2019 F150 screw car audio questions
07-07-2021, 02:01 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
2019 F150 screw car audio questions
I have a 2019 screw with 8” touchscreen non factory amplified system. I’ve spent hours and hours doing research on this forum and others trying to design my system. Sorry for the long post, but there’s so much conflicting info out there. Each time there’s 1 last question on what I’m going to order, some or all needs to be changed. Over years I’ve found out the hard way there’s never money to do it right, but there’s always money to do it again. It’s very hard for me to get funds to use on the truck. I’ll probably always use the factory HU.
Currently I have everything stock except LC2i, 2x Kicker L7T loaded enclosures, on 500 watts. The Lc2i, is connected to the rear speaker wires at the B pillar. My amp power is connected to the battery, via 4 gauge through the passenger side wiring harness grommet. Remote connected at the fuse panel. The LC2i comes highly recommended on forums, but when I had to reach out to reputable shops to help with tuning issues, that didn’t seem to be the case. After spending hours on multiple days trying different ways other people recommended, I agree it just doesn’t send a clean signal and leaves so much on the table.
I purchased Sundown SFB-1500 for my subs. 25’ 0 gauge power and ground wire with 5/16 lugs to crimp, hammer style crimper, 1/2” red/black expandable loom, 200 amp circuit breaker, Knukonceptz 3 way distribution block, ground distribution block, and ferrules. For-11ck style harness.
The best seemed to be power and ground should run across firewall to the driver side grommet. Is this correct? How do you get the 2x 0 gauge wires over there, and how hard is it to get them through the grommet, and to the back? When hooking up the harness to the radio, should I buy speed wire to run down the passenger side, but only connect to the front channel speaker wires? Is a 1/4” abs plastic amp rack behind rear seat the best option? Is there a cheaper place for abs than Amazon.
I don’t know how much more I can afford right now. Even if I had a huge budget it appears stock rear speakers shouldn’t be replaced. So many people seemed to keep upgrading their front speakers, but tell others they regret it, recommending people stop at moderate. At 42 I’m still a bass head, not only loving Bass Mekanik, but rock and metal. Subwoofers are great, but mid bass is so important. It seems to be a challenge in these trucks to get good mid bass, even after you sound treat them. What do you guys recommend for speakers that don’t break the bank? Currently I have a new Alpine 4x45 watt amp new in the box.
What do you guys recommend other than sound treatment? For DSP is the Dayton 408 the best route? How do I need to hook the DSP up? Can I get rid of the LC2i? If I can only purchase the DSP or speakers right now, which should I choose?
Currently I have everything stock except LC2i, 2x Kicker L7T loaded enclosures, on 500 watts. The Lc2i, is connected to the rear speaker wires at the B pillar. My amp power is connected to the battery, via 4 gauge through the passenger side wiring harness grommet. Remote connected at the fuse panel. The LC2i comes highly recommended on forums, but when I had to reach out to reputable shops to help with tuning issues, that didn’t seem to be the case. After spending hours on multiple days trying different ways other people recommended, I agree it just doesn’t send a clean signal and leaves so much on the table.
I purchased Sundown SFB-1500 for my subs. 25’ 0 gauge power and ground wire with 5/16 lugs to crimp, hammer style crimper, 1/2” red/black expandable loom, 200 amp circuit breaker, Knukonceptz 3 way distribution block, ground distribution block, and ferrules. For-11ck style harness.
The best seemed to be power and ground should run across firewall to the driver side grommet. Is this correct? How do you get the 2x 0 gauge wires over there, and how hard is it to get them through the grommet, and to the back? When hooking up the harness to the radio, should I buy speed wire to run down the passenger side, but only connect to the front channel speaker wires? Is a 1/4” abs plastic amp rack behind rear seat the best option? Is there a cheaper place for abs than Amazon.
I don’t know how much more I can afford right now. Even if I had a huge budget it appears stock rear speakers shouldn’t be replaced. So many people seemed to keep upgrading their front speakers, but tell others they regret it, recommending people stop at moderate. At 42 I’m still a bass head, not only loving Bass Mekanik, but rock and metal. Subwoofers are great, but mid bass is so important. It seems to be a challenge in these trucks to get good mid bass, even after you sound treat them. What do you guys recommend for speakers that don’t break the bank? Currently I have a new Alpine 4x45 watt amp new in the box.
What do you guys recommend other than sound treatment? For DSP is the Dayton 408 the best route? How do I need to hook the DSP up? Can I get rid of the LC2i? If I can only purchase the DSP or speakers right now, which should I choose?
07-08-2021, 11:15 AM
#3
Large Member
I have a 2019 screw with 8” touchscreen non factory amplified system. I’ve spent hours and hours doing research on this forum and others trying to design my system. Sorry for the long post, but there’s so much conflicting info out there. Each time there’s 1 last question on what I’m going to order, some or all needs to be changed. Over years I’ve found out the hard way there’s never money to do it right, but there’s always money to do it again. It’s very hard for me to get funds to use on the truck. I’ll probably always use the factory HU.
