3.5 Max Tow vs 6.7
01-28-2018, 08:35 PM
#62
Superior while towing is an opinion, not a fact. I've owned and towed extensively with both. It all depends on WHAT you are towing. My Ram 2500 towed a Bobcat on a trailer way better than my F150 did, but my new F150 is far superior in towing my toy hauler. Right tool for the right job.
Mike
Mike
LOL. There’s quite a bit of physics that goes into it as well. First, an 8000 lb truck will be more stable better than one 1500 lbs lighter.
Last edited by leje0306; 01-28-2018 at 08:48 PM.
01-28-2018, 08:38 PM
#63
I also found this... but haven't found it for Ford, Ram, or a current GM.
2011 2500hd:
Width: 3.49in. (8.86cm)
Depth: 8.46in (21.49cm)
Thickness: 0.181in (0.46cm)
Section Modulus: 6.811in
2011 2500hd:
Width: 3.49in. (8.86cm)
Depth: 8.46in (21.49cm)
Thickness: 0.181in (0.46cm)
Section Modulus: 6.811in
01-28-2018, 08:40 PM
#64
[QUOTE=Gladehound;5639757]I also found this... but haven't found it for Ford, Ram, or a current GM.
2011 2500hd:
Width: 3.49in. (8.86cm)
Depth: 8.46in (21.49cm)
Thickness: 0.181in (0.46cm)
Section Modulus: 6.811in[/QUOTE
2011 2500hd:
Width: 3.49in. (8.86cm)
Depth: 8.46in (21.49cm)
Thickness: 0.181in (0.46cm)
Section Modulus: 6.811in[/QUOTE
Look at us, we will be structural engineers by the end of this thread!
01-28-2018, 09:24 PM
#65
Sectional modulus is not the important number on frame strength. The truly important number is RBM, which ford does not list, but you can calculate. Its (sectional modulus X yield strength of material). RBM is the measure that frame makers use to show which frame will hold up better to loads under use.
01-28-2018, 09:33 PM
#66
The travel trailer is a 2004 Fleetwood Caravan Microlite 25BH. 27 foot ball to bumper. 23 foot box. Empty weight ~4,300 pounds. GVWR 6,600 pounds. Weight with full fresh water and empty grey / black while traveling with the family typically ranges from 5,000 to 5,500 pounds. Tongue weight is usually around 900 when traveling. The hitch is 70 pounds. So around 1,000 hitch weight.
The hitch is a simple round bar style Reese with the chains that go to brackets on the tongue. No built in sway control. It does have a friction type anti-sway device which I've never used with this truck and probably wont bother ever putting it on. Towing with 18% tongue weight has a way of rendering additional sway control unnecessary.
So really not a lot of trailer for this truck. Sometimes forget I'm towing it.
The hitch is a simple round bar style Reese with the chains that go to brackets on the tongue. No built in sway control. It does have a friction type anti-sway device which I've never used with this truck and probably wont bother ever putting it on. Towing with 18% tongue weight has a way of rendering additional sway control unnecessary.
So really not a lot of trailer for this truck. Sometimes forget I'm towing it.
Great point. May I ask you to consider: If something requires a sledge hammer I use a sledge hammer. If I need a framing hammer, same and a finish hammer for finish work. This guy could use a diesel.
01-28-2018, 10:51 PM
#67
The OP is driving finish nails 70% of the time and 10d's the other 30%. Now the guy with the 20,000 pound horse trailer... he needs a diesel.
01-29-2018, 12:40 PM
#68
Senior Member
For me, when I was towing my kid's horse all over the PacNW with its mountain passes, it came down to my tolerance for white knuckling it down twisty mountain roads, often in the rain, often either early or late in the day, occasionally in the dark.
My '07 F150 XLT crewcab 5.4 v8 did just fine with a 3,000 lb trailer, a 1100 lb horse, and all kinds of horse crap when I was on relatively flat ground. Once I started going up and down mountain passes and long highway trips it just wasn't cutting it. Felt like the tail could wag the dog at any minute, the truck just did not have the weight and stability I wanted, especially going down miles long twisty mountain passes.
I lived in constant fear of an emergency situation that I would not be able to deal with.
Finally bought a '12 F250 crewcab diesel w 6.5' bed and after the first tow (local) I was kicking myself for not buying one years ago. Night and day difference. I now felt in complete control and very safe. Later I wished I had gotten an F350 as it seemed we were packing more and more stuff into that truck/trailer.
The F250 worked fine as a daily driver for me, I just accepted the fact that I was driving a land barge and adjusted accordingly. And I loved it on the highway, towing or not, it was a mileage eater, easily the best long distance vehicle I have ever owned and I really miss it now.
Traded the F250 in when my kid went to college, thought we were getting rid of the horse. Nope. Horse is still around and now I get to tow the freaking thing with my '17 F150. Thank goodness I will only be towing it a few times a year now instead of all the time.
A friend of mine years ago told me when I quizzed him why he had a Dodge 3500 as a daily driver "you never want to be under-trucked", and I agree with him.
I'd rather have too much truck 80 or 90% of the time, then not enough truck 20 - 10% of the time (or even 1% of the time for me), its just not worth it to me. Especially when you've got your family in the vehicle with you.
If I was the OP I would be looking for a F250 gasser.
My '07 F150 XLT crewcab 5.4 v8 did just fine with a 3,000 lb trailer, a 1100 lb horse, and all kinds of horse crap when I was on relatively flat ground. Once I started going up and down mountain passes and long highway trips it just wasn't cutting it. Felt like the tail could wag the dog at any minute, the truck just did not have the weight and stability I wanted, especially going down miles long twisty mountain passes.
I lived in constant fear of an emergency situation that I would not be able to deal with.
Finally bought a '12 F250 crewcab diesel w 6.5' bed and after the first tow (local) I was kicking myself for not buying one years ago. Night and day difference. I now felt in complete control and very safe. Later I wished I had gotten an F350 as it seemed we were packing more and more stuff into that truck/trailer.
The F250 worked fine as a daily driver for me, I just accepted the fact that I was driving a land barge and adjusted accordingly. And I loved it on the highway, towing or not, it was a mileage eater, easily the best long distance vehicle I have ever owned and I really miss it now.
Traded the F250 in when my kid went to college, thought we were getting rid of the horse. Nope. Horse is still around and now I get to tow the freaking thing with my '17 F150. Thank goodness I will only be towing it a few times a year now instead of all the time.
A friend of mine years ago told me when I quizzed him why he had a Dodge 3500 as a daily driver "you never want to be under-trucked", and I agree with him.
I'd rather have too much truck 80 or 90% of the time, then not enough truck 20 - 10% of the time (or even 1% of the time for me), its just not worth it to me. Especially when you've got your family in the vehicle with you.
If I was the OP I would be looking for a F250 gasser.
01-29-2018, 01:30 PM
#70
you know something not mentioned is the near complete lack of engine braking available in the ecoboost... plenty of power, but get on a long hill descent and there just isn't enough displacement to do much.
when both options can do either, i think you have to ask, do you prefer having a capable truck that is more enjoyable unloaded or a more enjoyable towing experience that is going to cost more to run and will be less comfortable unloaded? (although i think they've come a long way comfort wise on the SD's)
when both options can do either, i think you have to ask, do you prefer having a capable truck that is more enjoyable unloaded or a more enjoyable towing experience that is going to cost more to run and will be less comfortable unloaded? (although i think they've come a long way comfort wise on the SD's)