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Correct. The Morimotos will be better then factory but nowhere near the output of our XHP50. Our XHP50 are fantastic for fogs wheras the Morimoto have a clean look just not as much lumen... the darker lense on the Morimotos is mainly why folks buy them.
Ive been reading the light output of the morimos isnt that great...I currently have the stock halogen with an led bulb. Seems very bright so I want something equal if not better.
I just had the morimoto LED fogs delivered to my house and plan to install them when I get home from work. I had a set previously on my Tacoma and their output was great. However, on my f-150 I really just bought them to match the HIDs in my Anzos and to complete my all LED exterior lighting.
hey guys quick question on aiming/focusing the Anzo/4x4leds set up.
Would I be correct or incorrect in thinking/application that if I set up my truck with the stock headlights 25ft from a wall and mark the aim point/cut out. Then install the new housings and leds that I could line the new lights up with my previous marks and be good to go?
Or am I "underthinking" it? This will be the first time I will have replaced anything like this on a vehicle and have to worry about adjustments etc.
Also looking at the Anzo's it appears that there is only vertical adjustment for the hi and low beams but not vertical (or am I missing it)?
Before I take the front end apart and get fully into the install does those of you that have done this in the past see any issues with the way and location I Velcro'd the driver and canbus for the low beams?
Before I take the front end apart and get fully into the install does those of you that have done this in the past see any issues with the way and location I Velcro'd the driver and canbus for the low beams?
looks good. Maybe some more tape around connectors and butt splices should have heat shrink. You will also find that Tesa tape is 100 times better than electrical tape. But that's just me.
Yeah I'm gonna load it up with liquid tape but wanted to make sure the location was gonna work before I sealed it up for good...
Thx
Originally Posted by murdamechanik
looks good. Maybe some more tape around connectors and butt splices should have heat shrink. You will also find that Tesa tape is 100 times better than electrical tape. But that's just me.
Before I take the front end apart and get fully into the install does those of you that have done this in the past see any issues with the way and location I Velcro'd the driver and canbus for the low beams?
I started out doing the same placement and just put a strap of duct tape across the gap. But when I went to install the assembly it would not seat completely. Had to pull everything out of that cavity and let it hang. Seems like there is a lot of space in there but there a couple small things that prohibited that working for me. It might work for you as I see you don't have the resistors which I do.
I started out doing the same placement and just put a strap of duct tape across the gap. But when I went to install the assembly it would not seat completely. Had to pull everything out of that cavity and let it hang. Seems like there is a lot of space in there but there a couple small things that prohibited that working for me. It might work for you as I see you don't have the resistors which I do.
Looking at the pics I realized I didn't not take up my connections. Does a lot of water get back there? I really don't want to take everything apart again. I don't know about you guys but my fender flare clips would not come out. I ended up have to lift up and make the clips come off that way and then take them out of the trim piece and put them back in the fender flair.
05-05-2017, 06:09 PM
