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I got the tank swapped out Monday night and updated FORScan last night. Everything works and the DTE reads correctly! I put 37.8 gallons in the tank... so either the tank is actually bigger than 36 gallon or my gas station is lying....
I've done a ton of work on my trucks over the years and it was definitely not the easiest job I've done. But no where near the worst either. If you're ok smelling like gas for the next 24 hours and getting your elbows dirty absolutely do this! The worst part was by far figuring out how to disconnect the 7 difference fuel lines and electrical connectors, this took me the longest amount of time. There just isn't much room under there and your vantage point is awful for the majority of them. Overall it took me a little over 3.5 hours but i stopped and ate dinner for about 20 mins.
I used these instructions from other members post and they were pretty helpful on the process. I've posted my pictures and a few observations in his instructions below.
1. Disconnect the battery. Remove the skid plate if you have one. Disconnect the two gas lines towards the front of the truck. Have a piece of cardboard or a bucket handy. Gas will come spewing out.
2. Loosen the front bracket and move to the side 15mm. Let the tank hang down and prop it up with a 2x4 so it is not completely on the ground.
3. Loosen rear bracket 15mm. Just enough so it will allow you to drop the front down and have some leeway.
4. Unplug wire harness towards front. Seen closer in the right side of picture 2.
5. Remove rear bracket (tank will be held up by rubber fill hose). - You can also have the bracket holding up the tank but not bolted up. It will hold the tank up but looser and lower.
6. Tank will be at a 45 with the front on the ground. Slide up there and disconnect all the fuel pump and electrical disconnects. This was by far the most frustrating part and took me about an hour to carefully get all the connections off. I partially broke one but was able to fix it. BE CAREFUL HERE.
- Electrical connect on the pump has a red tab on top that you can pull out carefully with pliers then push down the tab on the back and pull it off.
- Larger pump hose pushes each side together and releases
- 2 smaller ones are the worst, the one with a red cap comes off and releases a collar inside that goes over the nipple. The other I partially broke so take my advice sparingly here, but it is was very fragile as its the smallest one. It seemed to have a similar collar on the inside that tightened around the nipple. The tab on the bottom loosens to release somewhat but BE CAREFUL on this one.
7. Loosen clamp on fuel hose and tank will drop to ground. Once I got here and the tank was hanging by only the filler hose. Move to the outside (drivers side) of the tank and squeeze your arm up between the frame and the tank to loosen the clamp. This would have been easier had my tank been completely empty.
8. Slide out from under truck.
9. Transfer Two existing hoses to new tank. Take the clamp ring and gasket off your old tank. I used a sledge hammer and flat head screwdriver to tap it off. I sprayed some WD-40 on this to make it easier.
10. Install new fuel pump (you can use a new gasket or reuse the one from your existing ) it should be in good shape. FUEL PUMP HAS ONE CONNECTION HOSE INSIDE THE TANK. DON'T FORGET IT.
- (being a salvage tank my connector was cutoff inside the tank. Small setback but it was fine. I had to pull the one from my existing tank and connect it to the "Y" connector inside the new tank.)
- you'll see how to orient your new pump. There is a grove in the bottom of the tank to line up the pump.
11. Screw top clamp on fuel tank so the grooves are lined up. Use screw driver and hammer (don't put a hole in your tank)
12. Slide the tank under the truck (will have to shimmy a little but it will fit)
13. Get yourself under the tank push it up and connect the fill hose. This was a bitch...be careful
- this is no joke and honestly if you have someone who can help hold the tank up, I would recommend it big time. My fill neck was not very long and trying to hold the tank, line up the hose and tighten it alone would have been a nightmare.
- it was hard enough with 2 people. You also lose a lot of room with the new bigger tank.
14. Loop the rear bracket around the tank to hold it up. Slide your *** up like a spider monkey and connect all the lines to fuel pump and electrical disconnects on the rear end.
- I did this from the driveshaft side.
