Budocka

https://youtu.be/_qb5J3wMreA" target="_blank">https://youtu.be/_qb5J3wMreA

ARE Z Series topper glass automation

FYI:
Glass will not always open fully in cold weather (shocks wont push it up.)
Paid to tie shell lock into power locks. It was not worth the money when you install the actuators and tie in to tailgate release, because never need to use the latch/handle on glass to open it.
Had to upgrade to 50lb Shocks on glass.

To automate the glass.
1. I had to change out the glass struts to 50lb. So, the glass will not hold the tail gate from dropping. I ordered them from the dealer (Cost $50).
2. I purchased 2 actuators from Amazon. (CrazyforDeals™ Universal Car PowerDoor Lock Actuator 12-Volt Motor (2 Pack)). (Cost $10 prime)
Installation as follows.
1. I had to remove the channel cover. Two standard screws or 1/4" nutdriver.
2. Took actuator rod and made a "S" connection at the end with plyers to connect to the latch (photo below).
3. Located actuator where the plunger was fully extended. (I extended the length on the back strap to counter act the actuator pulling on the latch.)
4. Mounted actuators.
5. Repeated steps 1-4 for the other side.
6. Connect the wires together on the two actuators and confirmed polarity. Note: The actuators are reverse polarity. Which means if you give positive on one wire and negative on the other the plunger will move one direction but if you switch the wires the plunger will move the other direction.
7. Feed the two wired through the wire loom and down the stake channel in the truck.
8. Took the negative wire and grounded at the same location they grounded the topper.
9. I then removed the access panel on the tail gate. Located the harness for the button and locks. It was green with a white stripe at the actuator. Note: Please confirm it has been a while sense I did this mod.
10. I continued fishing the trigger wire (+12V) into the cap and located the GRN/WHT wire in the main harness on the driver’s door floor (tested with circuit safe test light).
11. I installed a relay to isolate the trigger wire from the actuator powerwire. Note: Grabbed power from the topper harness under the truck.
12. I drilled two holes in the channel cover for the actuator cylinder to allow the cover to sit flat.

If you don't want to go through all of this work. I'm pretty sure you can go to any car audio shop and have them installed for about $200. Plus, the cost ofthe struts.

lucas8888

Great work!

carrierj

Awesome job! I like to see these types of mods with unique and professional quality.

Metalpetrucci

Hi, new here... first post!
I know it's an old thread but just in case:
Just got a 2015 Lariat with only 27k miles on it. I was looking for adding a CX series shell but that mod really makes me want to go with the Z series!
For the wiring part, any reason not to tap the wires directly at the tailgate release actuator? Why running all the way back to driver floor harness?

This is a great mod. I'm surprised there isn't more talks about it.

Thanks!

Budocka

It is possible to directly connect into the release wire under the truck. I would not tap directly at the actuator because of the Molex plug you would have to run the wire through and it will prohibit gate removal. In addition, I'm was not sure of the circuit size (on the gate release) or the current draw from the after market actuators. So my preference was to relay isolate the new lock actuators from the factory wiring (most conservative). It was easy to locate the wire in the cab and I was not making a connection on the on the under carriage of the vehicle which would be subject to weather and corrosion.