them all it's one of the few that worked how I wanted it, is there any risk to tapping I to this? Again, I used an add a fuse
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Old Mar 5, 2017 | 05:37 AM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by kyle stenger
thanks I used an add a fuse to the 4x4 module fuse,after testing them all it's one of the few that worked how I wanted it, is there any risk to tapping I to this? Again, I used an add a fuse
Not sure I understand the comment 'few that worked as I wanted'. They all should behave the same. On with key per diagram.

Amps?
I assume all this does is goes to a switch. That switch then goes to a relay coil. The actual power that runs the lights should come from the battery through it's own fuse to the relay. That is the safe way. As then the current draw on the add a circuit is minimal few milliamperes. You can then use any existing fuse to tap into.

Last edited by flsdiver; Mar 5, 2017 at 05:57 AM.
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Old Mar 5, 2017 | 12:27 PM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by flsdiver
Not sure I understand the comment 'few that worked as I wanted'. They all should behave the same. On with key per diagram.

Amps?
I assume all this does is goes to a switch. That switch then goes to a relay coil. The actual power that runs the lights should come from the battery through it's own fuse to the relay. That is the safe way. As then the current draw on the add a circuit is minimal few milliamperes. You can then use any existing fuse to tap into.
Yes, all that does is go to the switch. You are correct, I have the actual power running straight from the batter, to a fuse and relay. I had tested all the fuses with a test light before you had posted your comment, what I meant was the majority of the fuses I tested were hot, even when the vehicle was off, there was only a couple I tested that **** off when the key was off, I'm not sure exactly all of them but the 4x4 was one that worked for me, and was also in your diagram.
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Old Mar 5, 2017 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by kyle stenger
Yes, all that does is go to the switch. You are correct, I have the actual power running straight from the batter, to a fuse and relay. I had tested all the fuses with a test light before you had posted your comment, what I meant was the majority of the fuses I tested were hot, even when the vehicle was off, there was only a couple I tested that **** off when the key was off, I'm not sure exactly all of them but the 4x4 was one that worked for me, and was also in your diagram.
Ok, gotcha, all good then.
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