- double check you got them all!
15. Mount brackets.
- they will seem like they wont fit but they just need some finessing.
- this is why Ford gave you long *** bolts
16. Push tank up and tighten brackets but not all the way tight until after step 17.
17. Reconnect two front fuel lines then tighten up your mounts
18. Get out and clean up your mess.
19. Put 3-5 gallons of gas in your new tank.
- i put in 3.2 and it started right up after the last step.
- this would of bee nice if i had a pump but i just had some gas cans already full.
20. Hit the start button 7-10 times on and off to circulate the fuel pump. DON'T SKIP THIS STEP.
21. Crank the truck up and hope to God it starts! Lol
22. Change your values in FORScan. IPC 720-03-01 xxx5 54xx xxxx
- this was before the FORScan change. This was odd as it did go up to 403 miles with a full tank when I have never had it read that high. Normally around 330-350 miles for me.
-FORScan spreadsheet to verify
- After FORScan chage. I had driven 50 miles Tuesday so completely full it looks like it will say around 640 miles to empty!
I'm going to buy the RCI skid plate to protect it once I get the chance. But overall this was a a great project even though I do wish Ford would of used 1 or 2 connector types instead of 5 lol. On to the next one!
Last edited by The Colonel 12; 10-02-2019 at 05:54 PM.
I got the tank swapped out Monday night and updated FORScan last night. Everything works and the DTE reads correctly! I put 37.8 gallons in the tank... so either the tank is actually bigger than 36 gallon or my gas station is lying....
I've done a ton of work on my trucks over the years and it was definitely not the easiest job I've done. But no where near the worst either. If you're ok smelling like gas for the next 24 hours and getting your elbows dirty absolutely do this! The worst part was by far figuring out how to disconnect the 7 difference fuel lines and electrical connectors, this took me the longest amount of time. There just isn't much room under there and your vantage point is awful for the majority of them. Overall it took me a little over 3.5 hours but i stopped and ate dinner for about 20 mins.
I used these instructions from other members post and they were pretty helpful on the process. I've posted my pictures and a few observations in his instructions below.
1. Disconnect the battery. Remove the skid plate if you have one. Disconnect the two gas lines towards the front of the truck. Have a piece of cardboard or a bucket handy. Gas will come spewing out.
2. Loosen the front bracket and move to the side 15mm. Let the tank hang down and prop it up with a 2x4 so it is not completely on the ground.
3. Loosen rear bracket 15mm. Just enough so it will allow you to drop the front down and have some leeway.
4. Unplug wire harness towards front. Seen closer in the right side of picture 2.
5. Remove rear bracket (tank will be held up by rubber fill hose). - You can also have the bracket holding up the tank but not bolted up. It will hold the tank up but looser and lower.
6. Tank will be at a 45 with the front on the ground. Slide up there and disconnect all the fuel pump and electrical disconnects. This was by far the most frustrating part and took me about an hour to carefully get all the connections off. I partially broke one but was able to fix it. BE CAREFUL HERE.
- Electrical connect on the pump has a red tab on top that you can pull out carefully with pliers then push down the tab on the back and pull it off.
- Larger pump hose pushes each side together and releases
- 2 smaller ones are the worst, the one with a red cap comes off and releases a collar inside that goes over the nipple. The other I partially broke so take my advice sparingly here, but it is was very fragile as its the smallest one. It seemed to have a similar collar on the inside that tightened around the nipple. The tab on the bottom loosens to release somewhat but BE CAREFUL on this one.
7. Loosen clamp on fuel hose and tank will drop to ground. Once I got here and the tank was hanging by only the filler hose. Move to the outside (drivers side) of the tank and squeeze your arm up between the frame and the tank to loosen the clamp. This would have been easier had my tank been completely empty.
8. Slide out from under truck.
9. Transfer Two existing hoses to new tank. Take the clamp ring and gasket off your old tank. I used a sledge hammer and flat head screwdriver to tap it off. I sprayed some WD-40 on this to make it easier.
