23 to 36 Gallon Fuel Tank Conversion
05-04-2017, 12:35 PM
#131
Senior Member
does anyone know would a 36 gallon out of a 15 or 16 f150 work in my new 17 f150? was thinking about start checking out junk yards see if I could get the tank, pump, and shield and install in my 17.
05-05-2017, 03:10 PM
#132
I would advise you to go with a new fuel pump, and avoid one from a salvage yard. No telling if the used fuel pump had any issues.
05-05-2017, 05:39 PM
#133
Senior Member
I just looked through about 60 window stickers at my dealer and slightly over half have a 36 gallon tank. I think all the King Ranch have the 36s so without them it would be about 50/50.
05-05-2017, 05:44 PM
#134
Senior Member
Pretty much all the trucks I looked at had the 36 gallon tank. Better to try and get it at time of purchase. Much cheaper.
05-07-2017, 07:24 PM
#135
I just did the swap over the weekend. I was able to get one from a 2015 that was totaled because of flood damage and it fit my 2016 just fine. I will say, that had I known what a pain it was going to be, I probably wouldn't have done it. I am a backyard mechanic from way back, and I think that was the problem (the "way back" part
). I am not as nimble and flexible as I once was and found it difficult contorting into some of the positions required.
All in all, it took close to 4 hours, although I did spend a part of that time cleaning the donor tank, spaying undercoating after the tank was out, and re-routing some wires that the "pro's" did when they put my cap on.
A few helpful hints...
1 If you can, get your hands on the wire harness and hose connections beforehand so you can see what's required to disengage them. You can't see them and need to disconnect them by feel. This probably took me the longest.
2. Lay under the tank and push it up into position, but keep your tools within arms reach
3. When connecting the fill tube, remove the bolt that holds it in place right inside the fender well. This gives you just enough slack to easily reconnect it.
Sorry for the long post.
). I am not as nimble and flexible as I once was and found it difficult contorting into some of the positions required. All in all, it took close to 4 hours, although I did spend a part of that time cleaning the donor tank, spaying undercoating after the tank was out, and re-routing some wires that the "pro's" did when they put my cap on.
A few helpful hints...
1 If you can, get your hands on the wire harness and hose connections beforehand so you can see what's required to disengage them. You can't see them and need to disconnect them by feel. This probably took me the longest.
2. Lay under the tank and push it up into position, but keep your tools within arms reach
3. When connecting the fill tube, remove the bolt that holds it in place right inside the fender well. This gives you just enough slack to easily reconnect it.
Sorry for the long post.
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05-07-2017, 10:05 PM
#136
Senior Member
I just did the swap over the weekend. I was able to get one from a 2015 that was totaled because of flood damage and it fit my 2016 just fine. I will say, that had I known what a pain it was going to be, I probably wouldn't have done it. I am a backyard mechanic from way back, and I think that was the problem (the "way back" part). I am not as nimble and flexible as I once was and found it difficult contorting into some of the positions required.
All in all, it took close to 4 hours, although I did spend a part of that time cleaning the donor tank, spaying undercoating after the tank was out, and re-routing some wires that the "pro's" did when they put my cap on.
A few helpful hints...
1 If you can, get your hands on the wire harness and hose connections beforehand so you can see what's required to disengage them. You can't see them and need to disconnect them by feel. This probably took me the longest.
2. Lay under the tank and push it up into position, but keep your tools within arms reach
3. When connecting the fill tube, remove the bolt that holds it in place right inside the fender well. This gives you just enough slack to easily reconnect it.
Sorry for the long post.
). I am not as nimble and flexible as I once was and found it difficult contorting into some of the positions required. All in all, it took close to 4 hours, although I did spend a part of that time cleaning the donor tank, spaying undercoating after the tank was out, and re-routing some wires that the "pro's" did when they put my cap on.
A few helpful hints...
1 If you can, get your hands on the wire harness and hose connections beforehand so you can see what's required to disengage them. You can't see them and need to disconnect them by feel. This probably took me the longest.
