2016 HD Payload thread
Put my truck on a scale today and thought I'd share some information. This is for a supercrew XLT HD payload 4x4 2016 3.5EB 7850gvwr Total weight: 5340 lbs Front axle: 3080 lbs Nothing in the truck, mostly full 36 gal tank. (Payload sticker 2455) Going to start shopping for a topper soon - I hope they can match my green!
Has anyone leveled/lifted their HDPP truck? I'm thinking of getting an 8 foot bed HDPP truck, but in order to avoid it looking like the dachshund of the pickup world, it needs to be brought up a little bit.
I was thinking of using an add-a-leaf kit in the back and coilovers up front to get it about 2 inches higher all around.
I was thinking of using an add-a-leaf kit in the back and coilovers up front to get it about 2 inches higher all around.
Is maxing it out at the full 1200 considered an ok practice though?
I assume the bigger trucks like the SDs have a class V hitch then?
I'm not fully clear how the payload would come first though? 1,865 - 1,200 = 665 left over. My wife and I wet are 300 lbs total. That leaves 300 for other stuff which we don't have a lot of (anything we have could go in the RV).
I assume the bigger trucks like the SDs have a class V hitch then?
I'm not fully clear how the payload would come first though? 1,865 - 1,200 = 665 left over. My wife and I wet are 300 lbs total. That leaves 300 for other stuff which we don't have a lot of (anything we have could go in the RV).
And how do you plan to only get 11.5% on the hitch?
Dicussed in great detail on the Towing section of the forum.
Last edited by Ricktwuhk; Sep 20, 2016 at 07:40 PM.
Has anyone leveled/lifted their HDPP truck? I'm thinking of getting an 8 foot bed HDPP truck, but in order to avoid it looking like the dachshund of the pickup world, it needs to be brought up a little bit.
I was thinking of using an add-a-leaf kit in the back and coilovers up front to get it about 2 inches higher all around.
I was thinking of using an add-a-leaf kit in the back and coilovers up front to get it about 2 inches higher all around.
Adding a level raises the front of the truck, which is supposed to already be lower so when a load is applied, the truck naturally levels out. Then, to compensate for the level, airbags would be needed when towing or hauling. Lifting the truck then makes the XLT/XL 17" wheels or the 18" XLT/Lariat HDPP wheels look even smaller. Adding larger, heavier, load rated E tires and wheels would add a lot of weight, thus reducing the payload that the HDPP package created, and the larger tire diameter would reduce the mechanical efficiency of the truck.
It makes no sense to me...it would be like putting a lift or level on a farm tractor, lawn mower, or a combine. These machines and the HDPP F150 are all built for doing a job, and the appearance is secondary. HDPP trucks have their own rugged look already without modification and their appearance sets them apart from the grocery-getters and off-road posers, and with even more capability than many over-tuned 3/4 ton coal-rollers.
One buys a HDPP truck for it's capacities, and any lift or level reduces those capabilities.
Adding a level raises the front of the truck, which is supposed to already be lower so when a load is applied, the truck naturally levels out. Then, to compensate for the level, airbags would be needed when towing or hauling. Lifting the truck then makes the XLT/XL 17" wheels or the 18" XLT/Lariat HDPP wheels look even smaller. Adding larger, heavier, load rated E tires and wheels would add a lot of weight, thus reducing the payload that the HDPP package created, and the larger tire diameter would reduce the mechanical efficiency of the truck.
It makes no sense to me...it would be like putting a lift or level on a farm tractor, lawn mower, or a combine. These machines and the HDPP F150 are all built for doing a job, and the appearance is secondary. HDPP trucks have their own rugged look already without modification and their appearance sets them apart from the grocery-getters and off-road posers, and with even more capability than many over-tuned 3/4 ton coal-rollers.
Adding a level raises the front of the truck, which is supposed to already be lower so when a load is applied, the truck naturally levels out. Then, to compensate for the level, airbags would be needed when towing or hauling. Lifting the truck then makes the XLT/XL 17" wheels or the 18" XLT/Lariat HDPP wheels look even smaller. Adding larger, heavier, load rated E tires and wheels would add a lot of weight, thus reducing the payload that the HDPP package created, and the larger tire diameter would reduce the mechanical efficiency of the truck.