Currently I have everything stock except LC2i, 2x Kicker L7T loaded enclosures, on 500 watts. The Lc2i, is connected to the rear speaker wires at the B pillar. My amp power is connected to the battery, via 4 gauge through the passenger side wiring harness grommet. Remote connected at the fuse panel. The LC2i comes highly recommended on forums, but when I had to reach out to reputable shops to help with tuning issues, that didn’t seem to be the case. After spending hours on multiple days trying different ways other people recommended, I agree it just doesn’t send a clean signal and leaves so much on the table.
I purchased Sundown SFB-1500 for my subs. 25’ 0 gauge power and ground wire with 5/16 lugs to crimp, hammer style crimper, 1/2” red/black expandable loom, 200 amp circuit breaker, Knukonceptz 3 way distribution block, ground distribution block, and ferrules. For-11ck style harness.
The best seemed to be power and ground should run across firewall to the driver side grommet. Is this correct? How do you get the 2x 0 gauge wires over there, and how hard is it to get them through the grommet, and to the back? When hooking up the harness to the radio, should I buy speed wire to run down the passenger side, but only connect to the front channel speaker wires? Is a 1/4” abs plastic amp rack behind rear seat the best option? Is there a cheaper place for abs than Amazon.
I don’t know how much more I can afford right now. Even if I had a huge budget it appears stock rear speakers shouldn’t be replaced. So many people seemed to keep upgrading their front speakers, but tell others they regret it, recommending people stop at moderate. At 42 I’m still a bass head, not only loving Bass Mekanik, but rock and metal. Subwoofers are great, but mid bass is so important. It seems to be a challenge in these trucks to get good mid bass, even after you sound treat them. What do you guys recommend for speakers that don’t break the bank? Currently I have a new Alpine 4x45 watt amp new in the box.
What do you guys recommend other than sound treatment? For DSP is the Dayton 408 the best route? How do I need to hook the DSP up? Can I get rid of the LC2i? If I can only purchase the DSP or speakers right now, which should I choose?
Currently I have everything stock except LC2i, 2x Kicker L7T loaded enclosures, on 500 watts. The Lc2i, is connected to the rear speaker wires at the B pillar. My amp power is connected to the battery, via 4 gauge through the passenger side wiring harness grommet. Remote connected at the fuse panel. The LC2i comes highly recommended on forums, but when I had to reach out to reputable shops to help with tuning issues, that didn’t seem to be the case. After spending hours on multiple days trying different ways other people recommended, I agree it just doesn’t send a clean signal and leaves so much on the table.
I purchased Sundown SFB-1500 for my subs. 25’ 0 gauge power and ground wire with 5/16 lugs to crimp, hammer style crimper, 1/2” red/black expandable loom, 200 amp circuit breaker, Knukonceptz 3 way distribution block, ground distribution block, and ferrules. For-11ck style harness.
The best seemed to be power and ground should run across firewall to the driver side grommet. Is this correct? How do you get the 2x 0 gauge wires over there, and how hard is it to get them through the grommet, and to the back? When hooking up the harness to the radio, should I buy speed wire to run down the passenger side, but only connect to the front channel speaker wires? Is a 1/4” abs plastic amp rack behind rear seat the best option? Is there a cheaper place for abs than Amazon.
I don’t know how much more I can afford right now. Even if I had a huge budget it appears stock rear speakers shouldn’t be replaced. So many people seemed to keep upgrading their front speakers, but tell others they regret it, recommending people stop at moderate. At 42 I’m still a bass head, not only loving Bass Mekanik, but rock and metal. Subwoofers are great, but mid bass is so important. It seems to be a challenge in these trucks to get good mid bass, even after you sound treat them. What do you guys recommend for speakers that don’t break the bank? Currently I have a new Alpine 4x45 watt amp new in the box.
What do you guys recommend other than sound treatment? For DSP is the Dayton 408 the best route? How do I need to hook the DSP up? Can I get rid of the LC2i? If I can only purchase the DSP or speakers right now, which should I choose?
07-09-2021, 12:22 AM
#4
Senior Member
The LC2i comes highly recommended on forums, but when I had to reach out to reputable shops to help with tuning issues, that didn’t seem to be the case. After spending hours on multiple days trying different ways other people recommended, I agree it just doesn’t send a clean signal and leaves so much on the table.
07-09-2021, 08:16 PM
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I’ve had multiple issues with my motor- 5.0, radio, and other things that require me constantly going to the dealer. They can’t seem to get them fixed. My 5.0 goes through so much oil, along with horrible spark knock. Finally I was given the okay to install a system without voiding any warranty. But Forscan will void the warranty. Is this not correct?
07-10-2021, 05:06 AM
#6
Senior Member
Most re-install the original files before going in for warranty work. Personally, I'd leave a mod to the ACM if they are working on, say, the transmission, because they have no reason to go hunting through modules not related to the transmission, and even if they did, the burden is always on them to prove that any modification resulted in a failed component.