2. Lay under the tank and push it up into position, but keep your tools within arms reach
3. When connecting the fill tube, remove the bolt that holds it in place right inside the fender well. This gives you just enough slack to easily reconnect it.
Sorry for the long post.
Thank for the info looking at doing this, gonna start buying some parts for my 17 to do this. You didn't have to cut or modify anything it just slipped into place? What did you do about resetting your DTE? Am guessing if you don't reset dte it will not read correctly for mpg reading's?
05-07-2017, 11:41 PM
#137
Thank for the info looking at doing this, gonna start buying some parts for my 17 to do this. You didn't have to cut or modify anything it just slipped into place? What did you do about resetting your DTE? Am guessing if you don't reset dte it will not read correctly for mpg reading's?
05-08-2017, 09:29 AM
#138
Thank for the info looking at doing this, gonna start buying some parts for my 17 to do this. You didn't have to cut or modify anything it just slipped into place? What did you do about resetting your DTE? Am guessing if you don't reset dte it will not read correctly for mpg reading's?
I did have to swap one of the hoses on top of the tank. My 23 gallon tank had a wire harness that connected to one of them, the donor from a 2015 did not. Easy enough to do, just release it from the clips and pop the correct one right back in it's place. Other than that, direct replacement.
One other word of caution. If you are buying from a salvage yard, have them measure it before going to get it. I found 3 in Wisconsin that were listed as 36 gallon that turned out to be 23. The correct length needs to be right around 74".
05-08-2017, 05:13 PM
#139
I did this swap in late March. It was not difficult, just took my time and had my son help. Here's a write-up I pm'd to another member. Thought it might help others.
Locate a tank from a salvage yard. Make sure it has the heat shield attached. Expect to pay between $200 - $450. Shipping can run upwards of $150. I was able to find one about 85 miles away for $250 and picked it up. Also get the VIN number from the donor truck. You will need that when ordering the new fuel pump. Fuel pump from the 23 gallon tank won't work. So you need a new fuel pump and a new gasket.
Fuel pump,#FL3Z-9H307-F and gasket #4L3Z-9276-AA
You want to run the fuel down so there is not much left. I carried a can in the bed of the truck with 3 gallons in case I ran out. Drove until I had gone 22 miles past the DTE indicated 0 miles to empty.
Do not try this alone. An extra set of hands is mandatory. Plan on taking three to four hours from start to finish.
Chock the front tires.
Jack the rear of the truck up and place Jack stands to support.
Disconnect the negative post at the battery.
Disconnect the fuel line and the EVAP line just ahead of the tank. Some fuel will spill out. Do not use any tools in disconnecting any lines. You run the risk of breakage. Each connector is different and disconnecting each is different as well. You will have to play around with pinching and see if they will unlock. Just be patient and don't force anything.
Use a 13mm socket, extension, and impact gun to loosen and remove the front tank strap bolt. If you don't have an impact gun, buy one.
Move the strap to the side.
Loosen the rear tank strap bolt to gain access to the electrical connections, one for the fuel pump and one for the pressure transducer. These are extremely easy to break the locks, especially on the transducer plug. Take your time and don't force anything.
Disconnect both electrical plugs.
Remove the rear tank strap bolt, and move the strap aside. The tank will be hanging by the fill tube.
Loosen the clamp that secures the fill tube. The tank should drop. Slide out from under truck.
Remove the fuel line and EVAP line from your old tank and install onto 36 gallon tank.
Remove the lock ring that secures the fuel pump on the old tak. You will need this to lock the new fuel pump to the new tank. Take note of the fuel pump orientation on your old tank.
Set the new gasket into the groove around the pump opening in the new tank.
Pull the fuel line with connector inside the new tank and connect to the lower portion of the new fuel pump.
Set fuel pump into new tank, matching the orientation noted on the old tank.
Set the lock ring in place. Use a punch and hammer to rotate the ring into its lock position.
Connect the fuel and EVAP lines to the fuel pump. They should push on and click.