10. Install new fuel pump (you can use a new gasket or reuse the one from your existing ) it should be in good shape. FUEL PUMP HAS ONE CONNECTION HOSE INSIDE THE TANK. DON'T FORGET IT.
- (being a salvage tank my connector was cutoff inside the tank. Small setback but it was fine. I had to pull the one from my existing tank and connect it to the "Y" connector inside the new tank.)
- you'll see how to orient your new pump. There is a grove in the bottom of the tank to line up the pump.
11. Screw top clamp on fuel tank so the grooves are lined up. Use screw driver and hammer (don't put a hole in your tank)
12. Slide the tank under the truck (will have to shimmy a little but it will fit)
13. Get yourself under the tank push it up and connect the fill hose. This was a bitch...be careful
- this is no joke and honestly if you have someone who can help hold the tank up, I would recommend it big time. My fill neck was not very long and trying to hold the tank, line up the hose and tighten it alone would have been a nightmare.
- it was hard enough with 2 people. You also lose a lot of room with the new bigger tank.
14. Loop the rear bracket around the tank to hold it up. Slide your *** up like a spider monkey and connect all the lines to fuel pump and electrical disconnects on the rear end.
- I did this from the driveshaft side.
- double check you got them all!
15. Mount brackets.
- they will seem like they wont fit but they just need some finessing.
- this is why Ford gave you long *** bolts
16. Push tank up and tighten brackets but not all the way tight until after step 17.
17. Reconnect two front fuel lines then tighten up your mounts
18. Get out and clean up your mess.
19. Put 3-5 gallons of gas in your new tank.
- i put in 3.2 and it started right up after the last step.
- this would of bee nice if i had a pump but i just had some gas cans already full.
20. Hit the start button 7-10 times on and off to circulate the fuel pump. DON'T SKIP THIS STEP.
21. Crank the truck up and hope to God it starts! Lol
22. Change your values in FORScan. IPC 720-03-01 xxx5 54xx xxxx
- this was before the FORScan change. This was odd as it did go up to 403 miles with a full tank when I have never had it read that high. Normally around 330-350 miles for me.
-FORScan spreadsheet to verify
- After FORScan chage. I had driven 50 miles Tuesday so completely full it looks like it will say around 640 miles to empty!
I'm going to buy the RCI skid plate to protect it once I get the chance. But overall this was a a great project even though I do wish Ford would of used 1 or 2 connector types instead of 5 lol. On to the next one!
Wonder if taking off the bed would save time dealing with the finicky connectors on top of the tank..??
Wonder if taking off the bed would save time dealing with the finicky connectors on top of the tank..??
I don't know that it would help on a crew cab quite as much as the connections are underneath the cab mostly. But it could if you have room to take the bed off. I've also heard those bed bolts are one time use so there's that...
Just to verify, any 36 gallon tank will fit regardless of engine type as long as it is not from a 121" WB truck, since I will be getting a new pump from Tasca, correct? So any tank shell with heat shield, new 3.5L TT fuel pump, and Forescan adjustments are all I need?
To be absolutely clear, and i'm reviving an old thread, say my SCREW 23g tank, the pump will not work in the new 36g tank?
I'd love to see side-by-side measurements and stuff if possible :/
To be absolutely clear, and i'm reviving an old thread, say my SCREW 23g tank, the pump will not work in the new 36g tank?
I'd love to see side-by-side measurements and stuff if possible :/
23 gallon pump won’t work because the depth of the tanks is different. So the pumps have physically different sizes.
23 gallon pump won’t work because the depth of the tanks is different. So the pumps have physically different sizes.
I see what you're saying. The pump housing is definitely going to be taller. Pump inside the housing the same? I'd imagine it would be the same volume.
Another question: 5.0s have a higher volume in-tank pump, don't they? Why not order the 5.0 pump just for giggles....
09-30-2019, 06:14 PM