It makes no sense to me...it would be like putting a lift or level on a farm tractor, lawn mower, or a combine. These machines and the HDPP F150 are all built for doing a job, and the appearance is secondary. HDPP trucks have their own rugged look already without modification and their appearance sets them apart from the grocery-getters and off-road posers, and with even more capability than many over-tuned 3/4 ton coal-rollers.
I bought a HDP truck, yes for the extra payload. But I also want to get Stock size E rated tires and level the truck out and add in either airbags or a timbren kit.
My 2014 FX4 had a crappy payload of 1350 lbs - Pathetic. My new truck has 1000 lbs more payload. Adding on 100 lbs in tire weight and an extra 100 lbs in other optional gear certainly will not dimension the capabilities of the HDP truck. I still would have over 800 lbs of extra payload over my 2014. Much more than I need but have lots of play on loading up my truck for camping.
A truck with a "rake", or a higher rear than front when unloaded looks like a proper truck; ready and willing to accept the loads demanded of it. In my opinion a level kit on a real man's truck is like a lumberjack in Jimmy Choo high heels.
I guess that I am showing my age...but I have always liked thee look of a higher rear than front, all the way from Schwinn Sting-Ray and Raleigh Chopper bicycles, to Rat Fink art, to the all-purpose ladder-style rear leaf-spring shackles from J.C. Whitney everyone was bolting on their Fairlanes and Novas in the 1970's.
Last edited by Velosprout; Sep 20, 2016 at 10:14 PM.
I completely get that lifting/leveling an HDPP truck with spacers and a big rear block is silly and in some ways hobbles the truck, but that wasn't what I had in mind. I was inquiring about how adding an add-a-leaf kit, which would bring the rear up 1.5-2 inches, and some coilovers up front that are not maxed out for "leveling" but are set to provide the same lift as the extra leaf does? This would retain the factory rake within 0.5 inch, in the setup I am discussing.
I am looking to add a topper, bed rug, sleeping platform, shell-top cargo basket/rack system, and have a comfortable camping setup with ample room for gear, cooler(s), water, jerry cans, etc. I am not interested in "leveling" just lifting modestly.
Those seem like modifications that wouldn't detract from the capabilities of the truck, while also making the rather large Scab 8 foot bed HDPP body look more proportional. Is that thinking flawed somehow?
I am looking to add a topper, bed rug, sleeping platform, shell-top cargo basket/rack system, and have a comfortable camping setup with ample room for gear, cooler(s), water, jerry cans, etc. I am not interested in "leveling" just lifting modestly.
Those seem like modifications that wouldn't detract from the capabilities of the truck, while also making the rather large Scab 8 foot bed HDPP body look more proportional. Is that thinking flawed somehow?
Last edited by WasatchSkier; Sep 20, 2016 at 10:26 PM.
Sorry, should have stated if the squat is bringing the front end up after doing the level, then I would install the timbren kit or airbags. My trailer is only 5300 lbs max with tongue weight of around 800 lbs. Have not towed or hooked up the trailer to it yet.
New tires were installed yesterday and i have noticed an improvement in handling. I don't have the feeling I'm rocking around anymore or swaying and the ride is stiffer as noticed when you hit the bumps, as well the tires aren't squatting with some weight in the back like they were. I will post more as the weeks go on and I get to test them out some more. One thing I noticed at the tire shop was the difference in sidewall stiffness between the C and E rated tires, the C's were quite easy to bend and flex and I know it had to have an effect on ride. One thing I'm not sure about is how much air pressure to put in them, I have the heavy duty aluminum rims that from factory are supposed to be at 48 PSI with the C tires but I now have tires that will take 80 PSI so I picked 60 PSI to run in them and will let everyone know if the rims grenade on me. If someone else knows what I should or shouldn't do in respect to the PSI I would like your opinion. I would also really like to know what the thinking is from Ford as to why a HDPP truck has C rated tires when previous year trucks and even the current XL trim trucks are coming with E rated tires? I'm a little ticked off I guess that a $43,000 truck can't be outfitted properly when they had it right the first time. My advice to anyone purchasing a HDPP truck is agree on a price and then tell them you need proper tires upon delivery.
The E tires are much better than the originals, I could really feel the sway before and that is gone, the main issue I have now is how the front wheels feel like like they have a mind of their own following grooves in the road and wandering like you have worn steering components. I have played with the PSI to try and defeat that but it has made no difference and have been running them at 55 PSI for all tires. I plan on bringing the issue up to the dealer when it goes in for the first service.