Set the new tank under the truck.
Connect the fill tube and tighten the clamp.
Connect the two electrical plugs, making sure they lock.
Install the rear tank strap and start the bolt, but do not fully tighten.
Do the same for the front strap.
Connect the fuel line and EVAP line, now above the front of the tank instead of in front of the tank.
Tighten both tank strap bolts.
Clean up the work area.
Slightly raise truck and remove Jack stands.
Lower truck and remove Jack.
Put five gallons of fuel in the tank.
Reconnect battery.
Turn key to start several times to pressurize tank.
Start truck and check for leaks.
Using Forscan, access the IPC module.
Change 720-03-01 2003 67XX XXXX (where the Xs vary depending on the program), to:
720-03-01 2005 54XX XXXX
Forscan may indicate the checksum is not correct. Go ahead and apply anyway. Forscan will correct the checksum automatically. The checksum is the last four digits in the string.
If you don't make the change to the IOC code using Forscan, the miles to empty will be in error. Fuel gage will work regardless. If unfamiliar with Forscan, suggest you read the sticky on the forum.
Grab your wallet, check you have lots of money, and go fill 'er up.
Good luck.
Locate a tank from a salvage yard. Make sure it has the heat shield attached. Expect to pay between $200 - $450. Shipping can run upwards of $150. I was able to find one about 85 miles away for $250 and picked it up. Also get the VIN number from the donor truck. You will need that when ordering the new fuel pump. Fuel pump from the 23 gallon tank won't work. So you need a new fuel pump and a new gasket.
Fuel pump,#FL3Z-9H307-F and gasket #4L3Z-9276-AA
You want to run the fuel down so there is not much left. I carried a can in the bed of the truck with 3 gallons in case I ran out. Drove until I had gone 22 miles past the DTE indicated 0 miles to empty.
Do not try this alone. An extra set of hands is mandatory. Plan on taking three to four hours from start to finish.
Chock the front tires.
Jack the rear of the truck up and place Jack stands to support.
Disconnect the negative post at the battery.
Disconnect the fuel line and the EVAP line just ahead of the tank. Some fuel will spill out. Do not use any tools in disconnecting any lines. You run the risk of breakage. Each connector is different and disconnecting each is different as well. You will have to play around with pinching and see if they will unlock. Just be patient and don't force anything.
Use a 13mm socket, extension, and impact gun to loosen and remove the front tank strap bolt. If you don't have an impact gun, buy one.
Move the strap to the side.
Loosen the rear tank strap bolt to gain access to the electrical connections, one for the fuel pump and one for the pressure transducer. These are extremely easy to break the locks, especially on the transducer plug. Take your time and don't force anything.
Disconnect both electrical plugs.
Remove the rear tank strap bolt, and move the strap aside. The tank will be hanging by the fill tube.
Loosen the clamp that secures the fill tube. The tank should drop. Slide out from under truck.
Remove the fuel line and EVAP line from your old tank and install onto 36 gallon tank.
Remove the lock ring that secures the fuel pump on the old tak. You will need this to lock the new fuel pump to the new tank. Take note of the fuel pump orientation on your old tank.
Set the new gasket into the groove around the pump opening in the new tank.
Pull the fuel line with connector inside the new tank and connect to the lower portion of the new fuel pump.
Set fuel pump into new tank, matching the orientation noted on the old tank.
Set the lock ring in place. Use a punch and hammer to rotate the ring into its lock position.
Connect the fuel and EVAP lines to the fuel pump. They should push on and click.
Set the new tank under the truck.
Connect the fill tube and tighten the clamp.
Connect the two electrical plugs, making sure they lock.
Install the rear tank strap and start the bolt, but do not fully tighten.
Do the same for the front strap.
Connect the fuel line and EVAP line, now above the front of the tank instead of in front of the tank.
Tighten both tank strap bolts.
Clean up the work area.
Slightly raise truck and remove Jack stands.
Lower truck and remove Jack.
Put five gallons of fuel in the tank.
