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I've try to spray the latch with no result, the mecanism that freeze on the the latch can be accessed without removing the door's trim and the latch...that's what I did
I solved my problem like this, since 3 weeks, we had a lot of low temp, this morning -20c the door is working perfectly.
My problem was that the door wouldn't latches (at not so low temp...-2c) and I used Fluid Film
Can you take a picture to show exactly which mechanism you're spraying lube on without having to remove the door trim and latch? Because I don't see how you can spray or access anything but the latch itself. Here's how my latch looked after spraying Fluid Film in every nook and cranny.
Can you take a picture to show exactly which mechanism you're spraying lube on without having to remove the door trim and latch? Because I don't see how you can spray or access anything but the latch itself. Here's how my latch looked after spraying Fluid Film in every nook and cranny.
When the door wouldn't close or latches it's because when you pull the door handle, the inside mechanism freeze open, it can't return
the only way to access this is to remove completely the latch, when removing this rubber, you can see a part of the latch
but it's not enough
trust me I did everything that I could before removing the trim, like I said since I did this my door is working perfectly
-20c, washed the truck two time, etc...
Had my first door latch freeze this morning. 18 Screw w/8k miles. Didn't freeze all summer, thought I was safe Heavy rain in Boston yesterday, 30 degree temps last night. Noticed my door was difficult to unlatch, got in, door bounced back open. Had to open garage and drag out a heat gun. Warmed up door latch, still wouldn't release. Cycled door locks with remote and the door latch was working again. Noticed the manual door lock wasn't all the way up or down until I cycled the locks.
It's at Ford now for the repair. Not sure what will come of it.
Well, picked up the truck. Odd. They didn't do the recall. They only worked on the driver door and replaced the entire latch assembly.
Had Thanksgiving over my brother's house yesterday. It was 20 degrees In Boston. When we left the house, the first left turn, my front passenger door flew open. My wife was panicking. I stopped, had her manually lock the door, then had to cycle the power door locks to get the latch to work again. Going to flip a coin to decide if I should go the WD-40 route or have the recall done on a second door.
I am, thankfully, one of the owners of a '15 that has not had a single hint of this problem.... and, yes, I know how lucky I am for that and am not marginalizing those that have suffered from this....
But, as an engineer and problem solver (Tim/SEATGURU and I worked with Ford Engineers directly to acknowledge and address the cooling seat issue, working with them to test and deploy the TSB... but only after I personally contacted the Ford CEO, Mark Fields !!.... when they were still totally ignoring the problem) I cannot help but feel that Ford has not discovered the ROOT CAUSE of this issue, much less corrected it.
I give great praise to all the members that have tried solutions on their own and shared them here but, given that my '15 came with the supposedly identical hardware and lubrication as everyone else has in theirs, it haunts me why some fail so markedly and others (like mine) have not a single issue. And yes, I live at 5,500 ft. in Prescott, not Phoenix, so we have our share of ice, snow and freezing (it is 32 degrees as I write this note) and, although my vehicles are garaged, they have sat out during snowstorms and had plenty of ice/moisture but never an issue!!
My SWAG as to the issue is that some vendors provided (and maybe still provide??) Ford latch parts that are slightly off spec that were intermixed with others that were up to spec (hence the seemingly random nature of the problem)....vs. it being a lubrication problem. At cold levels, metal changes (as did the O-rings on Challenger.... I worked at Houston as a rocket scientist...thankfully I was not there for that disaster that SHOULD have been avoided IMHO...smile) https://www.space.com/31732-space-sh...fographic.html and unless tolerances remain operational during extreme temperature shifts, unintended consequences occur. IMHO they need to put some of the failing latches "under a microscope" to see why and how they fail in certain vehicles and maybe track their manufacturing back to vendors to see if that could be the issue.... that is ONE path I would surely follow, if only to rule out that possible cause!!
As for me..... given that there is no sign I see that Ford HAS the root cause in sight, there is no way on this earth that I will let the "Recall" be performed on my latches..... "if it ain't broke, don't break it" has always been my motto..... smile....
So there, I shared my $ .02 worth on this saga...and thanks again to those that have valiantly attempted to fix the problem with their own solutions ..AZPLAT
Additional Comment..... As an aside, I have intentionally NOT used any additional lubricant of any sort on my latches.... still "as manufactured" in Dearborn.....AZPLAT
Last edited by AZPlatinumEB; 11-23-2018 at 10:07 AM.
what do you mean "have the recall done on a second door"?
The first time I brought it in for the recall, it was in for the whole day and they replaced the latch mechanism in the drivers door and performed the recall on the drivers door. They didn't perform the recall on the other 3 doors.
Mine is going back to the dealer, yet again, to demonstrate to them that the door lock rods with the bends in them that were installed during the recall has made it so the power locks are not strong enough to fully unlock the rear doors. The problem is intermittent and only seems to happen when the truck is cold. Once it has been running and warms up inside a little, it works ok, but unlocking never fully pops the locks up, and it has been that way since the recall was installed a long time ago.
The first time I brought it in for the recall, it was in for the whole day and they replaced the latch mechanism in the drivers door and performed the recall on the drivers door. They didn't perform the recall on the other 3 doors.
This should be addressed directly with the Service Manager. The recall clearly calls for all 4 doors to be repaired. Additionally, you should now request CSP 18N03 to be completed.
The dealer should not have closed the 17S33 recall if only the driver's door was repaired.
If you don't get any satisfaction with the Service Manager ask to speak with the GM.
When the door wouldn't close or latches it's because when you pull the door handle, the inside mechanism freeze open, it can't return
the only way to access this is to remove completely the latch, when removing this rubber, you can see a part of the latch
but it's not enough
trust me I did everything that I could before removing the trim, like I said since I did this my door is working perfectly
-20c, washed the truck two time, etc...
The black plug to the top and left of the latch needs removed also and lubricant needs sprayed in the hole liberally and at all angles. Make sure and use the red straw when doing this and insert it at least 2"-3".
Let me see......rule of thumb steel contracts at a rate of .001 diameter every 100*F change in temp. So the theory above is that the door latch linkage is contracting in temperatures below 32*F/0*C. Ummm? If that were the case then the fix could be as simple as replacing the mechanism but its an on going issue for over 3 years. I would think if it were a manufacturing tolerance issue it would have been resolved in the 3 year time span.
11-23-2018, 12:01 AM
Heavy rain in Boston yesterday, 30 degree temps last night. Noticed my door was difficult to unlatch, got in, door bounced back open. Had to open garage and drag out a heat gun. Warmed up door latch, still wouldn't release. Cycled door locks with remote and the door latch was working again. Noticed the manual door lock wasn't all the way up or down until I cycled the locks.
