I have a 2018 with a 5.0 my problem is it won’t start randomly acts like a dead battery but you can hook jumper cables up and get right in it and it will start right if it was dead enough to not turn over you would thing it would take longer then 20-30 seconds to charge enough to start this problem never happens after sitting over night or for long periods but seams to happen more when sitting from 10-45 mins doesn’t happen all the time maybe once a week alternator seams to be charging when I put my meter on it seams like a battery issue but don’t see how it could be

 

Get your battery tested including a load test. These trucks, with Auto-Stop-Start, are hard on batteries and all the electronics are often unhappy if the voltage drops too low during an engine crank.

 

Welcome, if its the original its overdue for replacement in my opinion!

 

My '18 is also starting to show signs of battery issues. It sounds "tired" when I hit the remote start. I replaced the battery in 2 other of my cars over the past 2 months so looks like this will be the third.

 

original battery? replace it

 

Sounds more like a loose connection somewhere. Check the battery terminals and all connections to/from alternator and starter. Definitely get the battery load tested as well.

 

I am in the "replace it" crowd also if it is the original battery. If not, I would have it load tested as mentioned already.

 

I was thinking I am the only one with this weird glitch. Bought my truck in July this year and almost immediately this issue appeared but happened just couple of times in several months. However, I had it at least 5 times in December already. Funny fact this is could occur when I start it with the key only, not through remote start. One time, though, I had something similar with the remote start but it was far away not that bad like with the key so not sure...
Because the issue was so random I couldn't reproduce it when needed (for example to demonstrate the problem for mechanic). They checked my battery (tested it), starter, alternator, all the cables between those and nothing, everything looks good and have no issues. I also had another key, was thinking maybe it is immobilizer or something related to it. Nope, same issue with both keys randomly.
So what I did, I decided to start the car with the key only now and record every single time I start it. Yes, I know, this is crazy. But hey! I got it, now I have a video that clearly demonstrates the issue.

My next step is to buy a new battery, even it was tested I feel maybe something wrong with it. I do not know if it is original or not, as I own the car for couple of months only.
I also started to think about another minor issue I have, that it could be connected. My turn signals inside the car are blinking very quickly. Usually it is a dead bulb somewhere (not my case) or one of the bulbs will die soon (because outside it blinks with normal speed). So now, my theory, maybe it is a battery issue too, not sure.

Here is the link to the video (use audio to hear when that issues occurs) and details with timings. If anyone could share their thoughts or recommendations before I buy (and maybe waste) a new battery please let me know. THANK YOU!

 

I have saw that reaction many times over the years.
Power is being lost from a poor ground.
Try to think about how this happens.
High Current at attempted 'beginning' of cranking generates very high heat across the Resistance of a poor connection and a resulting voltage drop.
If can actually burn the connection area 'open' and melt the metal around the connection and even form corrosion.
At second cranking, that metal is already hard and cool.
This completes the connection and allows cranking across it, that is bound to fail often as the sequence repeats over several starts to aggravate the condition.
The loss of Dash display from low or missing power is my hint about this, when the very high current for cranking is attempted.
Any voltage drop across a poor connection leaves little to nothing for the rest of the system.
The Body Control Module completes the power cut through to the starter. If it can't do that, no starter function for it to do that and no power to the starter.
.
To demonstrate an example of this using electrical law, a voltage divided by resistance would show that even a half ohm of connection resistance will result is a voltage drop far below requirements. V drop = 12.3 bat. v. / .5 ohm resistance = 6.15 volts loss across that resistance, a half ohm. That's half the total Battery voltage.
.
The heat generated at the connection would be voltage drop of 6.15v squared, divided by .5 ohm = about 75 watts of heat power.
.
The above seems to suggest the starter is good, the battery is good but a connection is the root cause.
Good luck.

 

Not to hijack the thread but is there a way to tell the battery age? OEM Motorcraft battery but cant find where the date code is or any reference

TIA