Reconnect battery.
Turn key to start several times to pressurize tank.
Start truck and check for leaks.
Using Forscan, access the IPC module.
Change 720-03-01 2003 67XX XXXX (where the Xs vary depending on the program), to:
720-03-01 2005 54XX XXXX
Forscan may indicate the checksum is not correct. Go ahead and apply anyway. Forscan will correct the checksum automatically. The checksum is the last four digits in the string.
If you don't make the change to the IOC code using Forscan, the miles to empty will be in error. Fuel gage will work regardless. If unfamiliar with Forscan, suggest you read the sticky on the forum.
Grab your wallet, check you have lots of money, and go fill 'er up.
Good luck.
Last edited by HuskyOwner; 05-08-2017 at 10:13 PM.
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05-08-2017, 05:57 PM
#140
Senior Member
I did this swap in late March. It was not difficult, just took my time and and had my son help. Here's a write-up I pm'd to another member. Thought it might help others.
Locate a tank from a salvage yard. Make sure it has the heat shield attached. Expect to pay between $200 - $450. Shipping can run upwards of $150. I was able to find one about 85 miles away for $250 and picked it up. Also get the VIN number from the donor truck. You will need that when ordering the new fuel pump. Fuel pump from the 23 gallon tank won't work. So you need a new fuel pump and a new gasket.
Fuel pump,#FL3Z-9H307-F and gasket #4L3Z-9276-AA
You want to run the fuel down so there is not much left. I carried a can in the bed of the truck with 3 gallons in case I ran out. Drove until I had gone 22 miles past the DTE indicated 0 miles to empty.
Do not try this alone. An extra set of hands is mandatory. Plan on taking three to four hours from start to finish.
Chock the front tires.
Jack the rear of the truck up and place Jack stands to support.
Disconnect the negative post at the battery.
Disconnect the fuel line and the EVAP line just ahead of the tank. Some fuel will spill out. Do not use any tools in disconnecting any lines. You run the risk of breakage. Each connector is different and disconnecting each is different as well. You will have to play around with pinching and see if they will unlock. Just be patient and don't force anything.
Use a 13mm socket, extension, and impact gun to loosen and remove the front tank strap bolt. If you don't have an impact gun, buy one.
Move the strap to the side.
Loosen the rear tank strap bolt to gain access to the electrical connections, one for the fuel pump and one for the pressure transducer. These are extremely easy to break the locks, especially on the transducer plug. Take your time and don't force anything.
Disconnect both electrical plugs.
Remove the rear tank strap bolt, and move the strap aside. The tank will be hanging by the fill tube.
Loosen the clamp that secures the fill tube. The tank should drop. Slide out from under truck.
Remove the fuel line and EVAP line from your old tank and install onto 36 gallon tank.
Remove the lock ring that secures the fuel pump on the old tak. You will need this to lock the new fuel pump to the new tank. Take note of the fuel pump orientation on your old tank.
Set the new gasket into the groove around the pump opening in the new tank.
Pull the fuel line with connector inside the new tank and connect to the lower portion of the new fuel pump.
Set fuel pump into new tank, matching the orientation noted on the old tank.
Set the lock ring in place. Use a punch and hammer to rotate the ring into its lock position.
Connect the fuel and EVAP lines to the fuel pump. They should push on and click.
Set the new tank under the truck.
Connect the fill tube and tighten the clamp.
Connect the two electrical plugs, making sure they lock.
Install the rear tank strap and start the bolt, but do not fully tighten.
Do the same for the front strap.
Connect the fuel line and EVAP line, now above the front of the tank instead of in front of the tank.
Tighten both tank strap bolts.
Clean up the work area.
Slightly raise truck and remove Jack stands.
Lower truck and remove Jack.
Put five gallons of fuel in the tank.
Reconnect battery.
Turn key to start several times to pressurize tank.
Start truck and check for leaks.
Using Forscan, access the IPC module.
