Especial86

iTrader: (1)

Awesome info guys! Thanks!

I have a few more questions....

So let me get this straight.

If order up Anzo switchbacks and use them as they are shipped, all I have to do use 2 vampire clips to get the halos lit up and functioning? The blinker system for the halos in conjunction with the incandescent blinker bulb prevents hyper flash..
correct???

The problem with the anzos as is that their light output sucks with incandescent bulbs due to lack of lumens with the projector lens?
Is the incandescent bulb that ships with it really that bad? Is there a more powerful incandescent I can retrofit or get to fit?? Has anyone tried this? Maybe upgrade the harness to prevent melting?

So If I go with LED's or HID's I should basically expect poor rainy night performance? It's recommended I Run a better more yellow amber fog light to compensate?
Correct???

4x4LED's:
If I don't get forscan do you have a plug and play resistor that plugs in to the harness? Does this plug into the blinker bulb harness? Or the headlight harness to trick the halos from causing dashboard hyperflash??

Do These LED ballasts fail to turn on from time to time and basically just need a quick "voltage" kick in the pants? Is that what I'm gathering about the passenger side flickering tendency?

I'm pretty much all set with HID's, I would prefer LED's if I had to choose. But I honestly just don't want to be dealing with my headlights and troubleshooting problems again after this install.

So what's the best way to go here?
Thanks a lot for all the help!!!

230748

We offer CANBUS Resistors as an option. The CANBUS Resistors are for the LED Headlight Bulbs... the blinkers use Load Resistors, which tap into the factory wiring with the included T-Taps. You DO NOT need any resistors for the BUILT IN anzo switchback feature. ONLY if you add aftermarket LED Blinkers.

The CANBUS Anti-Flickers put a LOAD on the line (they are big resistors actually). This tricks your computer so it sees a load equiv. to the factory halogens.

HID and LED almost have the same installation issues, with the bulbs and wiring. Only HID require you to wire power from the battery, LED does not.

I prefer LED. It's easier to wire up as it doesn't require the direct-to-batter wiring. It's also a few less items. HID's have a ballast and an ignitor to wire in. And you can't touch the HID bulb and they take longer to warm up.

You get ABOUT the same output with a good LED kit over HID. HID is SLIGHTLY more (EVER SO SLIGHTLY) to the point where it's REALLY not as noticeable.

Especial86

iTrader: (1)

Ohh ok.. so the flickering headlight is basically an led consequence much like the hyperflash from led blinkers.. ?
So I definitely NEED to run the canbus anti flickers with LED's??
So I need to add those in with 2 sets of bulbs both high and low beam for best results?
So that's 2 canbus anti flicker sets?
Plus a load resistor for LED blinker bulbs.?

Thanks for the good breakdown on LED's
4x4truckled's!!
Any way you can PM some pricing on everything I'm going to need for the anzos?

230748

Yeah the flickering can happen with HID as well.

DEFINITELY is hard to say but it's a GOOD BET you may need them

The CANBUS Adapers (like Load Resistors) come as a pair.

Load Resistors are only needed for the front turns if you plan to replace your old turns for LED ones (and you're not using FORSCAN).

kyle stenger

Just an update I also posted in another thread. My auto stop start quit working, turns out it was my hids installed in my anzos..they draw to much juice, that it drained the battery just enough..yes they were high quality, and installed with proper wiring and relay direct to the battery

02fx4dude

35W or 55W HID?
Halogens are 55W/65W, so it doesn't make sense the HID's are pulling too much currrent to drain your battery. Something else is not right.

2016BoostedGreyGoose

iTrader: (1)

This!

kyle stenger

35w...I've been told by others on the forum that they use more than 35 when they fire up, running wattage is 35. But ya he tested with the fuse for the hids pulled, auto stop worked, fuse back in, didn't work. And yes they are installed properly, have had them in vehicles for years. So my halogens are back in everyday is working, now im wondering about using LED lol

02fx4dude

HID ballasts will have a brief inrush, actual time and peak will vary depending on the quality of the ballasts. I think the Morimoto 35W ballasts will pull 5A for about 0.5 sec at startup, not enough to significantly drain a battery. A 10,000uf anti-flicker cap probably pulls more than that, again for less than 1 second, depending on combined resistances of wiring and connectors.

FWIW, I run two 35W HID and two 55W halogens, all on relays, and don't have problems. And I know at least a few others are running HID's without problems.

2016BoostedGreyGoose

iTrader: (1)

Right, but since there is enough of a draw to kill the battery, it IS something else. The lights themselves pull no draw, so this leaves you with the ballasts, relays, and or possible wiring. A bad relay can and will do just this.....as will a defective ballast.