tflux

I did my first oil change yesterday and thought i would share a few things-

1) The cover that you take off to access the drain plug is kind of a pain... not terrible, but seems silly. I guess it's for better aero. I guess it's worth it if it gets me better mpg.

2) The new drain plug must be taken off by hand only. I think the previous models had a 3/8 square drive hole, not mine. It's not easy to take out the drain plug by hand. I will probably use a pliers next time.

3) It's a messy drain. The oil drains right on the sway bar. I thought i did a good job placing the drain pan. But after I let it drain for a while, there was oil on the floor. Maybe it traveled along the sway bar and dripped down?
PS. It comes out fast! but you are supposed to let it drain for a long time (20 min?) due to the auto start-stop design.

4) The little O-ring for the filter is hard to get on. It has to stretch A LOT to put it on.

5) The red O-ring paint comes off when you install the O-rings. ugh, smh. Can't ford just give us unpainted O-rings?!! I'm not sure it matters, but i spent a few minutes wiping the paint flakes off the canister before i screwed the canister back down.

6) I like the canister. I didn't spill a drop of oil on the motor during the change. And it gives you a torque spec right on the canister. (24 Nm +/- 2).

Like2Hike

Is the pan still plastic? What is your build date? A recent post on a new 3.5L had an aluminum pan, apparently because of the numerous oil leaks with those two engines.

tflux

My pan is plastic. Build date is late 2017 (Oct or Nov I think). So far, my pan is not leaking.

Napalm

yeah I found after taking off the plug twice it got a little bit easier - just new. I did buy a spare plug that I keep in the glove box - incase I muck up the OE one. Though I don't expect to - it was 2 dollars.

On the canister - that top oring does take some effort someone found out you can use the top of a super glue tube to help guide it on. Ie the red top piece.

Yes I found my first time doing the oil change that the oil shoots out of the hold some number of feet - missed my pan by a good 3 foot or so. I've read you are supposed to open the oil filter canister first before draiing - so I plan on trying this the next time.

FYI I run to about 30% OLM before trading oil and filter. And my filters seems to come with black orings. motorcraft is the only filters I've used so far.

F150Craig

On my first oil change, I could see that the oil was going to hit that sway bar and spray all over everything, so I held up the oil drain pan against the sway bar and angled it toward the Ford oil pan. Every bit of oil went into the drain pan, and I wiped off what was dripping on the sway bar. I may put a step stool under there to raise up the drain pan the next time, but this method seemed to work.

I removed the filter and housing first before draining and allowed it about 20 minutes before replacing the drain plug.

elptxjc

Looks like the 2.7 and 3.5 are different. Just got under my 3.5, and for starters, will have to remove TWO panels. The metal one at the front, to access the oil filter, which is a spin-on (not a cartridge), so no O-rings. And the black one behind it, to access the oil pan, which is metal on my new truck (thankfully). So apparently a 'normal' oil change. However, was getting ahead of my first oil change and ordering oil filter, crush washers, and a magnetic drain plug, and nobody lists a metal drain plug even of Ford parts websites. Will have to call a dealer and ask for them, and also for the specs (plug size and pitch), to be able to find a suitable magnetic plug, since no supplier (gold plug, etc) lists them either. Thx.

dalola

The 2.7 4x4 is about the easiest oil change ever! Barely need any tools, and no ramps.

A little never-seize on those undercover bolts makes them a bit easier on/off, especially with a battery powered driver. Cut the new tip off a caulking tube so the cut part is a bit wider than the stem, put it on the stem like a hat, the little o-ring slides right on. (put a little fresh oil on it first)

rngtrtl

As someone who just bought a 5.0 and did their first oil change over the weekend, none of this makes any sense to me. Any one got some pics for reference of what yall are talking about?

elptxjc

Our filters on 3.5 and 5.0s are spin-on, not cartridges within a housing, so much easier to change. And at least in my case, it's also a regular metal drain bolt, not a plastic one. Hey, do you have a metal drain plug too? If yes, do you happen to have the specs to order a magnetic one plus some crush washers? Thx.

rngtrtl

gotcha thx for the info, my 911 turbo uses that kind of cartridge filter and housing. Its makes for a really clean oil change on that car! They seem a little frail though for a truck :/ I do have a metal bolt, but I dont know the thread and pitch. It was 15mm though.