Change 720-03-01 2003 67XX XXXX (where the Xs vary depending on the program), to:
720-03-01 2005 54XX XXXX
Forscan may indicate the checksum is not correct. Go ahead and apply anyway. Forscan will correct the checksum automatically. The checksum is the last four digits in the string.
If you don't make the change to the IOC code using Forscan, the miles to empty will be in error. Fuel gage will work regardless. If unfamiliar with Forscan, suggest you read the sticky on the forum.
Grab your wallet, check you have lots of money, and go fill 'er up.
Good luck.
Locate a tank from a salvage yard. Make sure it has the heat shield attached. Expect to pay between $200 - $450. Shipping can run upwards of $150. I was able to find one about 85 miles away for $250 and picked it up. Also get the VIN number from the donor truck. You will need that when ordering the new fuel pump. Fuel pump from the 23 gallon tank won't work. So you need a new fuel pump and a new gasket.
Fuel pump,#FL3Z-9H307-F and gasket #4L3Z-9276-AA
You want to run the fuel down so there is not much left. I carried a can in the bed of the truck with 3 gallons in case I ran out. Drove until I had gone 22 miles past the DTE indicated 0 miles to empty.
Do not try this alone. An extra set of hands is mandatory. Plan on taking three to four hours from start to finish.
Chock the front tires.
Jack the rear of the truck up and place Jack stands to support.
Disconnect the negative post at the battery.
Disconnect the fuel line and the EVAP line just ahead of the tank. Some fuel will spill out. Do not use any tools in disconnecting any lines. You run the risk of breakage. Each connector is different and disconnecting each is different as well. You will have to play around with pinching and see if they will unlock. Just be patient and don't force anything.
Use a 13mm socket, extension, and impact gun to loosen and remove the front tank strap bolt. If you don't have an impact gun, buy one.
Move the strap to the side.
Loosen the rear tank strap bolt to gain access to the electrical connections, one for the fuel pump and one for the pressure transducer. These are extremely easy to break the locks, especially on the transducer plug. Take your time and don't force anything.
Disconnect both electrical plugs.
Remove the rear tank strap bolt, and move the strap aside. The tank will be hanging by the fill tube.
Loosen the clamp that secures the fill tube. The tank should drop. Slide out from under truck.
Remove the fuel line and EVAP line from your old tank and install onto 36 gallon tank.
Remove the lock ring that secures the fuel pump on the old tak. You will need this to lock the new fuel pump to the new tank. Take note of the fuel pump orientation on your old tank.
Set the new gasket into the groove around the pump opening in the new tank.
Pull the fuel line with connector inside the new tank and connect to the lower portion of the new fuel pump.
Set fuel pump into new tank, matching the orientation noted on the old tank.
Set the lock ring in place. Use a punch and hammer to rotate the ring into its lock position.
Connect the fuel and EVAP lines to the fuel pump. They should push on and click.
Set the new tank under the truck.
Connect the fill tube and tighten the clamp.
Connect the two electrical plugs, making sure they lock.
Install the rear tank strap and start the bolt, but do not fully tighten.
Do the same for the front strap.
Connect the fuel line and EVAP line, now above the front of the tank instead of in front of the tank.
Tighten both tank strap bolts.
Clean up the work area.
Slightly raise truck and remove Jack stands.
Lower truck and remove Jack.
Put five gallons of fuel in the tank.
Reconnect battery.
Turn key to start several times to pressurize tank.
Start truck and check for leaks.
Using Forscan, access the IPC module.
Change 720-03-01 2003 67XX XXXX (where the Xs vary depending on the program), to:
720-03-01 2005 54XX XXXX
Forscan may indicate the checksum is not correct. Go ahead and apply anyway. Forscan will correct the checksum automatically. The checksum is the last four digits in the string.
If you don't make the change to the IOC code using Forscan, the miles to empty will be in error. Fuel gage will work regardless. If unfamiliar with Forscan, suggest you read the sticky on the forum.
Grab your wallet, check you have lots of money, and go fill 'er up.
Good luck.
wow!!!! thanks for the info very much